Hi All,
I'm sure that there are at least a few of you out there that share my displeasure in a common problem. You just can't buy the premade lengths of brake line in a length anywhere close to what you need. they are either too short and you have to piece them together with those sloppy looking couplers or they are way too long and you end up bending loops in them to take up the extra length. I need to know if there is anyplace you can buy the type of flairing tool that makes the type of flair that is factory made. The standard flairing tool available at plumbing tool places is not made to do the flair that is on the premade lengths. I have tried using those standard flairing tools and if I am really careful I can do a halfway decent job. I have found that using a bit of heat will soften the steel enough to prevent the line from spliting. A light dressing on a bench grinder also helps. I do enought of this kind of work that I would really benefit from using a better tool that was designed to do the steel line flairs. I think it would be the way to go if it was not too cost prohibitive.

If anyone out there knows of a good source for the tool or device I need let me know.

 

To flare thin wall steel tubing you need a double flaring kit, available where ever GOOD tools are sold, the more expensive the better and will do a perfect job if used according to instructions.

 

How about a source???

 

Dave, Grainger? I found 'Rigid 'a qaulity brand tool, I'm using their tube bender now ..and it's well constructed smooth to operate. As far as a flare tool..I'm using an old unit my Dad gave me, the name is wore off...sorry. I do have a snap-on I use alot, actually it's a bluepoint..sold by snap-on , it works..ok. Either way , you might want to shop around, maybe find a good tool at a flea market or yard sale even...Good Luck!

 

Thanks Mertz,
I'll take a look.

 

By law you have to double flare brake lines, no getting around it.

As stated, any good parts store with have them. They should also be able to sell you a coil of steel brake tube, in a lengths long enough to do a complete run.

 

Snap On / Blue Point. There is a new kind of steel (?) brake tubing that bends with out the spring around it, neat stuff, pre made/flared, just cut and flare one end, less work, at NAPA in Canada.

 

Yep, I'm aware of that. That is the reason I want to get the right tool.

 

Most of the flaring tools, even high priced brand name ones, that clamp the tube in a split block and have a pointed flaring part that slides over the block do a poor job of creating double flares, it's more a matter of getting lucky if you get a good flare. I know I'll get an argument from the lucky ones, but that's the truth.
IMHO there is only one flaring tool that works properly each and every time, it is made by Master Cool. It's expensive @ ~250.00, but then what is your life (and that of your loved ones and innocent bystanders) worth? It can make about any type tubing connection in any size tubing used in automotive work besides brake lines. Sell it or rent it out after you are done to recoup some of the investment.
One hint when flaring tubing: DON'T cut it with a tubing cutter! They crush and work harden the tubing as well as producing knicks and scores that will start cracks. Cut it with a thin cutoff wheel in a dremel type tool, then square, debur and smooth the cut with a fine toothed flat file before starting. Lightly chamfer the inside corner of the end with a countersink cutter used in your fingers. Lube the end of the tube with a drop of light oil if you insist on using one of the cheap tools.

 

Dave,

as mentioned before Rigid makes a good flaring tool... easy to use and nice feel. Plumbing supply houses and auto parts places will have them.. maybe even Home Depot or Lowes

Imperial Eastman is THE flaring tool maker that is the choice of most pro guys
they are available at Sears (sometimes) or HVAC vendors or online

if you want to flare professionally or in competition... here's the deal ... just the sight of this case being opened will make backyard shade tree flaring wanna be's run away crying... I love mine

71475 - Flaring Tool Set Universal Hydraulic


If you buy cheap you won't be pleased. The ridges in the base clamp wear away quickly and let the tube slip... no flare.

Spend a few extra bucks and buy a good name brand, you won't be disappointed... I've got some pics of some in my brake article...

PLUMBING DISC BRAKESON A 53 f-100

tells you some about bending also... another place not to scrimp to save a buck...

later
John

 

As linked above: J71475 - Flaring Tool Set Universal Hydraulic
That's the Mastercool set I recommended.

 

I buy my brake line in 25 ft coils from the likes of Speedway, Jegs, etc. I use the flare tool I bought from Jegs, and it works fine, but you must prepare the line properly. See Ax's post above, that exactly the way I do it. If you use a tubing cutter, you slightly crush the end, and it takes alot of work to prepare it to double flare properly. Use a cutoff wheel or Dremel. Remember, the cut end is going to fold in on itself, and them be pressed by the pointed arbor, creating the sealing surface. A nicely cut end will result in a better flare

 

I purchased my lines from Inline Tube and they were real close to perfect.

 

Hi John,
got no problem with the price. It seemes that about everything of major quality that I buy hits the $300.00 range. If it works and lasts a long time I can see the value in it. I do have a problem spending three bills on a piece of junk. this is why I am asking these questions. Up until now I have not had enough of this work to warrant spending the money.

I do have a few questions for you. The link you sent me does not go into a lot of detail regarding pictures and operation of this tool set. Do you have any links to better documentation? Also, is this the place where you got your's? How does it do the double flair?

I hold a license for refrigeration and air conditioning and I am familiar with Imperial Eastman tools. I have one of their gauge sets. I'm not too trhilled with it though. Having worked as an industrial, commercial, and heavy construction electrician for many years I have had plenty occasion to work with Rigid brand tools, and I don't mean that stuff they sell at Home Depot. They do make superior tools for piping and ridgid conduit work. The question is, how does their's compare to what you have.

I had a quick look at your 53 F-100 brake page. I'll have to look it over again and see if there are any helpfull details I missed. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience.

 

Hey AX,
You're preachin' to the choir on this one... I agree with all of your recomendations regarding the above methods. Tubing cutters are great for copper and the soft SS used in instrumantation work but so far as I'm concerned they have no place in working with high pressure and hard steel applications. the only thing I could ad to your tips is to be sure and clean out all residue fron abrasive cutting opperations. That stuff will migrate down the tubing you are cutting. Once it gets mixed with any oil or other lubricant it is hard to get out with compressed air.