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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Clutch release "chirping".......

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Old May 18, 2008 | 09:46 PM
  #16  
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[QUOTE=ArdWrknTrk;6168548] "camshaft"??

Sorry, I meant Crankshaft. I assume this will be ok, as the engine has been rebuilt.

I also assume the flywheel is in good shape.

Pilot bearing is new in the re-man longblock. The fork wasn't causing any problems before I swapped the engine.

Man, I really don't want to pull it down again.. I wish I could be sure it's not just the throwout spinning on the clutch fingers
True, you can't really tell anything until you get it apart. All really any of us can do is throw out possibilities, and probable causes.
 
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Old May 18, 2008 | 09:59 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer

I also assume the flywheel is in good shape.
Properly torqued new bolts, chased threads and Locktite.
IMG_1892 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
It looked good to me, no discoloration or anything...
As I said, I had no problems before the swap.



Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
True, you can't really tell anything until you get it apart. All really any of us can do is throw out possibilities, and probable causes.
Yes, I understand.
And I'd like to thank everyone for their replies.
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 01:02 PM
  #18  
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I've had the exact same problem on my truck. My solution was to hook a small spring between the bellhousing and clutch fork to keep a slight amount of pressure on the fork, silencing the squeak. The squeak is where the fork pivots on the ball. If you look closely at the fork with the engine running you will notice it wobbling. Not sure what the cause is, if its the throwout bearing of if the fingers on the pressure plate are warped, but its very annoying.
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 01:11 PM
  #19  
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Thanks Rowdy,

I know this, and that's why I said that I thought the purpose of the spring inside the slave cylinder was to preload the fork.
If you lube the ball (or "mushroom") it will go away....for a while.
So where did you hook the spring to on the bell housing?

Thanks again, and welcome to FTE!
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 02:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Ok, what do you mean by {replaced everything}???

There's less than 800 miles on the clutch, new slave etc..
when I did the clutch change, I replaced everything...I was going to replace the throw out bearing because the chirping drove me nuts too...but since I was under there, I replaced the whole package...
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 06:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Thanks Rowdy,

I know this, and that's why I said that I thought the purpose of the spring inside the slave cylinder was to preload the fork.
If you lube the ball (or "mushroom") it will go away....for a while.
So where did you hook the spring to on the bell housing?

Thanks again, and welcome to FTE!
I had to weld a nut to the clutch fork in order to have a decent place to hook the spring. The other end of the spring I beleive I hooked into one of the holes on the front edge of the bell housing, where the flywheel shield attaches. I tried everything...every kind of grease I could find, anti-sieze, you name it...but it was only temporary and the chirp always returned after a short time. The spring has worked for me. The only thing to be aware of:
I'm putting forward pressure on the fork. Too much spring pressure will push the slave piston back into the bore; so by the time the piston overcomes this extra distance it may not travel far enough to fully release the clutch. You don't need much pressure on the fork, just enough to stabilize it. I never tried experimenting with hooking the spring in the other direction.

I have no real answer to the origin of the problem...my guess is the fingers on the pressure plate are slightly out of alignment and cause the throwout bearing to wobble. I had the same problem on two of my trucks, one is a '84 with a 460 and 4 speed, the other is a '92 with a 7.3 diesel and a 5 speed.
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 06:26 PM
  #22  
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Rep for you.

I was thinking you were hooking to the back where it meets the gearbox.
This would keep it engaged (and I think) a much better condition....spinning constantly rather than accelerating from a standstill every time you pushed the clutch in.
 
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Old May 19, 2008 | 07:54 PM
  #23  
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Spinning constantly will wear out the bearing in no time. Same thing with riding around with your foot on the clutch all the time.

Either one is not a good idea.

Find out what is causing the chirp and fix it. Don't just stick a band aid on it.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 10:05 PM
  #24  
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Well, I thought I'd revisit this thread to say I've resolved the problem.

A month ago I bought a new clutch fork from Ed Olsen (partsguyed) here on FTE and after changing it out I no longer have that maddening noise.

Thanks to everyone for their advice and especially to Bill (numberdummy) and Ed for tracking it down for me.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 10:27 AM
  #25  
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When you replaced the pilot bearing, was it an actual bearing or an oilite bushing? If it was a bearing, it should have been packed with grease upon installation. If it was a bushing, it is recommended that you soak them in oil for awhile before you install them. In either case, if they are dry they will be noisy. Even slight pressure on the clutch pedal may change this noise.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 11:46 AM
  #26  
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Bearing.
Yes, I have a bearing packer. Used some red Chevron NLG2 grease.

I always oil those sintered bronze bushings. Do you have a recommendation as to exactly which oil to soak them in?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 12:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by FESuperDuty
When you replaced the pilot bearing, was it an actual bearing or an oilite bushing? If it was a bearing, it should have been packed with grease upon installation. If it was a bushing, it is recommended that you soak them in oil for awhile before you install them. In either case, if they are dry they will be noisy. Even slight pressure on the clutch pedal may change this noise.
That is incorrect ... A pilot bearing/bushing will make NO NOISE until the clutch is disengaged and the transmission input shaft is no longer turning the same RPM the engine is turning!

The only time a pilot bearing/bushing is used as a bearing is when the clutch is disengaged and the engine and transmission input shaft are not turning at the same RPM, when the clutch is engaged the pilot bearing is nothing more than a alignment bushing!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 02:53 AM
  #28  
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I had the same problem with a noisy throwout bearing. It turned out to be that flat U shaped spring in the clutch fork that engages the mushroom shaped thing that the clutch fork pivots on. That spring looked like it was okay. A closer look revealed that it was actually broken. The spring tension wasn't too good either. I replaced the clutch fork, and it worked fine. I hope you get to the bottom of this. Best of luck to you.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2009 | 05:47 AM
  #29  
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Thank you Paulz,
I did replace the fork (post 24), and that did fix it.
Still wonder why I had no issue before I replaced EVERYTHING in front of it.???

When I swapped it out I noticed a tiny bit of wear on the face that engages the bearing but the spring seemed fine. I needed to use a pry bar to overcome spring pressure and get it off the mushroom pivot.
 
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