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Equal-i-zer install/noise
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 35
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From: Waukesha, WI
Equal-i-zer install/noise
Hi folks. I have a few questions regarding my Equal-i-zer setup and was hoping some of the others on here could help out. First off, I have a 28' Keystone Bobcat, 7,700 GVWR being pulled by a 2008 Ford Expedition EL. I purchased a 10k Equal-i-zer setup based on the recommendation of a local travel trailer dealer, and overall am very happy with it. We took it out for the first time this year for roughly 100 mile round trip.
One of the things I noticed was there was a large amount of clanking noise when making turns - specifically when quickly changing the pivot, such as a turn coming out of a parking lot or through an intersection. I did lube the bottom of the bars and this reduced it, but did not eliminate it; now it is mostly a "creaking" with the occasional clunk. I did hear someone else coming through the campground who had a similar creak, is this normal?
Also, during the intial setup I noticed the hitch head (containing the ball) connection to the shank does have some play. Not excessively loose, but enough where there is a bit of side-to-side. The bolts attaching to the shank have been tightened to 90 ft-lbs per the instructions. Just wondering if others who have the same hitch experience the same amount of play.
Thanks!
-Mike
2000 Mercury Mountaineer V6
2008 Ford Expedition EL XLT
2001 Keystone Bobcat 280BH
One of the things I noticed was there was a large amount of clanking noise when making turns - specifically when quickly changing the pivot, such as a turn coming out of a parking lot or through an intersection. I did lube the bottom of the bars and this reduced it, but did not eliminate it; now it is mostly a "creaking" with the occasional clunk. I did hear someone else coming through the campground who had a similar creak, is this normal?
Also, during the intial setup I noticed the hitch head (containing the ball) connection to the shank does have some play. Not excessively loose, but enough where there is a bit of side-to-side. The bolts attaching to the shank have been tightened to 90 ft-lbs per the instructions. Just wondering if others who have the same hitch experience the same amount of play.
Thanks!
-Mike
2000 Mercury Mountaineer V6
2008 Ford Expedition EL XLT
2001 Keystone Bobcat 280BH
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 291
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I have not picked up my TT yet and I have the same hitch but 12k. Pulling my boat with a different hitch which is 12 k with trailer, when I pull away there is a clunk.
If you are talking play around the hitch itself inside the square portion it is normal.
I think the creaking noise you are hearing the the ball rubbing the hitch. Some people use a waterproof grease for that. The clunking noise is the ball itself moving back and forth inside the hitch when you take off
Sounds like normal noise to me.
If you are talking play around the hitch itself inside the square portion it is normal.
I think the creaking noise you are hearing the the ball rubbing the hitch. Some people use a waterproof grease for that. The clunking noise is the ball itself moving back and forth inside the hitch when you take off
Sounds like normal noise to me.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
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I have the exact same hitch. On the Equalizer web site it says that type of noise is normal. If you take a close look you will see that you can grease the hitch in several areas that will decrease the nose. Go to the web site and buy there grease and it will quiet it down a little bit........
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 249
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From: South Alabama
The only play you should have in the hitch itself is where it inserts into the vehicle receiver. The portion where the ball mounts should be firmly attached to the shank. Some lube on the ball will also help with the wear issue. Insure the hitch height is ajusted properly to level the TT and the distribution bars are adjusted to keep your vehicle level. The head has some tilt available to fine tune this.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 35
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From: Waukesha, WI
Thanks to everyone for the replies.
I did pick up the equal-i-zer lube, as well as a survival kit containing additional latch pins, etc... I know how my luck is! I will try adding some of that lube to the ball as well to see if that reduces some of the noise.
Thanks again!
-Mike
2000 Mercury Mountaineer V6
2008 Ford Expedition EL XLT
2001 Keystone Bobcat 280BH
If you are talking play around the hitch itself inside the square portion it is normal.
I can confirm, I do have play between where the hitch head attaches to the shank, in addition to where it goes into the 2" receiver. There is a U-shaped piece welded to the hitch head with 2 holes that the bolts go through to attach to the shank. Even with the bolts tightened to 90 ft/lbs, this piece has some side to side play. I am going to double check the torque on those bolts, and if it still does not tighten up, I am going to contact equal-i-zer support.I did pick up the equal-i-zer lube, as well as a survival kit containing additional latch pins, etc... I know how my luck is! I will try adding some of that lube to the ball as well to see if that reduces some of the noise.
