Whipple MIL Flickering?
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Elder User
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From: White Rock BC Canaduh
Whipple MIL Flickering?
Hi again Folks,
I never did get to the bottom of my original issue with the 2lbs boost max (((https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/700307-whipple-2300-f350-v10-only-2psi.html))) because of a family situation that tied me up for awhile.
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Whipple 2300 on a 2002 / F350 / V10. Still only getting 2lbs boost max
I recently moved the MIL to the top of my newly installed quad pillar pod and can now see that the MIL is constantly flickering (not flashing) at most all RPM ranges. It seems to stop flickering (SOMETIMES) at aprox: 2000 to 2300RPM but is pretty much flickering most all the time.
I had noticed the MIL flickering once in a while during night driving, but because the MIL was installed in a very bad possition it was even hard to see it during start up test process.
Bottom Line,,, The MIL flickers faintly, but noticeably...
Has anyone maybe seen this before or have an idea of what this flickering MIL might be trying to tell me?
Thanks Gentlemen...
.
I never did get to the bottom of my original issue with the 2lbs boost max (((https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/700307-whipple-2300-f350-v10-only-2psi.html))) because of a family situation that tied me up for awhile.
---------------------
Whipple 2300 on a 2002 / F350 / V10. Still only getting 2lbs boost max
I recently moved the MIL to the top of my newly installed quad pillar pod and can now see that the MIL is constantly flickering (not flashing) at most all RPM ranges. It seems to stop flickering (SOMETIMES) at aprox: 2000 to 2300RPM but is pretty much flickering most all the time.
I had noticed the MIL flickering once in a while during night driving, but because the MIL was installed in a very bad possition it was even hard to see it during start up test process.
Bottom Line,,, The MIL flickers faintly, but noticeably...
Has anyone maybe seen this before or have an idea of what this flickering MIL might be trying to tell me?
Thanks Gentlemen...
.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 784
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From: White Rock BC Canaduh
Herman,,,
I've been through the wiring a few times over the past few months the best I could and all seems ok to me?
It runs very smooth under all driving conditions. I can't say I've even felt it run rough at any temp.
Could a faulty COP or bad plug be causing an active misfire making the MIL flicker?
Could an active misfire be causing the max 2lbs boost problem I'm still having?
Thanks Herman.
I've been through the wiring a few times over the past few months the best I could and all seems ok to me?
It runs very smooth under all driving conditions. I can't say I've even felt it run rough at any temp.
Could a faulty COP or bad plug be causing an active misfire making the MIL flicker?
Could an active misfire be causing the max 2lbs boost problem I'm still having?
Thanks Herman.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: White Rock BC Canaduh
2002 V10 w/aprox: 58,000 miles / 93,000 km. I'm pretty sure the Truck has many more miles left in it before a rebuild would be required.
It runs good from idle through all the gears. It's just not getting the boost it should be getting.
It runs good from idle through all the gears. It's just not getting the boost it should be getting.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: White Rock BC Canaduh
My Bad,
I saw SC and I guess I read it as Super Crew / Super Duty.
There's around 20,000 to 23,000 miles on the blower with regular maintenance on it.
I saw SC and I guess I read it as Super Crew / Super Duty.
There's around 20,000 to 23,000 miles on the blower with regular maintenance on it.
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This is what I would do.
1) I dont know If whipple's have BOV's If it does I would replace it if its cheap (like under a 100 bucks.
2) Perform a Leak down test, or spray,with break cleaner, the vacuum lines and manifold gasket ad the Injectors were they meet the manifold (ma be a pinched injector Oring that has taken a while to show up.
3) Call Whipple and see if there are any seals or O'rings that go out frequently in these SC.
4) Bring it to a local performance shop and let the pros's look at it, it will cost a lot more but they would probably be able to figure it out.
Just remember though, I am not an expert at these things, But if I had your truck and as running into these problems that's what I would do.
1) I dont know If whipple's have BOV's If it does I would replace it if its cheap (like under a 100 bucks.
2) Perform a Leak down test, or spray,with break cleaner, the vacuum lines and manifold gasket ad the Injectors were they meet the manifold (ma be a pinched injector Oring that has taken a while to show up.
3) Call Whipple and see if there are any seals or O'rings that go out frequently in these SC.
4) Bring it to a local performance shop and let the pros's look at it, it will cost a lot more but they would probably be able to figure it out.
Just remember though, I am not an expert at these things, But if I had your truck and as running into these problems that's what I would do.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
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From: White Rock BC Canaduh
Flickering MIL additional info
I've spent the last couple evenings looking closer at the 'boost a pump' (NU Volts) fuel pump boost system cleaning the ground contact points and tracing the wiring while re-securing all the contact points and re-crimping the wiring.
Still getting the flickering MIL.
But I noticed some thing that I was not aware of before,,,
- At idle the MIL flickers.
- When I hit/rev the throttle the MIL does seems to go off momentarily.
But,,, if I raise and HOLD the RPM at around 2600 to 2800 the MIL does stop flickering. It seems to stay off as long as I hold the RPM at that range.
I thought I should mention that just in case it might help
Still getting the flickering MIL.
But I noticed some thing that I was not aware of before,,,
- At idle the MIL flickers.
- When I hit/rev the throttle the MIL does seems to go off momentarily.
But,,, if I raise and HOLD the RPM at around 2600 to 2800 the MIL does stop flickering. It seems to stay off as long as I hold the RPM at that range.
I thought I should mention that just in case it might help
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The thing is, the SC dosnt are about rich or lean (assuming the Whipple is similar to the kenne bell) There is no BOV that is controlled by an electric solenoid to dump the boost if there is a miss or a lean condition.
So the SC should be putting out the boost if the load and Rpm's are there it sould make the boost.
Personally I would bring it to a Dyno and see what the guy says thats running it, they would be able to figure it out after a pull or 2 they can read the AFR and what every cylinder is doing so they should be able to tell if there is a miss. and it only cost like a 100 bucks for me to do 3 pulls, just make sure to tell them to back off if they see any warning signs of engine failure, like lean conditions.
So the SC should be putting out the boost if the load and Rpm's are there it sould make the boost.
Personally I would bring it to a Dyno and see what the guy says thats running it, they would be able to figure it out after a pull or 2 they can read the AFR and what every cylinder is doing so they should be able to tell if there is a miss. and it only cost like a 100 bucks for me to do 3 pulls, just make sure to tell them to back off if they see any warning signs of engine failure, like lean conditions.
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My dealership has some hardware they can hook up which performs a 'relative power balance' test. It essentially graphs each cylinder's firing. You expect to see a pretty tight straight line. If a cycliner is misfiring you'll see one (or more) points significantly below the 'average'.
Getting this test would show you right away that you are or are not misfiring.
Getting this test would show you right away that you are or are not misfiring.
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Elder User
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From: White Rock BC Canaduh
I suppose I should look into getting the Truck plugged into a scanner to see if there's something obvious like a mis-fire.
The Dyno run is also a good idea. I would just need to confirm that they can run the tests with 38's because I have no stock tires or rims.
The Dyno run is also a good idea. I would just need to confirm that they can run the tests with 38's because I have no stock tires or rims.
My dealership has some hardware they can hook up which performs a 'relative power balance' test. It essentially graphs each cylinder's firing. You expect to see a pretty tight straight line. If a cycliner is misfiring you'll see one (or more) points significantly below the 'average'.
Getting this test would show you right away that you are or are not misfiring.
Getting this test would show you right away that you are or are not misfiring.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
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From: White Rock BC Canaduh
Last edited by _Rick_; Jun 7, 2008 at 04:27 PM. Reason: correction
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