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While attempting to remove a leaking water pump from a 1988 F250, I broke off two rusted bolts in the block. Now what?
Does anyone know just how far down I have to tear the engine in order to tap out the broken bolts? Thanks.
Nitro - Thanks for the tip. Your reference to gears, that's the timing gears right? I guress I might as well do the chain too. Also do you know if the bolts would have snapped off in the timing cover or in the block? Thanks
Yes I ment chain and timing gears. Usually the bolts are broken or corroded in the cover and once you get that off you can get them out of the block ok. I always use anti-seize on the bolts just in case I am the one who has the privilage of doing this again in the future.
Nitro94 - Sounds like you do this for a living. Are the bolts in the block accessable, say with vice grips, or do they have to be drilled out usually? What anti sieze do you recommend? I was considering a Liquit Wrench bath for a couple of days prior to attempting the removal. Thanks for the advice. Jay
Go to Advance Auto and get a can of PB Blaster. It's the best stuff to soak your rusted bolts. Spray it on liberally and let it soak for several hours to let the liquid wick into the threads. Repeat the process at least once and the bolts should come right out.
jlittle- Usually the bolts will break half way thru the timing cover leaving plenty of room to work with vise grips. If you still have the other half of the bolts left it would give you an idea of how much is left in the block. In extreme cases I have had to break the cover off the bolts an get a new one. Parts store can supply you with anti-sieze brand unimportant. Penetrating products will help.
Nitro - I got the timing cover loose now I have to pull the HB to be able to slide the cover off the end of the crank. Got the new water pump painted, first step to reassembly, right?
I also need to change the valve cover gaskets, the passenger side looks kinda hard to get to because of the fuel injection. Any tips on getting to the bolts on that side? Thanks again for the tips.
Valve covers require removal of the intake plenum. No big deal really. Get a plenum, egr to plenum, and throttle body to plemun gasket and remove the vacuum hoses, cables, and wiring terminals. Remove the 7 (I think) bolts holding the plenum to the intake. Lift it off. Doing this from memory so look for items I may not have remembered.
Nitro - Again Thank You for your assistance. I was afraid I would have to remove that monster. Looks like the bolts for that aren't too easy to get to either.
Nitro - Well I got the timing cover off but the one bold that broke off will not come out. I managed to use the two nut method on the bolt that was broken off in the block and finally got it out. I'm going to need a new timing cover, any idea what I can expect to pay?
I'm alittle hesitant to pull the plenum off. I can't even get my hand in there to feel where the bolts on the passenger side are. Anyway thanks again for the help.
Not sure about prices. I don't fill out the job tickets so I don't pay any attention. Plenum is not that bad. If memory serves me correctly there is a plate in the middle of the plenum with four screws. Remove for two bolts in the middle. Two more on each end and one about half way from end bolts to center bolts from each end. If you can do a timing chain you can do valve covers.
Nitro - I'll attempt the timing chain and plenum this weekend. I still haven't id'ed the crank and cam gear marks to allign. One of my biggest fears is getting the timing all screwed up. I have a book and I'm being careful. Later.
Each gear should have a small dot on a tooth. Looks like a center punch mark. They go together with the cam gear mark at 6 o'clock and the crank gear at 12 o'clock. Line up the marks before you remove the chain and put new right back on. You may need a small puller to get the crank gear to move. Good luck.
I took some time off and am now putting things back together.
I removed the old timing chain and sprockets and replaced with a set I got from Autozone. The new set has a single row of teeth while the original has a double row of teeth. Is the one I got a replacement for the original or should I get a double set from Ford? Thanks, jlittle
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