I am using the MBB reverse tilt hood kit on my 55. It works great.

When we finished the hood, we welded a small round rod to the back edge of the hood to provide some stability... the rear edge we straightened.. so that there is a nice 90 degree corner off the hood

Hm.. when I open the hood, this back edge of the hood scrapes along the top of the cowl right at the drivers side edge.. last 4 inches before the old hinge mount. I have raised the hood track up about 3/8 in to line up the top edge of the hod with the cowl.. but this still scrapes..

Note that I have not put the cowl lacing gasket on yet. (how far over the edge does it go anyhow?) the one I have from MF seems about 5 inches too long on both sides..

Is there some other adjustment folks have done to get the back edge of the hood to rise faster, or did you turn the edge of the hood under a little? (roll it)

guidance welcomed.. I am out of town til friday, so can't try any cool ideas til then..

Sam

 

I had the same problem I ended up triming 1/4 off the back side however, I didn't tack braces on the underside of the hood, when I cut off the edge which was folded at a 90 degree angle the hood lodt the stability and the shape. I tacked pieces of metal under the hood later however, it still doesn't line up correct. When I get a chance I'm going to my Mother's house and get my fiberglass hood and see of it will work.

 

We had the same problem when I fitted my hood to the truck. I ended up using about 5 feet of black fuel line and slit it down the middle and lined the back edge of the hood with it. It prevents scraping and acts as a gasket also. My cab is fiberglass so I am not using the cowl lacing. Good luck.

 

The cab on the black 56 is fiberglass? it looks awsome

 

hm.. you actually put that on the hood itself.. interesting.. what did you glue it on with?

Sam

 

I will try to get a pic of it for you, but I used black RTV in minimum amounts. I have probably lifted the hood about 1000 times and its still holding.

 

I believe the size of the hose is 3/8 and being that its fuel line and not vacum line it grips better on the hood edge. You can see it when the hood closes but its looks like weatherstripping.

 

wonder how door edge bumper would work...

Sam

 

This is a common problem at that exact spot, but it can be fixed. (See below) As for the rubber seal, it is nailed or screwed across the middle of the hump over the firewall. You should have the original nail holes still there unless somebody welded them shut. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=38571&.jpg[/img] Unfortunately, the addition of the rubber seal will not affect this scraping problem. In my opinion, the addition of a rubber seal on the lip will not help either. Your paint will be gradually rubbed off and you will not be happy. So, I say you have two choices:

1. Bend the hood lip out toward the windshield by about 1/8"
2. Grind off about 1/8" of the hood lip so that it clears

Good luck, Jag

 

Thanks, a bunch of people looked at that truck at the nats and did not know it was glass. A few body guys and metal bangers did also. It was pricey but same me around 1 year to get to drive my truck.

 

I would try Jags points on a steel cab member mine is glass.

 

hm.. how about rolling it under (forward) instead of back?

this would remove the 1/8" amount and keep the edge strong..
altho I have the round support rod there..

Sam

 

Sam, I will say that the forward edge roll might work as well as my solution. However, the act of rolling the lip forward would need to push it almost flush with the underside of the hood to clear the hump. Also, I imagine that there may be some unforeseen problems caused as the edges on either side of that six inch rolled portion pull to the front. They may start scratching the hump as you roll the hood forward. So, as long as you go into the fix with your eyes open to the possibility of encountering additional collateral problems, I say go for it. I have never seen anybody do the forward edge roll, but it may work great. Let us know how you proceed. I'm sure many others will be looking for answers to this problem in years to come. Good luck, Jag

 

I have the different "No Limit" style and did not have that problem. I am wondering though, if the rail type guides could be recontoured to delay the vertical drop a bit longer to avoid hitting the hump? It is just a thought but seems like it would be easier than reshaping the back of the hood, especially on a painted truck.

 

That is a good point. Maybe the answer lies in the rails rather the hood. If the intire rail assembly were moved back 1/8", then the problem would probably be eliminated. To accomplish this, I suppose that both of the mounting holes for the rail could be elongated to give that extra 1/8" adjustment!! Give it try Sam, I like it. Jag

PS: As I recall, the rail has an elongated hole on the from bracket already, so if yours is made like mine, you would only need to make the back hole a little elongated.