1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

reverse tilt hood adjustment

  #31  
Old 02-18-2009, 02:32 PM
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[quote=B/B ford;6184263]sam, I bought a self adhesive hood cowl lacing from "steel rubber", It is pretty low profile and looks good. I'll try to post a pic. It is just visible at the top of pic.


Hi "B/B"
This is the same message I sent to Sam because I thought he had the "no-limit" system on his pickup but the message came from you so here is my question again.
Maybe I'm a bit off topic but I'm building a reverse hoodsystem on my '56 combining the mid-fifty frame with the "no-limit" rolers and plates.I have it all ligned up but when I pull the hood forward the "c"-plates fall out of the rolers.Can you tell me the length of the tube that is welded to the pivotbar and on the other end is attached to the hinge on the hoodsupports.Hope you can tell me the measurements from the center of the pivotbar to the center of the hyme-joint.
Maybe you can send me a template(1:1)of the "c"plate that attaches to the hood and a template of the plate that goes onto the cab.(the one with with the "no limit" engraving).Here is my e-mail if you would be so kind to send me templates by mail: p_koppen@hotmail.com
By the way,I also have problems with the hood sticking behind the cowl-lacing but that is not my biggest problem.

Thanks Paul.
 
  #32  
Old 02-18-2009, 03:27 PM
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Hi Paul, Give me a while and I will get the measurements your asking for. I hope!
I don't have any templates available but maybe you could get them from Rob at No Limit?

The system also has an adjustable stop so that you can set it to stop before it comes out of the guides. I'll try to get some pics also.
 
  #33  
Old 02-18-2009, 04:39 PM
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Paul, the measurement from the center of the pivot bar to center of upper heim joint is 6 3/4"

This shows the hood open to the stops.



This is where the support rests before pivoting up.



This is the pivot bar position when against the stops.

]

This is one of the "stop" adjustment bolts.



I hope this helps. If I mis-understood you and gave the wrong info just say so and I will try again.
 
  #34  
Old 02-18-2009, 04:49 PM
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Well. I am tickled that I don't have this problem on my 53. However, I want to point out to many on here that are probably unaware of Jags side adjustment bars for his hood. They show well in his picture. I stole the idea and used them to make a side to side adjustment at the rear corners of my hood. That Jag is one sharp guy. I am awaiting his move to Oklahoma Green Country one day. Joe
 
  #35  
Old 02-18-2009, 06:19 PM
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Joe, Thanks for the kind words. Necessity is the mother of invention. My hood fit was way off until I made those side adjusters. I think that some hoods spread more in the back than others when you try the forward tilt transition. Without the support of the rear hinges, they can just go *****-nilly and scratch the insides of the fenders.

California's going bancrupt and their only solution is to tax us! So, I may be moving to OK sooner than I thought. Or maybe Oregon, Penn, NM, NV, or anyplace else where They got Ford trucks and lower taxes. (OK sooner, get it?) Good luck, Jag
 
  #36  
Old 02-18-2009, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by B/B ford
I have the different "No Limit" style and did not have that problem. I am wondering though, if the rail type guides could be recontoured to delay the vertical drop a bit longer to avoid hitting the hump? It is just a thought but seems like it would be easier than reshaping the back of the hood, especially on a painted truck.
I agree...adjust the amount of lift in the guides.
 
  #37  
Old 02-18-2009, 09:46 PM
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Jag, I knew you were a natural for Sooner land. Joe
 
  #38  
Old 02-19-2009, 12:22 PM
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A picture tells a thousand words "B/B".Now I see that when the hood slides forward the pivotbar-arms are almost vertical when they rest against the adjustment-bolts. I thought that the arms had to lean more forward from keeping the hood sliding back.I'll adjust the stops so that the hood comes in the same position as in your pictures.I don't think that there is anything wrong with the "C plates" because they fit right into place.I've asked "no-limit" if they sell the plates separately but the answer was negative so I enlarged the picture of the plates on my computer and made my own template.
Start working on the hood tomorrow again with the help of your pictures and hope to make some improvements.
Thanks a lot for your help and I'll let you know how things work out!!!!

Paul.
 
  #39  
Old 02-22-2011, 07:06 PM
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Late to the thread...

Sorry to jump in so late in your ongoing thread, but I just installed my hood on my 56 and completely destroyed the paint on the top cowl. My hood is also catching like crazy on the new cowl lacing. Did you guys figure out the trick yet?

Also the front of my hood is too low and too far back. Any secrets on how to adjust it in both directions?? Thanks for any ideas!
 
  #40  
Old 02-22-2011, 08:45 PM
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I am working on moving the lacing to the hood. Have to repaint the cowl after we remove the screws from the lacing.

Sam
 
  #41  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:35 PM
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I put my lacing on the hood and it still scrapes. I think grinding off a bit of the lip might be the best option.
 
  #42  
Old 02-23-2011, 02:38 AM
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Hood adjustments always make for a great topic and a day of opening and closing the hood.
 
  #43  
Old 02-23-2011, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by carnut122
I put my lacing on the hood and it still scrapes. I think grinding off a bit of the lip might be the best option.
that is depressing news

Sam
 
  #44  
Old 02-23-2011, 05:04 PM
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I thought about moving the lacing to the cowl but then began worrying about weakening that part of the hood. Next thing will be a bend at that spot! If I can get the dang hood open again I will start with raising the guide rail first. I do need to raise the rear of the hood about 1/4" to match the cowl height. Then I will mess with the front of the hood - too low and too far back towards the windshield.
 
  #45  
Old 02-23-2011, 05:19 PM
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with the hood open 1/2 way (set on the ramps), adjust the front adjusters DOWN (shorten the length of the lift arm), this will make it closer to the front when down.

sam
 

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