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Old May 10, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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a/c problems

I have a 99 f250 sd 6speed manual. My a/c works great at times,but after a long timedriving and then stopping at a red light the ac stops blowing cold.Then when the rpms get up it starts getting cold again when the air gets hot i can idle the engine up to about 2500-3000 and cold air comes at me.And sometimes the ac wont get cold at start up until i get moving.The truck has a new fan clutch.
 
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Old May 10, 2008 | 09:50 AM
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I recently had an intermitten problem with my A/C also.....turned out it was the wires in the plug were loose, the one on the top in front of the compressor. I took it all apart and made sure the connections were better and no problems since then. There is another plug down a bit lower you could check also.
 
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Old May 10, 2008 | 09:55 AM
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You might need to adjust the gap in the compressor clutch. It seems to happen after years of use with a lot of our trucks.

Austin
 
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Old May 10, 2008 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by fordbronco1966
I have a 99 f250 sd 6speed manual. My a/c works great at times,but after a long timedriving and then stopping at a red light the ac stops blowing cold.Then when the rpms get up it starts getting cold again when the air gets hot i can idle the engine up to about 2500-3000 and cold air comes at me.And sometimes the ac wont get cold at start up until i get moving.The truck has a new fan clutch.
glance through this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ttent-a-c.html
 
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:23 PM
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It was the gap!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by fordbronco1966
It was the gap!

Better late then never. lol Glad you got it fixed. I need to do the shim thing too, my gap is looking a little to much.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:30 AM
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a/c clutch gap revisited

This is my thoughts concerning the a/c clutch gap. When the gap gets too large, more voltage is required by the magnet to pull the clutch shoe down. At idle, the alternator output is lower. With the fan and other accessories on, the voltage is not sufficient to do the job. When the speed is raised and voltage increases, the pull gets strong enough to overcome the distance. The ideal gap, per Ford specs, is ~.014-.030'' (measured in 3 places around the clutch). Just enough that the clutch shoe doesn't rub when disengaged.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:34 AM
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Wink

I have a simmiliar problem with my 1997 Thunderbird's a/c execpt I've checked the gap and its good, but a tap on the front of the clutch with a screwdriver handle and it will work for a little while....I'm wondering if my clutch setup is just plain worn out and should be replaced??
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Supercab
I have a simmiliar problem with my 1997 Thunderbird's a/c execpt I've checked the gap and its good, but a tap on the front of the clutch with a screwdriver handle and it will work for a little while....I'm wondering if my clutch setup is just plain worn out and should be replaced??
If there are alot of grooves in the clutch faces, or the magnet is tired, the clutch assembly probably needs to be replaced.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:45 PM
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What if there are no 'shims' but the tappy with the screwdriver still works?

I was asked this today by a gentleman I cross paths with each week. I asked why in the hell he was running the a/c, it's 27 degrees? He says, "defrost, duh..."
 
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 07:44 AM
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Wink

Hooked, Check the above thread by mueckster-(he answered MY post) I think you and I have the same problem, just a plain worn out clutch setup.
 
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