Alternator Trouble
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Alternator Trouble
Was headed to work today and noticed the voltage was running low. More accessories I turned on the lower it got. Got to work and it would not start. I had to get a jump a few days ago after pulling the camper to the lake with all the lights on. after that, I had the alt. checked and the batts too. all checked fine. but the alternator was not under a load when I had it tested. Now, Coming to worktoday, I noticed r the output on the neele was really low. Got to work and It would not start. I had the a/c running wide open. Hand came back up some when I turned the air off but is running lower than normal. reckon the brushes are bad? and does anyone know the dealer part Number for those and how much they may cost. I called autozone and advanced auto and they cannot get them.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
I don't think your alternator has brushes, but i am no expert... Take a digital volt meter and while the engine is idling, you should have around 14.3 volts at the batteries..Also check your battery connections.. tight and clean..
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Blairsville,Ga
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Our alternators have brushes. They're in the field circuit.
The brushes in the Ford 6G's are an integral part of the solid-state regulator circuit, so to replace the brushes, you have to replace the regulator.
The regulators are color-coded for each application, and Superduty's use the gray ones.
There's a guy on ebay currently selling regulators. Search:
ford 6g alternator
Then look down below for "ebay Stores" vendors. There's a bunch of them.
Remember, ours use the gray ones.
That will get you the brushes, but your problem may be more complex than just brushes, as they have a tendency to wear relatively-deep grooves in the commutator rings.
If you decide to attempt to replace the regulator, PM me and I'll give you some pointers, as well as the number of the rear bearing. It's kinda obscure, and somewhat difficult to find, but something you should consider changing while you're in there anyway.
Pop
The brushes in the Ford 6G's are an integral part of the solid-state regulator circuit, so to replace the brushes, you have to replace the regulator.
The regulators are color-coded for each application, and Superduty's use the gray ones.
There's a guy on ebay currently selling regulators. Search:
ford 6g alternator
Then look down below for "ebay Stores" vendors. There's a bunch of them.
Remember, ours use the gray ones.
That will get you the brushes, but your problem may be more complex than just brushes, as they have a tendency to wear relatively-deep grooves in the commutator rings.
If you decide to attempt to replace the regulator, PM me and I'll give you some pointers, as well as the number of the rear bearing. It's kinda obscure, and somewhat difficult to find, but something you should consider changing while you're in there anyway.
Pop
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
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Our alternators have brushes. They're in the field circuit.
The brushes in the Ford 6G's are an integral part of the solid-state regulator circuit, so to replace the brushes, you have to replace the regulator.
The regulators are color-coded for each application, and Superduty's use the gray ones.
The brushes in the Ford 6G's are an integral part of the solid-state regulator circuit, so to replace the brushes, you have to replace the regulator.
The regulators are color-coded for each application, and Superduty's use the gray ones.
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Senior User
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
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is this what I need????????? Can you get this from a dealer???????And does the pulley have to come off of these alternators to change the bushings? I know the old ones you did not have too. thanks
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Unfortunately, no I haven't. A review of their feedback wouldn't be a bad idea, though.
Here's a photo I have of the regulator alone:
It shows how the brushes are part of the regulator.
I suspect this is not a dealership item. The pulley doesn't have to come off to change this part, but it's not a job for someone with novice mechanical skills.
Do you have lots of specialized tools? A small puller will be necessary, along with a fair amount of patience.
Pop
Here's a photo I have of the regulator alone:
It shows how the brushes are part of the regulator.
I suspect this is not a dealership item. The pulley doesn't have to come off to change this part, but it's not a job for someone with novice mechanical skills.
Do you have lots of specialized tools? A small puller will be necessary, along with a fair amount of patience.
Pop
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
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Unfortunately, no I haven't. A review of their feedback wouldn't be a bad idea, though.
Here's a photo I have of the regulator alone:
It shows how the brushes are part of the regulator.
I suspect this is not a dealership item. The pulley doesn't have to come off to change this part, but it's not a job for someone with novice mechanical skills.
Do you have lots of specialized tools? A small puller will be necessary, along with a fair amount of patience.
Pop
Here's a photo I have of the regulator alone:
It shows how the brushes are part of the regulator.
I suspect this is not a dealership item. The pulley doesn't have to come off to change this part, but it's not a job for someone with novice mechanical skills.
Do you have lots of specialized tools? A small puller will be necessary, along with a fair amount of patience.
Pop
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Dunno. Didn't use one.
But I would think that some nylon thread would work well enough, but you really don't need anything. The regulator assembly is not part of the rear frame, but of the main body. The rear bearing is removed at the time of installation, and a new one pressed on the rotor shaft after the regulator has gone on. Then the rear frame is re-attached.
One more thing, there's a plastic bearing "sleeve" between the bearing and the rear frame that you DON'T want to mess up when you press it off and back on.
I think your biggest problem might be that you might find deep grooves worn in the commutator rings. That will complicate all this, and may cause the new brushes to break.
It may cause you to re-think rebuilding it, too.
Pop
But I would think that some nylon thread would work well enough, but you really don't need anything. The regulator assembly is not part of the rear frame, but of the main body. The rear bearing is removed at the time of installation, and a new one pressed on the rotor shaft after the regulator has gone on. Then the rear frame is re-attached.
One more thing, there's a plastic bearing "sleeve" between the bearing and the rear frame that you DON'T want to mess up when you press it off and back on.
I think your biggest problem might be that you might find deep grooves worn in the commutator rings. That will complicate all this, and may cause the new brushes to break.
It may cause you to re-think rebuilding it, too.
Pop
Snowboard season cometh..
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 1
From: Gulf Coast of Florida
Are you sure the fusible link wire is good? I had a short and that fried mine, but it would give you the same symptoms. Check my gallery for pics on the fusible link wire, and if it turns out you need some, let me know - i've got several feet leftover, and you only use 2 five inch pieces....
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Senior User
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we just checked it a few minutes ago after the jump. was charging from 12 to 13 and back for a few minutes. than, after turning on the lights and the a/c, it went down all the way to 9 and 10 and back and forth. reckon it is the bushings.??????????
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Bushings? There are no bushings in the charging system.
The "set" point is 14.4 volts for a SuperDuty alternator.
That means you should see that voltage on the alternator's output when it's outputting current. Kick the RPM up to at least 1500 to be sure.
You should be checking that voltage with a very accurate DVM (digital volt meter).
Pop
The "set" point is 14.4 volts for a SuperDuty alternator.
That means you should see that voltage on the alternator's output when it's outputting current. Kick the RPM up to at least 1500 to be sure.
You should be checking that voltage with a very accurate DVM (digital volt meter).
Pop
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 269
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Bushings? There are no bushings in the charging system.
The "set" point is 14.4 volts for a SuperDuty alternator.
That means you should see that voltage on the alternator's output when it's outputting current. Kick the RPM up to at least 1500 to be sure.
You should be checking that voltage with a very accurate DVM (digital volt meter).
Pop
The "set" point is 14.4 volts for a SuperDuty alternator.
That means you should see that voltage on the alternator's output when it's outputting current. Kick the RPM up to at least 1500 to be sure.
You should be checking that voltage with a very accurate DVM (digital volt meter).
Pop