carb flooding
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Senior User
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carb flooding
Okay, so I drive the truck through town (5 miles) then get it out on the open road (15 miles) with 3 or 4 stopsigns/redlights along the way. I get to my shop and it cuts off as soon as I pull in to the parking lot. It seems like it's flooding and I don't know why. If I take the aircleaner off to help it get some air in there and let it sit for about 5 min it starts up but only runs for a couple before it shuts off again. Is the float stuck? What can I do to fix it so I can get it home?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Comox Valley, Canada
What kind of carb? How old is the carb? Has it been sitting along time between drives as in months?
If you are sure it is flooding......try tapping on the float bowl and see if the float unsticks.
You may also have something stuck in the needle and seat and thus allowing to much gas into the bowl. Would have to remove the top air horn assembly on the carb to clear it. No biggie but that depends on the carb type.
If you are sure it is flooding......try tapping on the float bowl and see if the float unsticks.
You may also have something stuck in the needle and seat and thus allowing to much gas into the bowl. Would have to remove the top air horn assembly on the carb to clear it. No biggie but that depends on the carb type.
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It's the original carb that came on the 1952 239s. When I looked it up on the computer, I found something saying it was a Holley. I'm new at these older trucks and extremely new at carburators. I'm saying that I think it's flooding because of the gas smell and the carb it wet. It has an electric fuel pump that the PO put on it and I haven't had any problems with it in the past month. I bought the truck and drove it every day for a month. I am in the military and was deployed for 5 months so the truck just sat in the driveway. My wife started it a few times while I was gone and let it run for 10 - 15 min. I got back a month ago and have drove it almost every day since. The problem never showed up until today. I really don't have hardley any experience with carbs so I've been reading every article on FTE and the internet that I can find.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Comox Valley, Canada
Ok I am not familiar with that type of carb....I was hoping it was a newer style....... but I would still try tapping on it to free the float......hopefully someone with more knowledge drops by.......
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
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From: Santa Clarita
It may not be the carb at all. Since it starts after sitting for while it may not be the float. Your coil could be starting to go as it heats up, and it could also be that your fuel pump is starting to go as it warms up. Both the ignition coil and fuel pump act this way. They'll work for a while and then die on you. To eliminate the fuel pump, put a fuel gauge on the line and see if you have constant pressure to the carb. With the coil, when it cuts off, pull a plug wire and see if you have spark while cranking it. If that checks out, I'd open the carb and see if there is something in the float needle or maybe a leaky float itself. A good clue that the float is sticking is a strong odor of gas coming from the engine area.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 907
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From: Kansas City, Mo
My Motor's Repair Manual say's 3 1/2 lbs max fuel pressure and many have said 2-3 is enough pressure. So what elect pump is there that puts out that little pressure unless there is a regulator in line between the elect fuel pump and the carb. To much fuel usually causes a fuel leak in the carb area. Doesn't seem like you could drive 15 miles, that's about a good warm up time/distance. I may want to check the coil. If it's on the top of the intake manifold, heat may be the answer. The coil elect leads need to be in the 5 & 7 o'clock mounting position. Last person gave method for coil over temp checking. When the coil becomes old they break down under heat. Most mount them on the firewall or other position for longer coil life. Have a great day,chuck
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Chuck's right about the regulator being needed, but it sounds like your truck was doing well enough without for quite a while. There are a few Carter electric pumps that are low enough without a reg, but they're pretty pricey.
I'd guess your float needle is stuck or rotten.
I'd guess your float needle is stuck or rotten.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
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This is ez! u have an electric fuel pump, so just turn the key to "on" so that the pump starts and look down the air horn for gas running down it.
Don't fear your little 2barrel, it's a breeze to rebuild.
Don't fear your little 2barrel, it's a breeze to rebuild.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 541
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From: Ardmore, TN / AL
I have just went through this. Rebuild the carb(you have too), make sure there is no trash in the tank, lines, filters, etc. and buy a good electric fuel pump (80-100). Make sure its not pumping too much PSI as stated before. I just rebuilt my first 4BL Edelbrock and I am a idiot, so I sure anyone can do it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
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seems like truck runs long enough to eliminate fuel pump. sounds like coil is culprit. it,s tired and not putting out enough juice on steady basis, then gets hot and pukes. you should still rebuild carb and make sure tank has no silt or rust that,s going through system. carb IS a simple project, don,t be intimidated. just make sure EVERYTHING is CLEAN!!!! good luck, pete
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I tapped on the float bowl and it must have worked. I've been driving it around with no problem. I don't think it was the coil since it was just replaced a couple weeks ago. It's running good now but I still would like to take a better look at it when the rebuild kit gets here.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,299
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From: NM
There is a tang on the back side of the float pivot that you adjust to limit the opening of the needle valve, so it won't be able to fall so far down it gets cocked and stuck open. Sounds like that's all you need to do.
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