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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

code 45 plus slow clutch pedal return

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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 09:08 AM
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Question code 45 plus slow clutch pedal return

1988 f150 302 v8 check engine light came on so I checked the codes and I'm getting a code 45 therm air pump pumping upstream. What could cause this code because I'm stummped. No vac leaks and everything is hooked up. Next question, this one has everyone I ask stumped. We put a new clutch assem in my truck and about 2mnths later went and pushed the clutch pedal in and pedal went to the floor and you had to take your foot and pull it back up but the clutch wouldnt work. So we thought it was the master cyl. and changed it. Now the clutch works but the pedal releases real slow like it holds pressure on the slave cyl. kinda like the pedal comes up in stages. Today the clutch worked better but still if you pushed the pedal to the floor after 5 times or so it does it again. Any ideas would help me alot THANKS
 
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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From: Formerly Nawlins
Did they kink the hydraulic lines from the master to slave cylinder anywhere during the clutch change?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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no the line going to the slave cyl. is o.k. Is there a check valve in the master cyl. that could be sticking only letting so much pressure, or fluid go out or in?? I dont think it could be the slave cyl. because it happened so sudden and the clutch started working again after we changed the master cyl. It just doesnt want to work right all the time the problem is just intermetant right now. We used 2 containers of fresh brake fluid to bleed it. Is there a certain way I should be doing that? Thanks
 
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 11:59 AM
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From: St Louis
Did you have someone work the clutch peddle while you looked in the resevior to see if any air was coming out of the master? Does it work better if you pump the peddle alot?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 12:23 PM
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If you pump the pedal real fast its worse, but it you let the pedal up slowly most of the time its o.k. I havent tried to see if there is air bubbles in it with someone pushing the pedal yet. Just took the cap off and looked inside to see if any were in the fluid.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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From: St Louis
The procedure I used with my car was to pump the peddle with my hand about 15 times, hold the peddle down while someone opened the bleed screw on the slave and closed it rapidly and started that again. After I was satisfied that clear fluid with no air was coming through, I started pushing back on the slave to see if the master was bled of air. It is a real PITA, and takes a long time to do it as well. I think the 302 has the external instead of the concentric slave. If it is the concentric slave then you really can not do much more than pumping, then holding, then rapidly opening and closing the bleed screw. Did you bench bleed the master before installing it in the truck?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 01:28 PM
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Are you loosing any fluid in the master cylinder?

If not, there is a return spring up under the dash that may have broken. Happened to my truck.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 12:26 AM
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i'll try bleeding it again. so you do have to bleed it like you a brake system? Drove to work tonight and it only acted up one time.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 12:30 AM
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Oh I almost forgot the slave cyl. is the type that bolts to the front of the transmittion. I think its called concentric/ you have to pull the tranny out to change it
 
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 08:44 AM
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From: St Louis
It is sort of like bleeding a brake system, only on a brake system you can use a vacuum pump to help bleed. On the clutch it really does take 2 people to bleed it properly. Also check like someone mentioned above about the return spring. It is also possible to get a bad master cylinder, so hopefully you bought one with a warranty.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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both the slave cyl. and the master cyl. are lifetime warranty. Do you think I should just swap out the master cyl. for another?
 
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