welding problems
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Freshman User
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welding problems
Hey guys,I have a Hobart Handler 140 mig welder and am having problems with it blowing holes when I start the weld.I can make plug welds alright but I don't have any luck when I try to butt weld.I have been trying to do sheet metal repair and patch in some holes in really thin exhaust pipe.It's on an old cheby S10 that I bought for $250 to practice on so not too concerned right now.I'd feel bad if I treat my Ford the same way.I'm using 030 flux core wire and I'm on the lowest amp setting and wire speed is 4-5.If I buy the gas bottle and thinner wire will that solve my problem?I also heard that a 120V welder has a bigger inrush of current when starting the weld than a 220V machine.I don't know if thats true or not.
Also when butt welding sheet metal,do I make the pieces tight or do I leave a small gap between them?
Thanks in advance for your help,Frankbank
Also when butt welding sheet metal,do I make the pieces tight or do I leave a small gap between them?
Thanks in advance for your help,Frankbank
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
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From: iowa
I am no body man nor am I a welder (I can weld just not certified yadda yadda) but my step son is a professional welder, he has the hobart 175 (now been changed to the 187) I just bought the hobart handler 187 and he told me categorically do NOT run the flux core wire. first it tears of the liners on your welder (the inner part of the cable it runs through) I don't know how but that was from his experience with his. He also used his to do a bunch of rust repair on an old malibu he just restored and even though he does welding for a living every day he could NOT weld the sheet metal on his car without blowing holes using the flux core at all and once he switched to solid core wire and 75/25 gas no more problems.
Short version = get the bottle and solid core wire.
Short version = get the bottle and solid core wire.
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welding problems
rule of thumb for butt welds is your gap between metal is what ever size wire your using or slightly larger.i believe i'm running .032 or .036 in mne with a bottle set up. flux can be a real pain and exhaust tubing is kinda thin on top of that is it new pipe or old that you had to sand/clean up alittle. the other thing is are you tring to burn a solid bead or small tacks 1in and under? try the tacks if your not. the flux is course on the outside so over time and depending on wire size you abraid the inner liner which can be plastic or nylon. if your fixing rust thru you need to cut back to good solid metal. you coud go to and exhaust shop and look thru their scrap (ask first) for some practice pieces play with your welder a little more before spending $$$ to switch your set up. in the future i'd still switch but for right now try to master what you have it'll make it easier later on.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Llano and Huntsville, TX
+100000
the flux core isn't made for sheet metal. just buy or rent a bottle and have the welding shop fill it full with 75% argon 25% co2 (that is the regulator that came with the welder uses).
the 140 is a good welder, i have had it for over 2 years now and it has never failed me when it comes to welding. Well with out that flux core junk it has never failed me, only use that stuff outside when it is windy (if you dont stick weld first).
you'll be amazed the difference in welding setup if you go to a mig setup vs flux core. but just to make notice again the welder and the operator isn't the issue here it is the welding wire.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
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I had the same issues when I got my Miller 175. Flux core sux and I will never use it again. I can lay some pretty good beads with solid core and gas. Plus flux core makes a mess with all the spatter it creates.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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Great advice, all! 
Also, don't try to weld it all in one continuos weld. After you make your tack welds, skip around and don't try to weld more than 2"-3" at a time. Let it cool down between welds. That will help control distortion and prevent burn through from getting too hot.
BTW, welcome and thanks for joining us at FTE!
Also, don't try to weld it all in one continuos weld. After you make your tack welds, skip around and don't try to weld more than 2"-3" at a time. Let it cool down between welds. That will help control distortion and prevent burn through from getting too hot.BTW, welcome and thanks for joining us at FTE!
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Hey Frank, Yeah flux core is a little strong but you have to use a 0.25 wire and set your welder to the lowest setting possible for flux core. And yes practice on scrap first, the more you work at it the better u will get. I own a lyncoln mig 3200 HD and it pulls out 135 amps, using a 0.25 wire and set to the lowest for flux I was able to weld my 1977 GMC Pickup. The older the truck the easer it is to weld.
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Flux core works
Hey Frank Flux core is a little strong but u will have to use a 0.25 wire and set the welder at the lowest setting for flux. And yes practice on scrap first, the u do it the better u get. I own a Lyncoln mig 3200 HD it pulls out 135 amps and using .25 wire flux core i was able to weld my 1977 pickup.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Saskatoon
I used a CHEAP flux core welder to put on 2 quarters, inners, a floor pan and small pieces on a 74 Challenger - no problems. It definitely spatters a lot, but you can weld with it - just get it set right. Use a copper backing for anything you want filled. As for flux being better with thicker stuff, not in my experience. I actually went back to Oxy-Acetylene today when trying to weld up a engine test frame! The flux core wouldn't flow on the thicker stuff and spattered like crazy!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
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I have the Hobart 140 and love it. It works great on body panels, exhaust, etc. Get the thinner wire and the gas like others have said. Also, CLEAN the metal your welding. Trying to weld on rusty metal is a pain in the butt. It sparks and spatters everywhere, burns through, and you 'll never be happy with the results. If there is not enough metal in the exhaust pipe to clean and weld to, you need new pipe
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