Hi guys.
I've been going through this forum for a while looking for info and I figured I'd just ask about my situation.......

Here's the background. I have a 1986 F150 flareside with a 300 6, 4 sp manual tranny. I have NO idea what tranny it is nor what rearend the truck has. The engine is nearing the 275000 mark and it's tired. I just pulled a 73 351c 2barrel out of an old donor mustang. It had an automatic...

Now, I'm planning on doing a STOCK rebuild on the 351c( hone cylinders, re-ring, bearings, the works.) I do want to put in a mild cam since I've read that these years had lower comp ratios than others. I also plan on installing an Edelbrock Performer manifold with a 4 bl Holley carb. I will change rockers to roller type if need be but if it's not needed, I won't. I'm not looking for huge power, I have a 331ci fox body mustang with a good heads, cam, intake for that...... This is just a daily driver truck that I want a good engine for. I read a few threads ago that the Comp XE256 cam was a good one but the spec sheet on the website shows that it requires a new valvetrain, higher comp ratio, etc. Is this accurate? Is there a better cam lifter kit for my stock engine? I don't want to go into a new valvetrain setup for this. I'll eventually need help finding a 164 tooth flywheel for it but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Next thing is the distributor. My truck has electronic ignition with the dist. mounted controle module. Is there a dist that will fit the 351c that has the module mounted to it from a newer truck? Like one with a windsor? Thanks for any help and I look forward to knowing you guys!!

 

If you are keeping your stock pistons your compretion ratio will be somethinga round 8.6:1, not bad at all for a xe256h or even the xe262h, but instead of inserting sleeves on your cylinder walls to go back to the standard bore i would overbore to 0.030" to clean and smooth the cylinder walls and get new hyperautic 9.5:1 pistons. this would probably be even cheaper than the sleeves and get you better power and gas milleage. also, you just have to change you springs retainers locks and guide plates which is cheap and easy...Also get a new doble roller timming chain and remove the stock retarded crap...

 

You need to look at the heads and see if they have tennis ball sized exhaust ports (4V heads) or standard 2V heads. There were 3 versions of the 351C made by Ford in 1973. 2V (158hp) 4V-Cobra Jet (266hp) & 4V (163hp).

You said 2 barrel so I will assume you have the small port 2V heads, but anything could have been changed on a motor that old.

8.0 was the CR for 1973 for the 2V.

TRW (L2379) cast pistons (flat top) $312.00 - should give you a CR 9.2:1 with open chamber heads. I am not a fan of re-ringing a motor unless it was just rebuilt in the last year and had to be taken apart for some reason.

I would not worry about roller rockers unless you have a cam with a lot of lift.

The cam you have listed would be a good cam. You should replace your springs as they are almost 36 years old and if not running they have sat in one position for a long time. They are pretty cheap and spring failure can be pretty expensive.

Do pistons, cam, springs, and a good timing chain and you will be very happy with the motor. Should net you 250hp-280hp give or take with nothing special about the rebuild.

 

Thanks guys! Great tips..
So, if I go with new pistons, can I keep the stock rods? Would those TRW pistons play nice with that cam? Does anyone have an idea about the windsor dist. fitting the cleve.?

Sorry for all the questions... It's hard to find a good Cleveland knowledge base! Below is a link to my truck and a link to a cleveland with a Windsor type distributor!(Plus a nice build.....)

My 86 pickup
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3229/...bfc7f12e_b.jpg

What I want my Cleve to look like....
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3206/...1f130b18_o.jpg

 

One last thing, would that 351c go well with my 4spd OD manual transmission?

 

Yes but you need a flywheel for the 351.
-Johnboy

 

With 9.2:1 Static CR and am XE256 cam installed straight up, you should have a Dynamic CR of about 8.0:1. That should work well with open chamber heads. If you eliminate the EGR, make sure that you get the Ignition timing recurved to a '70 or '71 advance curve.