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Thanks Jim. I was kind of wondering if, like Brandon said, we should just plan on the 110A alternators going out every 1 - 1 1/2 years for this reason.
Luckily they're easy to change. I just don't want one to go out at a really inconvenient time in a remote location. The warranty is only good if you can find a store with it in stock.
Your welcome Chris. Unfortunatly your right when things break down they always seem to do so at the worst possible time. A little of topic but years ago i had a 3000w 1947 military AC generator. The genreator to charge the battery (6V) had died and I couldn't find one any where. I used to jump it and then plug a 6 V battery charger into it and charge the battery from itself. I ended up buying a 6V alternator from JC Whitnety and having it altered so that it would charge at the 1000 rpm that it ran at!
Autozone's lifetime warranty is a JOKE. You spend a lifetime of labor replacing them every year! Starters and alternators are the worst thing they sell. I'd rather spend the extra money and do it right the first time! I have a 130amp alternator, and I"m going with a bigger one next time. My headlights dim at night when I've really got the stereo rockin, and the KC's on........that tells me it's working pretty hard even with the 130 amp. Now for the slight hi-jack lol.........is there any drawbacks of going with alot higher amperage one? Like say......a 180 amp? Too much?
I ask that Chris.....because in the next year or so, I plan on changing my front bumper out to a Road Armour type, with a integrated winch and a whole bunch more KC's......I'm even planning on getting the tire-gate type tailgate with KC's mounted on it also. A friend of mine is buying a tube bender soon, so we might be designing our own type of tailgate/spare carrier. But that's another hi-jack
I've always used the rule of thumb. Charge at 1/10 the CCA of the battery.. So if you are running (2) 600 CCA batteries, you'd need 120 amps to recharge. The 110 would be all right, but would be pushed a bit. This is of course assuming your specific gravity and such is where it should be.
I like your rule of thumb, will have to remember it.
the reason the remans won't go very far is because the reman people cut corners like the dickens. they basically vibrate the stator, look for shorts in the windings, electrical check the diodes and replace the brushes. sometimes they will clean the commutator with crocus cloth. I've never seen the bearings replaced, and only occasionally will they steam clean the whole assembly for that "just like new " look
I like your rule of thumb, will have to remember it.
the reason the remans won't go very far is because the reman people cut corners like the dickens. they basically vibrate the stator, look for shorts in the windings, electrical check the diodes and replace the brushes. sometimes they will clean the commutator with crocus cloth. I've never seen the bearings replaced, and only occasionally will they steam clean the whole assembly for that "just like new " look
How much did you expect for $29.95?
where do you find a reman for $29.95
local shop want $150 to rebuild mine
I've always used the rule of thumb. Charge at 1/10 the CCA of the battery.. So if you are running (2) 600 CCA batteries, you'd need 120 amps to recharge. The 110 would be all right, but would be pushed a bit. This is of course assuming your specific gravity and such is where it should be.
I've never heard that before. Is that for all vehicles of just diesels? I went out and checked and I have 850 cca batteries. I looked up the autozone alt for my wifes truck (150) and it's listed at 110 amps too.
Besides I thought the alternator was for running all the electrical gizmos when the engine was running in addition to charging the batteries.
Originally Posted by piotrsko
I like your rule of thumb, will have to remember it.
the reason the remans won't go very far is because the reman people cut corners like the dickens. they basically vibrate the stator, look for shorts in the windings, electrical check the diodes and replace the brushes. sometimes they will clean the commutator with crocus cloth. I've never seen the bearings replaced, and only occasionally will they steam clean the whole assembly for that "just like new " look
How much did you expect for $29.95?
I've always heard this too. I was just surprised at the difference in amps and wondered if it was a contributing factor.
You don't really want to know what I expect for $29.95
where do you find a reman for $29.95
local shop want $150 to rebuild mine
Ray, you will get an alternator worth $150 from your local rebuild shop. Don't equate them with the rebuilds that you get from auto parts stores. I won't buy one from a parts store unless I absolutely have to. My local shop puts in parts that are comparable to OEM or better. And they can build them to put out more amps up to a point. I would do the local shop rebuild and plan to run it as long or longer than the OEM but much longer than an auto parts store rebuild.
Chris, concerning amperage output, I am of the impression that more is always better. The voltage regulator will control the output from the alternator to cover what is needed. If the output isn't there to begin with, then the alternator has to work at full capacity more which will wear it out sooner. Plus if you add components that use electricity, then you will have some reserve capacity.
Ray, you will get an alternator worth $150 from your local rebuild shop. Don't equate them with the rebuilds that you get from auto parts stores. I won't buy one from a parts store unless I absolutely have to. My local shop puts in parts that are comparable to OEM or better. And they can build them to put out more amps up to a point. I would do the local shop rebuild and plan to run it as long or longer than the OEM but much longer than an auto parts store rebuild.
Chris, concerning amperage output, I am of the impression that more is always better. The voltage regulator will control the output from the alternator to cover what is needed. If the output isn't there to begin with, then the alternator has to work at full capacity more which will wear it out sooner. Plus if you add components that use electricity, then you will have some reserve capacity.
That makes sense Mark, thanks. And I agree with him Ray. Getting it rebuilt at a local shop that does all the work in house is the way to go. When mine started acting up the first time I needed to hook up to a 12K trailer and head to Lubbock, so I went with quick and easy. If you've got the time get a quality job done.
That makes sense Mark, thanks. And I agree with him Ray. Getting it rebuilt at a local shop that does all the work in house is the way to go. When mine started acting up the first time I needed to hook up to a 12K trailer and head to Lubbock, so I went with quick and easy. If you've got the time get a quality job done.
Can you get one from a local bone yard and have it rebuilt as a spare?
I've heard nothing but good things about the DB Ray. I thought about the junkyard & rebuild route Jim, but if the DB is as good as most people claim I may go that route since they're only $99. I was just trying to understand this amp thing before I made any decisions.
well I am a little late on the game with this one, but most all the questions have been answered. The only one that I didn't see was can you go to high of amperage, the answer is yes. You start pushing too much current though the stock wiring and it is going to melt. At what point is too much I don't know. I replaced mine with a 140A unit and have been really impressed so far. I bought mine from High Output Large Case Alternator Upgrade for Ford 7.3l, 6.0 & 6.5 Power Stroke Diesel