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Hey folks, hoping for some words of wisdom from you folks that know more about diesels than I do I have a '94.5 Powerstroke, turbo 7.3L I've put about 1500 miles on it since I bought it (150k at the time) with no troubles. A couple weeks ago I put a K&N filter in it, but did not use any hand-held programmer. Not sure if it is related to the filter or just a coincidence, but lately the truck has stalled on me about 6-7 times while coming to a stop and ideling at stop signs/lights. It will start right back up, and if it appears to stutter again i apply the gas and get the rpm's up to about 1k and it stays running. And other times I can come to a stop and idel with no troubles...so its very random. My idel is about 600 rpms, which seems low to me. Other than that truck runs great, and it starts right up after the WTS light. I just towed my loaded car hauler this weekend and it did fine, save for the fact that it died on me 3 different times at lights.
Does this sound related to the K&N, do I have an idel sensor going bad, can I bump up the rpms somehow at idel to cure it, etc.....
maybe a bad CPS, maybe bad fuel pressure. get an appointment at dealer to have CPS recall performed.
check your fuel pressure. on the drivers side of the fuel filter housing, there is a tire pressure looking valve. take the cap off, and check pressure with n oil pressure gauge, and proper end.
FPR screen is located in the Fuel pressure regulator. The FPR is located on the drivers side of the filter bowl. You can take out the 2 bolts that hold it on and you will see the screen easily. You can also clean the screen from inside of the filter bowl but it is hard and you can't get it very clean that way. The FPR has o-rings that seal it so don't worry about getting a gasket.
K&N is frowned on very much around here. You need to get a 6637 from NAPA and either a 4" piece of exhaust pipe bent at 45* or a 3" 45* PVC fitting. You can also get a 45* 4" pipe directly from NAPA also (not sure on part #).
600 RPM sounds fine to me.
CPS is located on front of block by the crank. Easy to reach. Get a 10 mm deep well 1/4" drive socket and 1/4" ratchet works best, can also be done with 3/8" with a short extension. You will also need a screwdriver to pry the old one out.
The K&N drop in elements have been known to allow too much dust in and ruin the turbo blades. The pipes are to connect the 6637 air filter to the existing intake hose. Do a search here for 6637 and it should describe it very well. I would post up a pic but I can't access my pics at this computer
Ok, I see what it is. Knowing how CAI kits work on Mustangs, is this really something that I need to worry about on a truck that I am only going to be driving <5000 miles a year? I'm not looking to increase power, show off with increased turbo whine or anything like that, I just want a truck that is trust worthy, runs good (which it does), and gets me from point A to B when I decide to haul a load. If you are saying the K&N elements are bad, would it be sufficient just to go back to a replacement element in the stock box for all that I am using it for?
OK, just did a bunch more reading and perhaps this is the way to go. I'm also concerned that I oiled up my K&N too much. I'm assuming my truck has a MAF? If so, where is it located so I can get it cleaned up just in case some of the filter oil was sucked in.