351 Cleveland build
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351 Cleveland build
I am buying a stock 351 Cleveland, 2v heads where someone has installed a four barrel Holley carb and an aluminum intake. It has factory headers. I would like to increase the horse power and find out how to modify it for the oiling problem that these engines are known for, and do all the work before I install this engine. What do you suggest? Cam? If so, specifically what cam and what are the specs that would work best for everyday street and weekend strip driving? Is the stock cam good for this or is it a good idea to replace it? Open to any and all ideas. Thank you.
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if this is a whole buildup fro steet strip use i would raise my compression ratio with 10:1 forged 0 deck pistons 30 over, comp cam extreme energy xe274h, port a bit the stock heads on the exauhst side, get larger 2.19" intake valves, that manifold and probably a 700cfm carb will work and other extra goodies like roller rockers and stuff if money isnt an issue, also if you have an auto tranny some 3.70 gears and a 2500 stall converter would do the trick... this are my calculations for the build i recomended:
SCR: 10:1
DCR: 7.85:1
TORQUE:
349@2000
*373@2500
*435@4500
HP: 442@6000
SCR: 10:1
DCR: 7.85:1
TORQUE:
349@2000
*373@2500
*435@4500
HP: 442@6000
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,299
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From: The Vieux Ford, Kansas
The 2.19 valves are a waste on the 2V heads the port will not flow enough to use that much valve you need bigger exhaust valves more so than intake. I had 2.11 intake and 1.69 exhaust valves put in my 2Vs they are olds or buick 455 dont remember which and it took a lot of port work to even get it where that helped any on the flow bench. The weak link in the cleveland head has always been the exhaust side but if you are going for low end tourque I think the stock valves will probably serve you better than any thing. I wouldn't worry about the oiling system unless you plan on seeing more than 6000rpms, then you can restrict galleries or run an external line from the gallery that comes out of the block down by the oil filter back the the one on the top of the back of the block, you could also just run an accumulator the the gallery at the back of the block if it is a drag race type use where it only sees high rpms for short periods.
-Johnoby
-Johnoby
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Just minor mods for now, but I do plan on rebuilding it later if it runs the way I want it to.
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I am installing it into a 1991 Ford Ranger that currently has a 5.0. This is exactly the type of info I was hoping to get. This forum is great! Thank you.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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if this is a whole buildup fro steet strip use i would raise my compression ratio with 10:1 forged 0 deck pistons 30 over, comp cam extreme energy xe274h, port a bit the stock heads on the exauhst side, get larger 2.19" intake valves, that manifold and probably a 700cfm carb will work and other extra goodies like roller rockers and stuff if money isnt an issue, also if you have an auto tranny some 3.70 gears and a 2500 stall converter would do the trick... this are my calculations for the build i recomended:
SCR: 10:1
DCR: 7.85:1
TORQUE:
349@2000
*373@2500
*435@4500
HP: 442@6000
SCR: 10:1
DCR: 7.85:1
TORQUE:
349@2000
*373@2500
*435@4500
HP: 442@6000
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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The 2.19 valves are a waste on the 2V heads the port will not flow enough to use that much valve you need bigger exhaust valves more so than intake. I had 2.11 intake and 1.69 exhaust valves put in my 2Vs they are olds or buick 455 dont remember which and it took a lot of port work to even get it where that helped any on the flow bench. The weak link in the cleveland head has always been the exhaust side but if you are going for low end tourque I think the stock valves will probably serve you better than any thing. I wouldn't worry about the oiling system unless you plan on seeing more than 6000rpms, then you can restrict galleries or run an external line from the gallery that comes out of the block down by the oil filter back the the one on the top of the back of the block, you could also just run an accumulator the the gallery at the back of the block if it is a drag race type use where it only sees high rpms for short periods.
-Johnoby
-Johnoby
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I do think the intake 2.19 valve will benefit more tan a 2.04" but just about 10 final horse power, and yes you will have to port a bit but just a bit under your intake valve and then make seats for the new 2.19" but it will defenitivly benefite your cause, but as i sadi if you keeop your 2.04" intakes you wqill get....!!!!....!!!! 425 hp!!!!!!! almost the same, id still go with the 2.19" you will be changing your valves anyways.....also i made a thread where amazing 400 xperts like danlee and tim said these intake valves after a bit work could make some benefit to your stock 2v head.... anyways itso your choice to make and our opinions, good luck....
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 97
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I do think the intake 2.19 valve will benefit more tan a 2.04" but just about 10 final horse power, and yes you will have to port a bit but just a bit under your intake valve and then make seats for the new 2.19" but it will defenitivly benefite your cause, but as i sadi if you keeop your 2.04" intakes you wqill get....!!!!....!!!! 425 hp!!!!!!! almost the same, id still go with the 2.19" you will be changing your valves anyways.....also i made a thread where amazing 400 xperts like danlee and tim said these intake valves after a bit work could make some benefit to your stock 2v head.... anyways itso your choice to make and our opinions, good luck....
