Experience with Comp XE262 cam
I have been thinking of using a Comp XE262 cam and wanted to know what people have used it think of this cam? I read some issues about valvetrain noise with when I googled it, but it seems to be related to other engines. With the fast ramp rates of this cam, is it hard on the valvetrain? Are roller rockers a good idea? And I am assuming stiffer valves springs would be needed as well? With the steep ramps are these cams durable or do they wear out quickly?
I plan to rebuild my entire engine, but right now I am just trying to figure out what parts to use as I save up for it. I will likely keep the stock 2V heads, but upgrade the pistons using the ones from TMI to bump the compression. I am looking to build a torquey engine with that will be able to motivate my 4000 lb car with gusto. My car is a weekend only machine and it sees mostly highway driving, so I'd like to keep highway gears in it for easy long distance cruising.
What I do know about the 400s and how to wake them up is to get a good timing set and set it straight up, bump compression with pistons, and get a good intake/carb and exhaust. Past that you can get some 4V 351C quench heads. Cam is dependent on what exactly you want it to do. For the trucks, most guys use a comp 252 or 260, with a summit racing 5200 being another popular option. But for a car, you may like something bigger.
The other guys will be along shortly. grab a notebook and pencil, your about to get educated....
72fordgts,
The extreme ramp rates are the reason I decided to go with a hydraulic roller cam instead of a flat tappet. Manufacturers are pushing the limits of ramp rates with traditional hydraulic flat tappets to try and out perform "the other guy". Wiped lobes, valve train noise, long term reliability - a lot of concerns really. A hydraulic roller - NO CONCERNS!!! Yes, the more aggressive ramp rates are hard on everything! New springs will be a must with that cam. Get a K-kit for all matched parts, you'll need a new timing chain anyway. Roller rockers are a very good idea. If you break your cam in properly, it SHOULD have a long service life. I really don't want to turn your project into a $5,000 build, but you might also consider some decent single groove keeper valves.
Rebuilds can get expensive quickly, but it sounds like you have a plan, so stick to that. There are many good builds done on a budget!
Sddl-up have you build a 400 with a roller cam? I am assuming this would require converting to adjustable rockers? If you have done this what cam and other parts did you use? I would actually prefer a roller cam, but I am thinking the cost is going to be sky high compared to a flat tappet cam. It also seems that most rollers are single pattern cams and I though these engines like dual pattern.
If anyone has used an XE262, I would still like to here how the cam is holding up, and whether or not they like it.
Thanks for all the help so far.
I am working on such a build right now. In fact, I just ahhh let's say "polished" the no.5 cam bearing journal to get it in the bearing and, hopefully, spinning freely this time. You do not need adjustable rocker arms really, they are nice, but not really necessary. You can get shim kits for the bolt-on roller rockers.
Other parts?
Pistons from Tim Meyer
Howards roller cam and lifters
Scorpion pedestal mount roller rocker arms
Crane billet timing chain
Lots of ARP bolts!
Comp springs, retainers and locks
Ferrea valves
MSD Pro Billet distributor & digital 6AL
Hooker Super Competition headers
Edelbrock Performer 400 intake
Ported factory heads
Durabond coated cam bearings
3/4 groove main bearings
Moroso oil restrictor kit, but drilled out to 3/32", not 1/16" as they come
Tim Meyer no.1 main bearing oiling modification
I'll start out with my stock oil pump and see what the pressure is like (ARP drive of course)
Probably a Quick Fuel 680 Black Diamond SS carb and probably Trick Flow pushrods (I need to assemble and check length first).
My build is very much like one "Silverstreak" did, also "278Broncos". Lots of others with pretty hot 400's, it seems if you're halfway serious about it, it isn't difficult to 325-350HP
Did I mention things can get expensive....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Quench
. If you haven't read this thread here, it's exactly what you're doing and what mistakes to avoid:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...part-deux.html
. I picked up this cam/lifters for my 400 build:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k5201
.
what cam did you select, if you don't mind me asking? I knew about the pedestal roller rockers, I just wasn't sure if they'd be strong enough for the valves springs a decent cam requires. They are a way easier option.
BuzzLol, thanks for the links, lots of good reading for me.
If anyone on here has any comments of a XE262, please let me know.
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From what I've heard - the Scorpion rockers are quite strong, and can handle lifts in excess of .600", not sure on exactly how much or what spring rate.
My cam is a Howards no. 233215-10, a retrofit roller with matching Howards lifters
Duration at .050" - 217/225
Lift - .571"/ .576"
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Still looking to hear from someone with a 400 and XE262 though...
A Summit Racing cam and lifter kit is $104 but you can get just about any hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifter set for right around $200. A roller cam alone will be more than that, $600 plus for cam and lifters. If you get a billet cam there is usually the added expense of a steel, bronze, or polymer distributor gear. My setup cost around $650 and it's not even a billet cam.
Doing research on lifter preload now.







