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IS the cycling switch the on located on the dryer? Do i have to take out the evaporator to flush it? I was just going to try to flush it as it sits in the truck.
No, you don't have to remove the evaporator. That's why I said you may have to get creative. Heater hose and clamps work good, you just have to assure ALL of the solvent is out.
Just a note about flush solvent;
I've seen some that is almost like a soap solution. Stay away from this stuff unless you have access to an actual flushing machine. If you bought your solvent at one of the chain parts stores, I think that's what you may have.
Any solvent that you use needs to have a low evaporation point and not leave a residue. Think solvents like toluene, lacquer thinner, alcohol, etc. that evaporate quickly. Lacquer thinner works very well for flushing and is fairly cheap.
Thanks for the help, ill check whats in the can tonight when i get home. Im guessing its some sort of alcohol/solvent or similar b/c its pressurized and said on can wont leave any residue behind.
WOuld it be logical to flush evaporator from top to bottom?
Thanks for the help, ill check whats in the can tonight when i get home. Im guessing its some sort of alcohol/solvent or similar b/c its pressurized and said on can wont leave any residue behind.
WOuld it be logical to flush evaporator from top to bottom?
THX again!
The solvent that you have should be fine. The solvent that I'm thinking of comes in a plastic bottle, IIRC the brand is FJC.
I usually go both ways with the solvent and the drying air on evaporators. That pressurized can should be just the trick for the evaporator if it has a rubber tipped nozzle. There might not be enough for the remaining parts that you are going to reuse so have a quart of thinner on hand for flushing and cleaning the rest of the parts.
As far as dye, when you buy your R134a get 1 can with UV dye and charge it as a liquid (upside down) first. That will make leaks easier to find down the road. Remember, no other additives, boosters or sealers. Just virgin refrigerant or refrigerant with UV dye.
PUlled orfice tube today covered in black goop, im guesssing black death. As i spin compressor i hardly feel a push or a pull so im guessing its shot. IVe replaced all hoses, dryer and condenser. Will buy a new ac compressor but wondering if i can keep evaporator?
PUlled orfice tube today covered in black goop, im guesssing black death. As i spin compressor i hardly feel a push or a pull so im guessing its shot. IVe replaced all hoses, dryer and condenser. Will buy a new ac compressor but wondering if i can keep evaporator?
Ooohh. That's not real "Black Death", but darn sure close enough. All hoses, dryer, condenser, accumulator and compressor. The evaporator, luckily, can be flushed. The orifice tube usually holds back the goop.
Really sorry about your luck Aggie05.
The good news is that you will have a "new" system when you are done.
the original type will be ok, but if you still have a choice get a blue one.
I had been using the blue orifice on conversions, and was talking with my local a/c tech one day, and he advised that on Fords it was best to use the red orifice. I changed my 86 to the red, and sure enough, it worked much better. The truck will cool in hot Texas weather in bumper to bumper traffic. jd
I had been using the blue orifice on conversions, and was talking with my local a/c tech one day, and he advised that on Fords it was best to use the red orifice. I changed my 86 to the red, and sure enough, it worked much better. The truck will cool in hot Texas weather in bumper to bumper traffic. jd
You are correct, I was thinking a bit sideways. The blue o-tube works best in many GM systems and the red one is preferred for most Fords.
You are correct, I was thinking a bit sideways. The blue o-tube works best in many GM systems and the red one is preferred for most Fords.
The differences I noted were quicker cool down, and better cooling at low speeds. My 86 sometimes got too damned cold. The system also seems to be just a bit touchy on the amount of charge. jd