Just curious as to how much one person can spend ona QUALITY sound system.

 

depends on what you want. stereos range from 60 bucks to 1000. depends on what you want. you can also get subs amps, cross-overs eq's tweeters, and a huge variety of speakers. i spent 430 bucks and i still want a sub and amp

 

ive spent 2700, but selling it for 2500 hundred.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Jul-02 AT 07:19 PM (EST)]man, How can you spend that much money?!!!!!!!!! Thats more than double what I bought my truck for. What all did you get. I know very little about speakers and stuff. What does ohm impedance mean? If a radio only puts out 50 watts, how in the world does a 100 watt speaker sound ok on it? thanks for the info
(sorry about it being banjopicker 66. I thought I was logged in on my account. Not dads.)
pianoman72

 

well i started working at a local audio store and desired some of the things there. i told myself all i would do was replace the factory radio with a good cd player and new door speakers. well i got carried away and spent 2000 more.
2 15" eclipes in custom ported box with amp rack
2200 Eclipse Digital Amp (hog) 1200 watts rms (one of the best amps available on earth)
5x7's in back 6.5s in front with kick panels, all top of line memphis audio
Viper security system with remote locks and backup battery
capacitor (damn those things are expensive)
400 watt eclipse for highs
pioneer premier 640 cd player (all the little cool movies)

i might have missed something but that burned a big hole in my pocket, im ditching probably the loudest and most clear system ive heard in my town for two kicker comp vr 10's.

 

a speaker that says can handle 100 watts max probably put out 50 watts RMS (continuous power) the speaker will probably never hit 100 watts. the amp says the same thing, 120 watts max 60 RMS (continuous power) that means that this amp and speaker combo would sound good and not blow the speaker. you can actually blow a speaker by not running enough power just as easy as blowing it with too much power.

 

I spent 600 on a good system. My friend was upgrading and he passed the savings on to me. I got my 180 dollar cd player for 100 bucks, two 10" boston accustics subs (850 RMS watts EACH) for only 300, and I got my amp for 150 new off ebay. My amp is pretty weak though I think it is 200 watts x1 but it runs those two 10s well. I think i'm going to step up on my amp though. I also have 60 dollar pioneer 6x8 speakers in the rear and the stock speakers in the front. So for 600 bucks I got a pretty decent system. I made my own custom speaker boxes that are sweet, and did all the wiring and installs myself.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Sunroof, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Superduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Top speed is 65mph, Go Baby Go!

 

The most i've ever seen spent on a system, was 50,000 dollars. Some guy on ebay claimed that that was what he spent, he had a lonnnng list of parts and they looked to be about that much. He had the whole pickup bed full of amps and subs with a cap on the top to keep em dry. The only thing is that i'm sure it gets pretty hot in there, it gets hot enough without the heat from all the amps and the subs.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Sunroof, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Superduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Top speed is 65mph, Go Baby Go!

 

there is a guy in my town that spent 20 thousand, he drives a exursion with 38" tires, he has 6 15's all jl, he has 1500 watts just running to his highs, the custom work probably cost 10,000 by itself. it sounds like a thunderstorm seriously.

 

>there is a guy in my town that spent 20 thousand, he drives
>a exursion with 38" tires, he has 6 15's all jl, he has 1500
>watts just running to his highs, the custom work probably
>cost 10,000 by itself. it sounds like a thunderstorm
>seriously.

Hmm..did this guy use up his tech job stock options on that thing?? :P

I must say that is some serious overkill...

I used to attend sound off's in the eighties, and some folks spent some serious bucks on stuff..

My favorite was a guy who took an old Monte Carlo, walled off the back seat and put (2) 18" Rockford subs, with (4) 15" ones above that...

He would put a quarter on the roof and it would juump a foot and a half in the air on a good bass hit..

He had to replace the back window with plexiglass, cause he shattered two of them previously...

Just a BIT too much :-)..

My nicest system cost me about $1300, with a Soundstream 5 channel amp, a Denon Head CD head unit, (4) 5.25 inch rockford mids, (4) rockford tweets, and (3) JL Dual voice coil 8" subs...

Sounded great in a Camaro....

I still have the Soundstream and am about to put it in my truck to go along with the Infinity 6.5" reference series seperates, and Kenwood Exelon cassette/changer controller, and 10 disc Kenwood changer.

