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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Fuel filter

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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 02:40 PM
  #1  
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Fuel filter

I'm rebuilding a 94' F150 and have a leak in the inline fuel filter mounted on the frame rail. The Haynes book says to remove the 2 clips and simply pull the lines off. It Don't happen!

The clips slide over both the inlet and outlet of the filter and over the formed fuel lines of the truck. The clips simply pop off with a screwdriver but the lines won't disconnect. The parts stores say a special tool may be needed but the book say's no.

Question.....Do I need the tool or are the lines just frozen to the filter?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 03:24 PM
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Try this for starters.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...el-filter.html

Also do a search for your truck and fuel filter removal.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 03:53 PM
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Fuel filter

Thank's. I'm going to try two of the suggestions.....The WD40 and the "pull like hell" ones.

Jim
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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Before you damage the connectors by just yanking on them, you should get the tool to release the lines. Once you have the tool and are using it properly, then you can "pull like hell" but it probably won't take that much force once the retaining spring is released with the tool.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 07:26 PM
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Fuel filter

I appreciate the response. The Haynes book doesn't mention a tool for release but it makes sense to release the tension so the lines would slide back over the flare.

Is the tool I need the scissor type with different size ends mentioned in other responses?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 07:41 PM
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Yep, 1/4 and 5/16.
I have had very good luck with the metal scissor type.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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Yes you need a release tool on the 94 model to remove the filter, looks like it takes the 5/16" tool.

You can buy the whole set cheap, 5 - 6 sizes for 5-6 bucks. The scissor type is a pain to use from what I've heard but never tried it.

Get the plastic "clam shell" type set, work good. The set comes mounted on a black plastic stick and the individual sizes are on posts on that stick.

I can post a picture if you like.

They do make two different types of plastic "claim shell" line release tools. One's better "made", has a solid hinge pin with spring pivot point where it opens and another type thats just all plastic (the set on the stick). One is not really better then the other in use though.

The spring hinge type cost 6-8 bucks each last I bought one.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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danr1, I would appreciate it if you would post a link to a picture as I am trying to remove the fuel filter off my '95 and I bought a little plastic clam like thing that slips over the line but I can't seem for the life of me to get the thing off. So I would like to see would the tool you use looks like and how to use it. Mine looks very simple to use but maybe I am overlooking the very simple way to use it.

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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I have one of the spring hinged models but these work just as good as it does, you get the whole set for what one of the others cost.

This is the set I have/use looks like.

Amazon.com: Lisle 37000 Air Conditioning/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set: Automotive

Make sure you use the right one for the given line size or you will have problems getting it to work.

You have to force the fitting together tight, push in the tool, then pull the line off with a slight twisting motion.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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Oh and some have little metal fingers in the line as a lock instead of the round smooth spring.

If you force the tool in without forcing the fitting together tight first you tend to bend the little fingers making it almost impossible to release with the tool.

If that happens use a very small regular screw driver to release the line, Kinda like picking a lock, one finger at a time!
 
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Old Jun 1, 2008 | 10:16 PM
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Try a twist while your pulling, and I have found that if you take the nut off the bracket on the frame youll have plenty of line to play with. I want to trim the bolt off a little the next time I change mine just because I dont lke the LONG bolts.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by danr1
If you force the tool in without forcing the fitting together tight first you tend to bend the little fingers making it almost impossible to release with the tool
Which is one of the reasons I like the metal type better.

I have been able to help out friends several times with my metal one after they screwed theirs up using the cheap plastic ones.

But with either type, you should start out by pushing both the filter and the release tool back into the line coupler as far as possible before trying to pull just the filter out of the coupler.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 04:05 PM
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Yah, those plastic ones look about like the ones I got. I guess I will have to try it again, maybe I wasn't getting the clip closed all the way down and it wasn't pushing one of the little fingers, not allowing it to come undone. I'll also try twisting the line to see if that helps.

Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2008 | 04:53 PM
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I only had a problem with the little metal fingers once, had my boy helping me remove a tank and he had it hanging by the line trying to release it.
He had the fingers bit in tough so it took a little to get it to let go.

I've never had a problem with the cheap plastic tools, I push the connector together hard first to take the pressure off the retainer. If you do it that way right from the start they come right off.

Kids learn by doing, and by making mistakes. Once I explained what was going on he understood, that in of itself is progress!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2008 | 12:33 AM
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I have the cheap plastic set. It is sitting in my tool bin to never be used again. It never worked. I bought the metal set and with a little ratcheting was able to change my filter and pull 5 other tanks.

You usually get what you pay for.
 
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