Insure the hitch height is ajusted properly to level the TT and the distribution bars are adjusted to keep your vehicle level.
With regards to the adjustment, I have about 1-3/4 sag in the rear, 1-1/4 in the front, using 8 washers and the recommended "5th hole from the top" on the L brackets. The instructions that came with my hitch state, "An ideal set up will have equal compression front to back. As a general rule, to be within 1” difference of compression between the front and rear of the tow vehicle is acceptable. Individualized adjustments can be made to achieve driver preference. (see adjustment info)" but the "current" instructions online state "In an ideal set-up, the front fender of the tow vehicle will settle (C) to about the same measurement or below when the vehicle was resting without a trailer.(A) The coupler or rear fender (C) will should settle higher than it did without weight distribution (B) but not higher than the tow vehicle alone (A)." For those who use this hitch, would you rather have a 2" rear drop and 1/2" front drop (like the new instrcutions) , or a drop like I have on my current install? (based on the old instructions) Pro's and con's of each?Thanks again!
-Mike
2000 Mercury Mountaineer V6
2008 Ford Expedition EL XLT
2001 Keystone Bobcat 280BH
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: High Point, NC
mjdoyle,
Welcome.
I have the Equalizer and love it functionally, but it does make some noise. One thing that I have discovered is that a lot of the noise comes from the ball itself. I've found that if I grease my ball, it makes it a lot quieter. A lot of folks lay a sheet of wax paper on the ball before hooking up and say it'll quiet it down with less mess. When you think about it, you have a metal to metal pivot point, it's gonna get noisy.
BTW - you should consider coming to the SD/Excursion Meet in July, in Gatlinburg, TN. I know it's a trek for you, but I bet a lot of X owners would love to check out your EL since it's the next logical alternative to the X. Com'on, join us!
- Mark
Welcome.
I have the Equalizer and love it functionally, but it does make some noise. One thing that I have discovered is that a lot of the noise comes from the ball itself. I've found that if I grease my ball, it makes it a lot quieter. A lot of folks lay a sheet of wax paper on the ball before hooking up and say it'll quiet it down with less mess. When you think about it, you have a metal to metal pivot point, it's gonna get noisy.
BTW - you should consider coming to the SD/Excursion Meet in July, in Gatlinburg, TN. I know it's a trek for you, but I bet a lot of X owners would love to check out your EL since it's the next logical alternative to the X. Com'on, join us!
- Mark
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 0
From: High Point, NC
There are no chains on the Equalizer hitch.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 35
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From: Waukesha, WI
Response from Equal-i-zer regarding the same question(s). Looks like the noise I am experiencing is normal (which I assumed... just wanted to confirm) but the head to the shank was undertightened. Off to northern tool to buy a H-D torque wrench, as mine only goes up to 90 ft-lbs. Unless there is anyone in the SE Wisconsin area who has one they wouldn't mind letting me borrow for about 10 minutes. 
In regards to the tightening of the head to the shank: When tightening the head to the shank there are two different torque ratings we use for the two different types of bolts we include in our hitch package. The two different types of bolts we offer are grade 5 and grade 8 bolts. If you are not familiar with how you can determine the grade and how we differentiate I believe the following explanation will be of good use to you. We determine the bolts in two ways: 1) The number of hash marks on the bolt head; a grade 5 bolt has 3 hash marks on the head and the grade 8 bolt has 5 hash marks on the head and 2) The color of the bolt; a grade 5 bolt is silver in color and have a threaded section that’s 4.5” long and the grade 8 bolt is gold in color with 5” in the threaded section. Until November of last year we were using the grade 5 bolts for the 6,000, 10,000 and 12,000 hitch, and the grade 8 for the 14,000 hitch. To simplify our inventory process in November we switched from grade 5 to grade 8’s across the board.
If you have the grade 5 bolt: The grade 5 bolt has a torque rating of 220lbs. This bolt will need to be tightened down, then using a rather large torque wrench to torque the bolt to 220lbs.
