I had called MF about this very mod, but it was monday, and they were still coming back from the show in Tenn.. will call again..

sliding the tracks back to cause the lift sooner/drop later would be the right way.. (just takes a bigger washer to hide the elongated hole in the cab flange..)

Sam

 

Or maybe just modify/customize the bracket??

 

Damn and I just bought one of these kits. So much for an easy mod.
Dave

 

Yes the bracket can be mosdified also, but most people buy the chrome version. It would be a shame to ruin the shiney stuff! Jag

 

lucky for me I did not buy the chrome one

 

I bought the chrome set of course! I talked to MF and to CPP about this, and CPP agrees the only way to solve this is to adjust the bracket (specially on my painted hood)! MF sells an 11 bumper kit to replace the lacing strip to lift the hood a little, but at some point the hood lip will catgh on the bumpers like it does the lacing.

SO, that is one of my weekend tasks, adjust the tracks.

Interestingly, CPP said they hadn't heard about this problem directly from a customer til me! And want some pics. So I will do that too.

And talk my painter down off the ledge after I tell hm we have to reshoot the top edge of the cowl lip. He really hated the prior customer translucent corvette yellow, until he got into my green. Now everything he owns has a green covering!!

Sam

 

Thanks. let us know how it works out. and pictures of course
Dave

 

Sound's like a plan!!
Since it's a long weekend, might give you some time to look at it closer.
I hope you haven't exhausted any front-clip support rod adjustments, or the radiator support/air-deflector alignment issues. I 'm keeping in mind this is in finished paint, but also understanding that these can be very minor adjustments.
This has to be the most frustrating stage of assembly, after you have already fit everything, and there is some very minor annoyance!!

Just a couple of idea's...nylon woven tape for a seal at the cowl...very tough stuff, wear resistant...fade's well(..LoL..), several colors available at the local Pet-Smart....,
A custom guide, ..if that's what is "needed" , can be chromed,powder-coated etc,etc,..
The existing guide could be"tweaked" with a long-handled tube-bender,

Have a Great Weekend! Take your time looking at the different options , enjoy a few Frosties and don't settle for anything less than what you can live with!

 

sam, I bought a self adhesive hood cowl lacing from "steel rubber", It is pretty low profile and looks good. I'll try to post a pic. It is just visible at the top of pic.

 

Sam, let them know that I have seen a least 6 trucks with this same scrape in the same place. It is something that is inherent to the drivers's side. There must be a slightly different demension from one side to the other either on the cab or the hood. I suspect that there is a slightly longer lip on the driver's side of the hood

Wayne I really like the looks of that Ford engine. Jag

 

[quote=B/B ford;6184263]sam, I bought a self adhesive hood cowl lacing from "steel rubber", It is pretty low profile and looks good. I'll try to post a pic. It is just visible at the top of pic.


Hi Sam,
Maybe I'm a bit off topic but I'm building a reverse hoodsystem on my '56 combining the mid-fifty frame with the "no-limit" rolers and plates.I have it all ligned up but when I pull the hood forward the "c"-plates fall out of the rolers.Can you tell me the length of the tube that is welded to the pivotbar and on the other end is attached to the hinge on the hoodsupports.Hope you can tell me the measurements from the center of the pivotbar to the center of the hyme-joint.
Maybe you can send me a template(1:1)of the "c"plate that attaches to the hood and a template of the plate that goes onto the cab.(the one with with the "no limit" engraving).Here is my e-mail if you would be so kind to send me templates by mail: p_koppen@hotmail.com
By the way,I also have problems with the hood sticking behind the cowl-lacing but that is not my biggest problem.

Thanks Paul.

 

[quote=paulkoppen;7156688]sorry, a bit confused.

the MF reverse hood, depends on the big wire frame mounted on the body for hood lift and control (anti lift in the wind etc).
attached is a picture (not really good) of the MF body side guide (circled)
(yes, this particular shot shows the broken back mount of this one)..

on the MF kit, there IS a plate that covers the original hinge mount holes on the body, but it is just a plate.

sam

 

Paul, I have heard this same complaint from several people. Most opt to go to the brand with the steel ramp pictured. However, one ingenius fellow was able to adapt his unit with deeper rollers to keep things in place. Good luck, Jag

 

right there are two kits, they have reversed designs.

on the MF/ CPP kit, the roller is fixed on the hood, and the ramp is on the body. On the NoLimit kit its just the reverse.. roller fixed on the body and ramp on the hood.

it wil be hard to have no ramp and only rollers!..

sam

 

My plan was just to combine the two systems because I wanna get rid of those dirty holes left by the hinges and the "no-limit" billetplate just looks really cool.Also the wireframe on top of the fenders doesn't look quite neat to me.Maybe I can adjust the C-plates on the hood as "Jag-Red" says but that means that the rollers on the hingeplates stick out more to the front and that doesn't look realy nice either.
I thought that you had the "no-limit" system, Sam but now I see that it was a post from B/B Ford.I'll try to ask B/B the same question and will try to deepen the C-plates and if that doesn't work I'll have to change to the wire frames on the fenders.

Thanks guys

Paul.