292 Tune-up specs
Idle speed should be 500-550 in Neutral (stick or auto.) and for the automatic drive range: 475-525.
Timing: 6*
-"For altitude operation, and/or to obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy, the initial ignition timing may be advanced 5* over the 'normal' setting. No further improvement in engine performance or fuel economy will be achieved by advancing beyond this point. Advance the timing progressively until engine detonation (spark knock) is evident under actual road test acceleration. Retard the timing until the detonation (spark knock) is eliminated. If the individual requirements of the vehicle and/or the use of sub-standard fuels dictate, the initial timing may have to be retarded from the recommended settingto eliminate detonation (spark knock). If retiming is necessary, it should be done progressively and not to exceed 2* BTC." 1964 Shop Manual.
Valve lash;
Cold: Intake... 0.019
Exhaust... 0.019
Hot: Intake and Exhaust... 0.018
All out of the 1964 Shop manual...
Hope I've helped :-)
-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger
Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!
Timing: 6*
-"For altitude operation, and/or to obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy, the initial ignition timing may be advanced 5* over the 'normal' setting. No further improvement in engine performance or fuel economy will be achieved by advancing beyond this point. Advance the timing progressively until engine detonation (spark knock) is evident under actual road test acceleration. Retard the timing until the detonation (spark knock) is eliminated. If the individual requirements of the vehicle and/or the use of sub-standard fuels dictate, the initial timing may have to be retarded from the recommended settingto eliminate detonation (spark knock). If retiming is necessary, it should be done progressively and not to exceed 2* BTC." 1964 Shop Manual.
Valve lash;
Cold: Intake... 0.019
Exhaust... 0.019
Hot: Intake and Exhaust... 0.018
All out of the 1964 Shop manual...
Hope I've helped :-)
-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger
Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!
Welcome to FTE, bigd94. Perhaps you should take a look at the dates on the above posts...you're responding to a thread that's almost 9 years old. The user you responded to above hasn't even been on the site since 2001, I don't think you're going to get through to him now...
bgD94, if you have an Autolite 2V carb the least expensive place for rebuild kit is Autozone. $13.95 about 5 or 6 months ago.
More timing than specified in the manuals is better. 10 degrees initial is common. Also common, a distributor with worn components needing attention.
More timing than specified in the manuals is better. 10 degrees initial is common. Also common, a distributor with worn components needing attention.
My 292 has the #1 cylinder at TDC when the crankshaft mark and cam are twelve links between. All good. However, the timing marks are at about the 2 oclock position at TDC and the timing pointer is at about 11 oclock. That doesn't seem right. The only thing I can think of is that the pointer should be on the right side, it might be due to the timing cover being off a '62 engine and the main block being a 56?
I have the number one on the passenger side front. I have 12 pins in between the timing marks on the driver side, both at 3 o'clock. The timing pin is pointing toward 11 oclock and with the idler on, the timing marks are about 2 oclock for TDC. Maybe the idler is incorrect?
What is the idler?
If the damper is old, the damper ring has probably slipped. If you have a degree wheel and a dial indicator, you can find and mark the new tdc on the damper. If you don't have all of that just mark it and you'll be in the ball park. Or get a new or rebuilt damper.
If the damper is old, the damper ring has probably slipped. If you have a degree wheel and a dial indicator, you can find and mark the new tdc on the damper. If you don't have all of that just mark it and you'll be in the ball park. Or get a new or rebuilt damper.
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