If you have the grade 8 bolt: The grade 8 bolt has a torque rating of 320lbs. This bolt will need to be tightened down, then using a rather large torque wrench to torque the bolt to 320lbs.
If you don’t have a large torque wrench most RV dealers will have access to one and will usually only charge you a small fee to seat the bolts for you to the proper torque. You’ll just want to take the hitch head and shank in to the dealership and they can take care of that for you. Call ahead to make sure.
In regards to noise reduction: First of all, it should be noted that just about every weight distribution and sway control hitch makes some amount of noise due to the high amounts of pressure and weight. Most people are not bothered by it, and say "That's how I know my hitch is working!" The Equal-i-zer is a friction-based hitch utilizing four positive friction areas to eliminate trailer sway: the rotational friction of the Arm Sockets pivoting during turns, and the linear friction of the Spring Arms sliding on the L-Brackets during turns. These surfaces are metal-on-metal, so it will naturally make some noise while giving superior sway control. It is normal for your hitch to make some noise. However, there are some things that can be done to reduce the noise.
New hitches should be allowed a break-in period, which involves more noise than usual. How long it takes a hitch to "break in" depends on the weights you are towing, how often you tow, how far you tow, and how frequently you make turns (as opposed to mostly straight driving on an interstate). The sockets will wear a rotational path under the Hitch Head as they rotate during turns. This may produce some small metal shavings (which is normal) until the sockets and head seat together in a smooth, shiny rotational path. After this break-in period, the noise should naturally be reduced. During this time and throughout the life of your hitch, it is good to lubricate the Hitch Head on the friction areas that contact each other, as described in the Maintenance section of your Installation Instructions. It not only helps to reduce the noise and flush out the metal shavings, but is essential to prolonging the life of your hitch. These two points of the 4-Point Sway Control are the most powerful for stopping sway, and also make more noise than the other two points (the L-Brackets).
Lubricating the friction surfaces on the L-Brackets and Spring Arms is optional to reduce some noise, but is not necessary for the proper function of the hitch. However, there are a few drawbacks to lubricating these optional areas. As you make turns, the grease will spread up and down these arms as they slide through the brackets. Not only does this make it messier when handling and storing the Spring Arms, this will also become a concern over time as the grease begins to collect dirt and road grit. If these areas are not regularly cleaned, the build-up of dirt may cause increased noise and wear. If you choose to lubricate the L-Brackets, then you should plan to clean them off regularly to prevent dirt from collecting.
We do have some plastic accessory items for reducing the noise in a much cleaner way (these items are also not necessary for the function of the hitch). These are called the Sway Bracket Jackets, and they are made of high-density polyethylene that is black in color. This has an embracing slide-on attachment method that does not require any drilling in your L-Brackets or any hardware, so you can easily attach them to and remove them from your current L-Brackets. These Sway Bracket Jackets are sold as a pair for $17.95 plus shipping. They can be purchased by calling our toll-free number listed below and asking for Customer Support, they can be purchased from our Online Store (Equal-i-zer Hitch Store: Sway Bracket Jacket (pair)), or you can request them through your local Equal-i-zer dealer.
Again, the Equal-i-zer Hitch is designed to benefit from the friction qualities of steel-on-steel for the 4-Point Sway Control system to be most effective. Changing the friction surfaces on the L-Brackets to steel-on-plastic does help reduce the noise, but that is because it is also reducing the friction. This in turn reduces the sway control, so it is a trade off for what is more important to you: maximum sway control or less noise. If you want the full benefit of steel-on-steel friction for maximizing sway control, it is better to let the Spring Arms contact the L-Brackets. But if you would rather sacrifice some friction normally used for sway control to instead reduce the noise, then using the Sway Bracket Jackets would help provide what you are looking for in a cleaner way (as compared to lubricating).
It should also be noted that you may hear one or two "bang" or "pop" sounds during slow turns. This comes from the bars shifting side-to-side as you turn. They will shift until contacting either the side of the L-Bracket or the L-Pin that secures the bars to the brackets, depending on which way you are turning. This sound will not be reduced or removed when using the Sway Bracket Jackets or when lubricating the L-Brackets. This is a normal sound for the hitch, and should not cause concern.
If you have the grade 5 bolt: The grade 5 bolt has a torque rating of 220lbs. This bolt will need to be tightened down, then using a rather large torque wrench to torque the bolt to 220lbs.
