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Don't worry about the tank, its poly-lined. Maybe add Diesel Kleen and fill it up. The turbo is what you should be concerned about, extended parking leads to sticking veins.
Don't worry about the tank, its poly-lined. Maybe add Diesel Kleen and fill it up. The turbo is what you should be concerned about, extended parking leads to sticking veins.
I keep Diesel Klleen in it, it's got 3/4 of a tank. I wasn't worried about the tank (Harpooned it last year). But letting diesel set in the rest of the fuel system can't be good .
My real problem is it's already been setting 1 week today and will set for at least 2 more, then I'll ask it to tow our 5th wheel to the mountain. Then back to sleep for 2 months.
Would you suggest opening the intake at the turbo and spraying WD40?
Maybe somebody will make a "How to Keep your 6.0 healthy in you only use once a month".
I've got 43K (hard miles) absolutely trouble free miles and now a few jerk speculators in "NEW YORK CITY" are messing with my retirement .
I've got 43K (hard miles) absolutely trouble free miles and now a few jerk speculators in "NEW YORK CITY" are messing with my retirement .
Thanks ab
It's going to go up a little more as I just heard of a nigerian attack on the oil pipeline there, so I'm sure tomorrow it's going to go up.
As to your original question, the absolute best thing is to take it out every once and a while and just drive it and enjoy it. I'm not a total big fan of WD40 as it washes off pretty easy. I would just once a week take it out and have a little fun and then put it back up. Just take a little 20 mile round trip somewhere and enjoy it.
Its the exhaust side that sticks, so unless you want to disconnect your downpipe, wd-40 won't do the trick. I agree with tex, take it out for a hard 15-20 min run once a week and that should keep the turbo gremlins at bay. You don't have to completely abandon it to save fuel costs. Also, don't worry about diesel sitting in the fuel system. Mine sat for a year after it was wrecked before I bought it and I've had zero fuel issues, just a stuck turbo.
When you guys say a good workout do you mean higher rpms or just freeway driving? I'm new to the 6.0. I like it sofar, but it dose seam more tempermental than my old 7.3.
Thanks
When you guys say a good workout do you mean higher rpms or just freeway driving? I'm new to the 6.0. I like it sofar, but it dose seam more tempermental than my old 7.3.
Thanks
take it out and warm it up good. then maybe romp on the throttle to loosen things up a bit. diesel tech told me i needed to do that from time to time. and it blows a hefty amount of smoke if you baby it too much (learned the hard way).
sitting too long is what ate my first turbo. it got less than 5k put on it between the time i bought it and getting home from iraq (dec 05 to jul 07), and it had sat for the most part since aug 05. half of those 5K were while i was home on leave for christmas when i bought it and mid tour. that couldn't have been good on it.
When you guys say a good workout do you mean higher rpms or just freeway driving?
Higher rpms on the tach(remember there is no redline on these engines) which translates into higher boost psi numbers which is want you want to help prevent sticking and to help prevent carbon build up(which goes into vanes sticking). Be sure to let it warm up to about 180 on the engine temp before you start to do that as with just the stock bolts on these engines and depending on how well they were installed, you could stretch them and lead to the infamous headgasket problems.
Originally Posted by ingman
I'm new to the 6.0. I like it sofar, but it dose seam more tempermental than my old 7.3.
Thanks
Two totally different animals in many ways and I think because of that had led to many to dislike the 6.0 even though it is far and away better then the 7.3 if you'r able to get one of the good ones and maintain it to higher standards. However, due to the epa mandated equipment(egr valve) it has required people to rethink how they handle the diesel engine(can't idle for long periods unless have a high idle circuit on there) and that has alot of history and pre-conceived notions that it has to break thru, not as easy as one would think.
You don't need to tap out the tach, just do a few hard accelerations to get the veins to cycle through there range a few times after its good and warmed up.
my truck has sat and sits a lot since i owned it.
it had to sit for 3 months while i saved up for a new FICM.
it also sat for 2 months when the shop took the top end apart/lifted the cab to install some new goodies.
i never did anything special to store it, and it always fired up when it was fixed.
i did change the oil though just to get fresh oil in it
On the tach, you don't see any red tick marks at all, unless my truck is missing them.
Cartmanea is right you don't have to tap out the tach, but you have to go above the suggested "keep below 2k on the tach for economy" range in order to have any effectiveness at all.
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