replacing rod bolts.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 367
Likes: 1
From: denver
replacing rod bolts.
I have purchaced a junkyard 2001 explorer 5.0 w/130k miles that I am planning a mello, budget build for my 66 f100 with a ZF trans. I have it torn down, and everything is in great shape. Here is my planned recipe:
2001 GT40P 5.0 long block and intake except substitue cam, valvesprings, shorty headers and electronics (dist, and A9L ecu) from a 5.0 mustang. I plan rehoning the cylinders and buying a rering kit w/ 9.0:1 hyper pistons.
my biggest concern are the rod bolts. I see three options.
1.) cheapest route... reassemble the rods with the factory explorer rod bolts.
2.) not so cheap route... take the rods to a machine shop, and have new ARP bolts installed, and the big ends resized.
3.) What I would like to do... Install ARP bolts myself, check the big end for out of round, and install if they are "within tolerance"
Question is, is option #3 ok to do? what is the tolerance? what is the consequence of a changing the rod bolts without resizing? If option three is not OK, what about option #1 if the motor will not ever see 6000RPM?
Thanks for any advice or help!
-Dan
2001 GT40P 5.0 long block and intake except substitue cam, valvesprings, shorty headers and electronics (dist, and A9L ecu) from a 5.0 mustang. I plan rehoning the cylinders and buying a rering kit w/ 9.0:1 hyper pistons.
my biggest concern are the rod bolts. I see three options.
1.) cheapest route... reassemble the rods with the factory explorer rod bolts.
2.) not so cheap route... take the rods to a machine shop, and have new ARP bolts installed, and the big ends resized.
3.) What I would like to do... Install ARP bolts myself, check the big end for out of round, and install if they are "within tolerance"
Question is, is option #3 ok to do? what is the tolerance? what is the consequence of a changing the rod bolts without resizing? If option three is not OK, what about option #1 if the motor will not ever see 6000RPM?
Thanks for any advice or help!
-Dan
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,517
Likes: 2,826
Option 2. These let go, wrecks everything, even heads if you really bang it.
It will see 5500 plenty. Margins of safety are good.
As for the hone and re-ring--did you check your cylinder wear? Are you going to have too much clearance this way? Are you going to have even clearances cylinder to cylinder?
Besides, when it's rebored, they can hot tank the block and clean it up real nice....
It will see 5500 plenty. Margins of safety are good.
As for the hone and re-ring--did you check your cylinder wear? Are you going to have too much clearance this way? Are you going to have even clearances cylinder to cylinder?
Besides, when it's rebored, they can hot tank the block and clean it up real nice....
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
There are only 2 options when it comes to the rotating assembly IMO, leave it completely alone or have everything mic'd and ground/machined as necessary and install new bearing and/or bolts. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to measure the bearing surfaces for spec so if you have the tools there's no reason you can't do it yourself. But it's far better to know it's all good and get another 150k or more out of it than take a shortcut and have it spin a bearing 10k down the road.
BTW.. rod bolts probably are the weak link in this motor, but even those will handle the power this thing will make no problem.
BTW.. rod bolts probably are the weak link in this motor, but even those will handle the power this thing will make no problem.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 367
Likes: 1
From: denver
I am going with option #2 and getting the crank ground. how come my cheap little projects are never cheap?
I was tempted to get one of those fancy 347 stroker kits too! Thanks for the advice!!
I was tempted to get one of those fancy 347 stroker kits too! Thanks for the advice!!
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,517
Likes: 2,826
If it was me, and I was spending your money, I'd go for the 327 stroker (331 w/.030 over) This will add some torque and move the powerband down the rpm scale. Not as radical as the 347, no rod angle questions....
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
85e150 has really good advice... a 347 required that you use cap screw (high dollar) rods or notch the bottom of the piston bores. The 331.. not so much. Its more of a drop in rebuild, with better revving that the 347.
Id do a 351W and spend a grand on AL heads rather than a 1500 for a 347 kit and maching work to install.
Id do a 351W and spend a grand on AL heads rather than a 1500 for a 347 kit and maching work to install.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
7.3 PStroke
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
46
Aug 9, 2016 07:48 AM
F-250 restorer
Ford Truck Parts for Sale
0
Aug 7, 2016 07:39 PM
