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A few hours if you are just unplugging harnesses and plugging in new ones on he new engine, a few more hours if you have to swap over external stuff. This of course is assuming you have the proper tools, like support for the transaxle.
Usually the JDM engines are decent, but every now and then you get one that's garbage. Generally at 60k or less.
What kind of tools are needed for these things and are there kits for things like gaskets and what not? I've never replaced an engine before so I'll be doing it with my grandfather,he wants to do something together before I got to Ft. Bliss (supposedly). I figure this is something pretty good with fuel so high we cant go anywhere and do anything.
Heres the ones I'm looking at;
All on Evilbay:
290231147806 (Ends in 13 hours,Cutting close for certain reasons)
270237555829 (Most expensive,But "assured" it is a good engine)
310051339790 (Shipping might be an issue)
What do yall think?
I know I've asked about this before but 54!t keeps happening.
I got one from Japan(Presently in New Jersey),getting instructions on how to modify it for the vehicle,warranty with unlimited miles for 6 months. Talked to the guy,everything is going smoothly. My first transaction on evilbay and its going good so far. Only has 40K miles average. We'll see how it goes...
I know there is a big trade in JDM cars and engines around here, and there are several local companies that will handle the shipping for you and give you some kind of guarantee. Check around your area, as that might be the most trouble free route.
> bout how long would it take to do a complete engine replacement
20-30 hours for most people on a FWD car. It goes a lot quicker on some FWD vehicles if you can drop the subframe on the floor and lift the car body off/over it.
Camrys are nicely laid out and decent to work on.
Take digital pics of everything for reference.
We do 'em with a jackstand or other support under the body behind the front wheels.
An engine tilter is nice (cheap ones are OK) for manipulating the engine. Get a 3-foot piece of galvanized chain and a couple of hooks to go with it. We ****** the engines with an engine crane (cheap is OK, most are made offshore anyway) and support/manipulate the transaxle with a floor jack.
Be gentle with harness connectors. If you break a retaining latch, a fat blob of RTV on the outside holds things together well and peels off if necessary.
Gearwrenches are wonderful. Get a metric set.
If you can unbolt the air conditioner pump without disconnecting the lines you won't have to dump the system.
Penetrant is your friend. Drench old hardware thoroughly before unbolting, especially the exhaust pipe bolts. Use anti-seize when reassembling.
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