If you have the grade 8 bolt: The grade 8 bolt has a torque rating of 320lbs. This bolt will need to be tightened down, then using a rather large torque wrench to torque the bolt to 320lbs.
If you don’t have a large torque wrench most RV dealers will have access to one and will usually only charge you a small fee to seat the bolts for you to the proper torque. You’ll just want to take the hitch head and shank in to the dealership and they can take care of that for you. Call ahead to make sure.
In regards to noise reduction: First of all, it should be noted that just about every weight distribution and sway control hitch makes some amount of noise due to the high amounts of pressure and weight. Most people are not bothered by it, and say "That's how I know my hitch is working!" The Equal-i-zer is a friction-based hitch utilizing four positive friction areas to eliminate trailer sway: the rotational friction of the Arm Sockets pivoting during turns, and the linear friction of the Spring Arms sliding on the L-Brackets during turns. These surfaces are metal-on-metal, so it will naturally make some noise while giving superior sway control. It is normal for your hitch to make some noise. However, there are some things that can be done to reduce the noise.
New hitches should be allowed a break-in period, which involves more noise than usual. How long it takes a hitch to "break in" depends on the weights you are towing, how often you tow, how far you tow, and how frequently you make turns (as opposed to mostly straight driving on an interstate). The sockets will wear a rotational path under the Hitch Head as they rotate during turns. This may produce some small metal shavings (which is normal) until the sockets and head seat together in a smooth, shiny rotational path. After this break-in period, the noise should naturally be reduced. During this time and throughout the life of your hitch, it is good to lubricate the Hitch Head on the friction areas that contact each other, as described in the Maintenance section of your Installation Instructions. It not only helps to reduce the noise and flush out the metal shavings, but is essential to prolonging the life of your hitch. These two points of the 4-Point Sway Control are the most powerful for stopping sway, and also make more noise than the other two points (the L-Brackets).
Lubricating the friction surfaces on the L-Brackets and Spring Arms is optional to reduce some noise, but is not necessary for the proper function of the hitch. However, there are a few drawbacks to lubricating these optional areas. As you make turns, the grease will spread up and down these arms as they slide through the brackets. Not only does this make it messier when handling and storing the Spring Arms, this will also become a concern over time as the grease begins to collect dirt and road grit. If these areas are not regularly cleaned, the build-up of dirt may cause increased noise and wear. If you choose to lubricate the L-Brackets, then you should plan to clean them off regularly to prevent dirt from collecting.
We do have some plastic accessory items for reducing the noise in a much cleaner way (these items are also not necessary for the function of the hitch). These are called the Sway Bracket Jackets, and they are made of high-density polyethylene that is black in color. This has an embracing slide-on attachment method that does not require any drilling in your L-Brackets or any hardware, so you can easily attach them to and remove them from your current L-Brackets. These Sway Bracket Jackets are sold as a pair for $17.95 plus shipping. They can be purchased by calling our toll-free number listed below and asking for Customer Support, they can be purchased from our Online Store (Equal-i-zer Hitch Store: Sway Bracket Jacket (pair)), or you can request them through your local Equal-i-zer dealer.
Again, the Equal-i-zer Hitch is designed to benefit from the friction qualities of steel-on-steel for the 4-Point Sway Control system to be most effective. Changing the friction surfaces on the L-Brackets to steel-on-plastic does help reduce the noise, but that is because it is also reducing the friction. This in turn reduces the sway control, so it is a trade off for what is more important to you: maximum sway control or less noise. If you want the full benefit of steel-on-steel friction for maximizing sway control, it is better to let the Spring Arms contact the L-Brackets. But if you would rather sacrifice some friction normally used for sway control to instead reduce the noise, then using the Sway Bracket Jackets would help provide what you are looking for in a cleaner way (as compared to lubricating).
It should also be noted that you may hear one or two "bang" or "pop" sounds during slow turns. This comes from the bars shifting side-to-side as you turn. They will shift until contacting either the side of the L-Bracket or the L-Pin that secures the bars to the brackets, depending on which way you are turning. This sound will not be reduced or removed when using the Sway Bracket Jackets or when lubricating the L-Brackets. This is a normal sound for the hitch, and should not cause concern.