I am about to do a rebuild on my 93 idi I was originally going to add a turbo but I think it could go for a rebuild. I still dont have the engine out and this will take me awhile, but i want to build it to last for a long time. Obviously I haven't looked at the cylinder walls yet, but with cavitation being an issue should I have it bored and sleeved? If so, how much? Are there any bearings or other internal parts that ya'll can recomend that go above and beyond? Thanks for the help.

 

A bore and sleeve will run $80-100 per cylinder.

 

I'm not exactly pressed for time and ill save up the money while I work on it I will probably be able to have it completely built up by october i want to use my truck to do hot shot loads or car haulin. I don't, but lets assume I have the money.

 

Before I would sleeve a 7.3 I would find a 87 6.9 block and build it my 2 cents.

 

yeah I would find a good junk yard 6.9 block bore it a bit, not all the way to 7.3. If your 7.3 bores are in good enough shape you may be able to just hone and rering it but thats a long shot IMO. Are you wanting a preformance build or just miled enough for towing?

 

6.9 block, 86 or 87 year.

Magnaflux everything.
Mic everything else.

Minimum bore, .020 is the smallest oversized piston available.
Then you can do .030 or .040 later otr if you have to go that far first time.
I went .030 to get good clean cylinders.
Polish crank, line bore as required.
New cam and lifters.
All new bearings.
Slight porting if you want, port match the intake and exhaust at the least.

Use 7.3 rockers, and exhaust valves.
Sealed Power Hypereutectic stock pistons, milled .040".
I also used Sealed Power rings.
ARP head studs, the 220,000 PSI ones if they still have them, Summit Racing found mine.
Fel Pro gaskets.
ATS upgrade turbo with 3" down pipe as a minimum.
Intake manifold studs.
Exhaust manifold studs.
Permatex Copper Spray Gasket maker on the valley pan, both sides of the intake gasket portion.
Torque to double the torque specs.
Head studs to 7.3 turbo torque specs, installed at least five times to torque in steps and then removed before the final install to torque spec.
Moly assembly lube, very sparingly.
When the head gaskets are installed, the head and block deck will be oil free and make your eating plates look dirty.
I wiped everyting with acetone twice before the gaskets went on.
And the sealing surfaces were never touched with fingers.
Exhaust manifold, same treatment at intake manifold.
I will fing NAPA numers for exhaust gaskets that will be used to seal the exhaust manifold to the pipes, the stock setup won't handle the pressure when boost goes over 20 PSI.
Header wrap on everything exhaust you can get it around before the turbo and also on the downpipe.

DPS Stage 1 injectors
New DB2 -5069 IP if yours is an auto tranny
DB2 - 5070 if it is manual.

There is more, but that is enough to get you started.

 

DPS also can build high preformance IPs.

Hey Dave S. any pics of the DPS injectors? I want to see if the local injection shop can make something like that out of my old injectors if the guys I bought my ne junk ones from wont work with me.