Price tag for what I am gonna have, if bought today, around $1000...

Ronnie


1987 F150 Reg Cab, 302MFI, AOD, 3.55 Rear, K&N Filter
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=4972&.jpg

 

>a speaker that says can handle 100 watts max probably put
>out 50 watts RMS (continuous power) the speaker will
>probably never hit 100 watts. the amp says the same thing,
>120 watts max 60 RMS (continuous power) that means that this
>amp and speaker combo would sound good and not blow the
>speaker. you can actually blow a speaker by not running
>enough power just as easy as blowing it with too much power.

You might want to re-check your information.
RMS refers to an average power of an AC waveform. To get the RMS value you multiply the peak voltage by .636 (roughly).
As far as blowing a speaker with too little power, I highly doubt that could happen. The reason I say this is if this was the case than every time you turned your radio volume down you would blow a speaker. Since the volume control actually adjusts the Voltage going to the speaker. The resistance of the speaker will always stay pretty much the same (over time it can increase with age). So that said and using Ohms law for power in an AC circuit if the resistance stays the same and voltage increases than power will increase and if resistance stays the same and voltage decreases than power decreases. Therefore turning the volume control up will increase power and turning it down will decrease power. So I highly doubt that too little power will blow a speaker.
Russell
1968 F250 LWB 300-6
FORD=First on Race Day
MOPAR=Mostly Old Parts and Rust
GMC=Got a Mechanic Comming

 

Actually, 68f250 rbrendel is correct too little power will hurt a speaker, just as much as too much power will.

It happens when you drive a amp into distortion at which point it does what is called clipping, which is where the wave form of an AC signal goes to a flat line because it cannot go any higher since the amp is out of power. That in turn creates a dc signal which in time will quickly destroy a speaker.

As for the resistance of a speaker, it is almost constantly changing, for any give frequency a speaker will have a different impedance resulting in a different load the amplifier. That is why it is easier to blow a subwoofer with lower freq. than with highs, because at a high freq. the resistance to the power is much greater.

So you are correct in turning down your volume will hurt you speaker, in fact it will probaly save it. The problem comes from tring to get more power from an amp than it was made for.

That is why if you are looking for loud sound it is better to purchase amplifiers that can put out slightly more power than the speaker is advertised to handle, that way the speaker even not the amplifiers peak rating, but at the speakers peak rating it is always getting a good clean non-clipped signal.

Hope this helps

Brian

 

>It happens when you drive a amp into distortion at which
>point it does what is called clipping, which is where the
>wave form of an AC signal goes to a flat line because it
>cannot go any higher since the amp is out of power. That in
>turn creates a dc signal which in time will quickly destroy
>a speaker.
Let's use proper terms here. What you are talking about is called saturation. Saturation occurs in a PNP transistor when the base becomes so negative, with respect to the emmiter, that changes in the input signal are not reflected in the collector-current flow. As far as clipping the signal, amps come in 4 classes depending on how much they produce an output signal for any given input. Class "A" will conduct for 360 degrees of the input. This is most commonly used as audio and radio frequency amplifiers in radios, radar, and sound systems. Class "AB" will conduct for more than 180 degrees but less than 360. Common uses are push-pull amplifiers. Class "B" conducts for 180 degress of the input. Common uses are audio amplifier and sometimes as the driver and power stage of transmitters. Class "C" conducts for less than 180 degrees of the input. Common uses are as a radio frequency, RF, amplifier. The more an amplifier iproduces a signal identical to it's input, except in amplitude of course, the higher the fidelity of the amplifier. The less that an amp replicates it's input it will have higher efficiency. A good middle is desired.
Russell
1968 F250 LWB 300-6
FORD=First on Race Day
MOPAR=Mostly Old Parts and Rust
GMC=Got a Mechanic Comming

 

what about class d?

 

> As far as blowing a speaker with too little power, I
>highly doubt that could happen.

HA! i see it all the time man. We had one person buy 1 Comp vr 18. Max wattage is 2000. RMS is 1000. he ran a soundstream 600 watt amp to it. he came in a month later, he had been running this 600 watt amp and that day he had bought another 600. hooked it up and the speaker sounded like *****. im not the one who took it apart but i think there was something wrong with the driver. the whole store concluded that there wasnt enough power running. since the speaker was under warranty it got replaced. now we ask everybody what type amp they before we sell them speakers.