remember that 351W my brother got? it is going into his 1980 bronco. one question: will taking the AIR pump off throw a code? will it give more mileage(less free oxygen in the exhaust) keep in mind, he is using NO cat converter

 

No but I'll play along.

Are you installing the motor with the EFI system? If so you can remove the pump and associated plumbing, but you have to plug the holes in the heads and leave the TAB and TAD solenoids on the motor and electrically connected but with the vacuum lines capped. These are the parts on the bracket next to the coil. There is ZERO performance gain from removing this system, but it will tidy the engine bay. You'll want to keep the EGR, it helps milage.

 

alright, thank you conanski. really? no gain? what does the oxygen sensor read then with the air pump installed or unpluged? just that one question my whole family has about this.

 

On a cold start the computer is running in open loop and ignores the O2 sensor, the thermactor system is designed so it only injects air into the heads before the engine warms up. Once the motor reaches operating temperature the computer goes closed loop and starts taking readings from the O2 sensor, and it then switches the air injection to go either directly into the cat or to atmosphere.

 

Need your input, I'm running a 1990 EFI in my '50 F1 on which I removed the EGR, by welding the return line closed. I also recently removed the air pump, solenoids and all. Today I started the engine, and it idles high, and seems to miss slightly. I have plugged the vacumn lines where the air pump fed ; do I have to re-instal the solenoids to even out the idle, or can the engine be tuned to adjust the idle?

 

So what did you do with the plumbing that is attached to the back of the heads? it should all be removed and the heads plugged.
A better way to block the EGR is to simply sandwich a piece of sheetmetal between the valve and intake, then you can completely remove the tube.