OKay i dont know if its my browser (firefox) but the search feature right now is not working. My 92 2.3 ranger wasnt cooling and i found a leak in the high pressure hose. I replaced it vacuumed out system and recharged with 134. It cooled for about a week and a half. THis morning i heard it kicking on and off on and off, almost like it doesnt have enough freon. I will check the pressure tonight but was curious where some other leaks might be hiding?

After i replaced high pressure hose it held a vacuum for like 20 mins and i assumed there were no leaks.

Just looking for ideas as I noticed it wasnt cooling on the way in to work.
77F 70%humidity here.

 

Today i pulled a vacuum and heard a gurgling sound in the condenser housing, how hard is that to replace? Any steps or guides or pointers if i do end up replacing it?

 

If you don't see any obvious leaks, or oily spots on any of the components,there is a dye that can be introduced into the system when recharging.Then, if it goes warm again,you use a "black light" to look for leaks and they should show up that way.
Good luck!!!

 

I have purchases a UV dye and light and was thinking of doing this but if the leak is in the condenser will i need to take off the shroud to see the UV dye?

 

Possibly, if its leaking there.You may be able to see it thru the grille, or from underneath.

 

So before i start replacing you still advise to recharge with dye and pinpoint the leak 1st?

 

Absolutely,you may save yourself some money in the long run.

 

Last night i noticed the condenser on the passenger side front was all matted with oil. THere was also some fresh looking oil there. IM guessing ill have to replace that.

 

You will also need to replace the accumulator. It contains a drier that protects the AC system. Once the system has been opened up, the drier is likely contaminated with moisture. The humidity in your area is a bit high, which would mean that as long as your system was low on coolant, it was exposed to moisture. Once the desiccant inside the accumulator becomes saturated, it can no longer protect the cooling system and the compressor will be damaged. While you are at it, get a new orifice tube. You can borrow the special tool to remove it from your local parts store.

 

Sure sounds like you need a condenser.Also replace the accumulator/drier like Bear said.

 

OKay i have ordered a condenser and its on the way. I also purchased a dryer and orfice tube.

I bought some flush / cleaning stuff at auto zone and was curious how to flush compressor and evaporator. Does it matter which hose you flush from? The compressor has 2 hoses coming from it a high side and low side im guessing. Which port should i pump the cleaner / air into or can it go either way? Also for the evaporator there is a hose at top and bottom which way should i flush that? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chaz

 

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Sure looks like the culprit.
You cant go wrong with Rock Auto.

 

Still would like some input on how to flush system thanks.

 

To flush the system, you need LOTS of compressed air. You flush each component individually and blow it completely dry inside. Any residual flush solvent WILL damage the compressor. You may have to get creative to flush the evaporator. Replace all of the o-rings on the hose connections and the 2 seals at the compressor manifold. (don't forget the one on the cycling switch fitting).Don't flush through the accumulator, old or new.
You don't flush the compressor with solvent. You add the type of oil that you will be using, turn the compressor a few times, drain, repeat, repeat, and repeat. Drain as much oil as possible out the last time by holding the ports downward and turning the shaft.
As you reassemble the system, spread the recommended amount of oil between the condenser, evaporator and accumulator.

Being a 92, you will be converting to R134a. Stay away from the cheap aluminum Interdynamics conversion fittings, they are terrible for not sealing. Spring for brass fittings from NAPA.
If you've already ordered the o-tube the original type will be ok, but if you still have a choice get a blue one. They work a bit better with R134a.
Once charged to the proper weight, turn the screw between the terminals of the cycling switch counterclockwise 1.25-1.5 turns to drop the evaporator pressure to 26-28psi.
If you find that the cooling wheezes out at idle or low speeds, replace the fan clutch with a new Motorcraft unit. Don't bother with an aftermarket clutch, they just don't move enough air to do the AC much good.

Hope this helps.