I have not seen any research yet that shows bio is nothing but beneficial. If anyone has anything to the contrary I would be interested in seeing it.

It depends on the year of your truck:

While most vehicles made after 1994 have fully synthetic fuel lines and seals, older engines need to be monitored. Biodiesel can have some methanol left in it from the production process, which uses sodium methoxide during the transesterification stage of the process. All the sodium is removed and only the methanol presents a problem if left in the fuel but levels are tested as part of the ASTM standards. Methanol will destroy rubber tubing and seals over time, so older engines without synthetic seals made from products like Viton, may need to have rubber parts in the fuel system replaced.

Will using BioWillie® impact my engine warranty?
Engine manufacturer warranties cover defects caused by material or workmanship, not fuel – whether petroleum diesel or biodiesel. The use of a particular fuel has no effect on the materials and workmanship warranty. Use of BioWillie does not void the warranty, as this is prohibited by the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. BioWillie premium biodiesel also is guaranteed to meet American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) D6751 specifications for biodiesel fuel bought and sold in the U.S.


Like I said, I have not seen any information that states bio is harmful in anyway to our engines, provided you are using a product that is guaranteed to meet ASTM D6751. Not to say you can't make a quality fuel in your garage, but that's a chance I am not ready to take (yet).

As a side note, I used B99.9 to remove the glue on the foil delete, and it worked like a champ!

 

I have been making and running my own fuel for the past 3 yrs (summer only don't have a shop I want ot keep heated during the winter) I am at 20% now and by mid june will be running 100% (we have still been getting some nights into the low 40s high 30s so can't make the switch totally yet) and my truck always runs better with it.

 

What's the benefit? Some say it is cetane and yet others say lubricity. Now, if bio can give me more mileage, I don't care whether it raises or lowers the cetane. So far, not a peep other than one guy who homebrews and actually posted mileage gains. Lubricity? All that silly study can show is it gives better lubricity. How much is needed? No idea. What is the point of diminishing returns? Again, no idea. So how is it beneficial?


Yes and no. MMWA doesn't say they cannot void your warranty if the fuel causes a problem. If I use a part that is aftermarket and it causes a problem, they can void the warranty. However, they cannot void the warranty just because I use an aftermarket part.

 

I know I get better mileage up until around 25% (not sure if your referring to me or not) it drops back down around 50% and seems to stay pretty constant until around 80% then MAYBE drops a little (about .5mpg below straight #2 and still above winter blend fuel) but like I said I do home brew, my current cost is still right close to 95cents/gallon so it could drop a lot and still be beneficial for me.

Edit to add: I don't know if it's actually beneficial but I don't see it being harmful to my engine. Each person has to decide for themselves what level if any they want to go with it. I know the victory is probably meaningless but I like the fact that every gallon I make and use is one less gallon not taxed, not profiting oil companies and not sending money to terrorist. Hollow or not it makes me feel good and I enjoy doing it like any other hobby may or may not be doing any good but it's fun and sure as heck isn't hurting anything.

 

I splash blended the bio so that I can keep the fuel constant and up to B40, I didn't see too much of a fluctuation. After B40, I could see 1-2 mpg drop on average.

As long as you do it right, I don't see it being harmful to the engine. As to beneficial, I haven't seen any results that prove it yet.

 

To each his own, for me the biggest benefit is its a sustainable resource and can end our dependance on foreign oil, it's better for my truck, it's it's better for the environment, and I will continue to use it. Others may not see the benefit or decide it's not worth it.

I encourage everyone to do the research and determine if running bio is for them!

 

Aklim and big poppa. As for the comment about o-ring problems I may be able to help out. I am the production manager at a large biodiesel production facility. My understanding is that older trucks (earlier 90's and older) used natural rubber or buna orings in the fuel system. I can tell you from experience that they will not hold up long to 100% biodiesel. Viton will, and it is also my understanding that the newer trucks all have Viton sealed fuel systems. So if you run a mid 90's or newer truck there should be no problem. The other posts about the scouring/cleaning properties of biodiesel are correct. It is one of the best solvent cleaning agents I have ever seen. My suggestion is that if you have an older truck with lots of miles, do not go bold and just start running 100%. start off with 20%. The fuel tank and lines are not the only thing that will get cleaned. The injector pump, combustion chamber and piston will be clean like new parts. But knocking all that old buildup loose at once is not a good idea.

 

I run vo year round and have for years. Bio should be better for your truck than vo.

 

I saw a post where someone questioned if more lubricity could be beneficial (as in how much is enough). How could it not be better? Lubricity combats the single biggest engine killer there is: Friction. Which causes the second biggest engine killer: Heat. And while several people have added the environment to their list of reasons to use biodiesel, I'm not sure everyone knows just how much better it is. The studies that helped form the RFS2 (Renewable Fuels Standard - Second Edition) finally convinced congress that the reduction in greenhouse gasses was 76% vs petroleum diesel. That's not a little better so the tree huggers will smile. That's seriously cleaner exhaust.

 

Welcome to FTE Billy. NIce to have someone with your experience here. Be sure and check out the biodiesel section we have here too. I'm sure you could offer some advice there too.

If you've got Buna or old o-rings, I wouldn't even run 20%. I tried B20 on an old farm tractor. Ran great, but when I parked it for the day, the o-ring on the water separator swelled and decided to leak out several gallons of fuel.

 

Actually, as it was recently brought to my attention, our fuel bowls have some nitrile seals in them. Of particular mention are the drain valve o-rings. I too, thought we were 100% biodiesel compatible until Bob from diesel orings.com corrected me in a thread. He carries the Viton o-rings in a fuel bowl kit to update our rigs. I have been running my own bio for the past 4 years/30k miles (at B70-B100), and luckily, have not yet had any leaks. I do plan on purchasing one of Bob's kits though to redo the fuel bowl seals.

 

at bursaw?

 

Until this last year my dad ran 100% bio in his late-99 and all our tractors and combines. The tractors had the hose from the auxiliary fuel tank deteriorate (simple fix) but he is over 200k on his 7.3 and no problems...in fact he has had less problems with his truck than I have with mine.

I have only ran probably 15 tanks of b100 and probably another 15 tanks of b20 and every time I have I got better mileage. The last tank of b100 I ran I got 22mpg (that was the first and last time I got that good of mileage and I think I had a pretty good tail wind).

My dad lost his WVO supply so he has not brewed any bio in 6 months. I did some tests with an anti-gel additive for #2 and got b100 to gel at 35 degrees and b50 with the additive to gel at 0 degrees. Straight b100 gels at about 43-45 degrees.