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Why is it not welding properly, Help from the expert welders!!
I have a hobart MiG and I was welding with "GLASLESS FLUX-CORED WELDING WIRE .030. Ok. no problem.
Ran out of wire and decided to buy MIG SOLID WELDING WIRE .035. Someone said you could see the puddle better when you weld with this wire, which I noticed was true while I was welding.
The problem is, this wire was not welding the metal together. I made a pass, but I could pull the metal apart. The weld simply did not weld the metal together. I tried it on different sheets of metal. I even increase the voltage and wire speed, but nothing.
overkill I think you have the answear. Most units have a switch at or inside the back of the cab which reverses polarity. Also you need to use gas when welding with solid wire, and yes it is much easier to weld with solid wire and gas.
Mine has a horseshoe shaped plate inside near the wire spool that goes over 2 of 4 studs, to switch polarity you move the plate to the other 2 studs. Greg
sancochojoe,
The rest of the guys here are correct. You need to change the polarity.
On many of the smaller machines, there is no "adjustment" per se. You may have to physically switch the leed connections just inside the spool housing. You may see a + or a - next to the connection terminals.
Well guys, you had it on the money. I needed to change my polarity.
It does help to read the manual every once in awhile, which specified to change
the polarity when I switched from self shielded(electrode Negative) wire to Solid wire(electrode positive) with shielded gas. Thanks for raising my
awareness guys.
Well guys, you had it on the money. I needed to change my polarity.
It does help to read the manual every once in awhile, which specified to change
the polarity when I switched from self shielded(electrode Negative) wire to Solid wire(electrode positive) with shielded gas. Thanks for raising my
awareness guys.
It really should be the other way around..
electrode negative has the electrons flowing from negative to positive (ground), and this places most of the heat on the work. This is good for solid wire with gas. For flux core, you need MORE heat on the eletrode, so it is normally electrode Positive,
(ground negative) so the electrons flow from the work TO the electrode. At least this is the way my MIG welder works, and also my stick and TIG welder.
Miller calls electrode negative(- on the welder) Straight polarity, and electrode positive(+ on the welder) Reverse Polarity.
electrode negative has the electrons flowing from negative to positive (ground), and this places most of the heat on the work. This is good for solid wire with gas. For flux core, you need MORE heat on the eletrode, so it is normally electrode Positive,
(ground negative) so the electrons flow from the work TO the electrode. At least this is the way my MIG welder works, and also my stick and TIG welder.
Miller calls electrode negative(- on the welder) Straight polarity, and electrode positive(+ on the welder) Reverse Polarity.
Sam
He's got it right now. Electrode should be positive for solid mild steel wire, electrode negative for flux core. Also, a solid wire of the same diameter will require more current than a flux core. Flux core being hollow, you have less metal going into the puddle than if it's solid. Therefore, .023 solid and .030 flux core will require about the same current. Going from .030 flux to .035 solid is a BIG jump in current requirements. Didn't mention what size Hobart it is, but very few 115volt units will weld .035 solid wire. .030 solid, or .035 fluxcore are the practical limits. If it's a 220 unit, however, should do just fine.