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well i finally got around to doing the injector buzz test with the engine not running this time....that is really cool how that works....yes #8 injector really sounds weak compared to the other 7 injectors...a code came up...P1278...cylinder #8 high to low side open....so what does that mean?
Sounds like you may have a short. The short answer is pull the drivers side valve cover and see if the wiring has been rubbing on something. The long answer is attached.
Sounds like you may have a short. The short answer is pull the drivers side valve cover and see if the wiring has been rubbing on something. The long answer is attached.
wow ...where do i find all of these code answers?
looking through this...do i need this glow plug injector adapter 014-00935 or can i do this test without it...
a couple of weeks ago i did pull the drivers side valve cover and looked close to see if anything was chaffing and didnt see anything...the locking plug inside the valve cover wasnt the greatest so i did the quarter trick so it would lock better....where else would the wire go bad if it wasnt chaffing on anything?
You can get by without the adapter or break out boxes that are designed to make a Ford service tech's life easier. That came from the service manual. You can either buy one or just ask your questions here and someone will usually chime in.
Your problem appears to be between the IDM & the injector. The IDM is in the drivers wheel well. The only connection between them is at the valve cover so testing at the valve cover will tell you if it's a UVCH issue, or the wiring between the VC & IDM.
there is one more connection just under the driverside vc on the outside bottom, that these wires pass thro, from the idm to this large about 25 wire connector with a 10mm bolt in the middle of it, then it goes to all your sensors and vch's just fyi, you can ohm out the wire for #8 + wire from the VCH plug to this large plug, try to narrow down where the short might be, then from the IDM plug to this large plug... I personally just went thro all of this myself only to figure out I have a bad IDM... hope this helps,
there is one more connection just under the driverside vc on the outside bottom, that these wires pass thro, from the idm to this large about 25 wire connector with a 10mm bolt in the middle of it, then it goes to all your sensors and vch's just fyi, you can ohm out the wire for #8 + wire from the VCH plug to this large plug, try to narrow down where the short might be, then from the IDM plug to this large plug... I personally just went thro all of this myself only to figure out I have a bad IDM... hope this helps,
ohmed out #8 just like you said from the VCH plug to the large 25 pin plug then from the 25 pin plug to the IDM plug....0.00 resistance...so to narrow this down ...would it be the IDM?....ithe IDM looks like its been out before since it only had one bolt holding it in place....i shook it to see if i could hear if any water was inside...none and was sealed up very good
Check those wires that Bergeson is talking about really well. They will sometimes rub against the valve cover and wear the wire insulation. This can cause problems as the wire bounces (shorts) against the valve cover, but may not show up with an ohm meter if the wires aren't touching when you test them.
Check those wires that Bergeson is talking about really well. They will sometimes rub against the valve cover and wear the wire insulation. This can cause problems as the wire bounces (shorts) against the valve cover, but may not show up with an ohm meter if the wires aren't touching when you test them.
what is that bare wire thats wraped with aluminum foil....i opened up the harness from the valve cover to the large plug....but i will look very close..thanks
I was having problems with a miss the other week, when I ohm'ed the injectors through the outside valve cover plug they checked out ok. I pulled my driver side cover since when it was scanned they said I had a #4 cyl. miss, all the wires looked fine an the connections all tight. I took electrical plug cleaner and cleaned all the injector and glow plug connections and the large inside plug, then gave them a good coating of dielectric grease, all the plugs had some oil in them. I dont know why ford didnt put rubber gromits on the plugs since they are constantly in oil?? but once I did this truck started right up and has been running great, drove almost 1000 miles after this and not one problem. I couldnt even drive it before because it was missing so bad, so I would give this a try
thanks for any help i can get....i will take that valve cover off again and will do as you did....hope it works ...at this point i will try anything to get this running rite.....i;ve been playing with this since march 11th in my spare time and i am determined to figure it out...just not much spare time
what is that bare wire thats wraped with aluminum foil....
a short to ground waiting to happen. Wires are wrapped in foil for "noise" suppression, but I can't think of an application where it's a bare wire underneath.
make sure you're wiggling & flexing all your connectors when you do this OHM check, to make sure vibration isn't causing the problem pulling a wire apart at a connector, or a connector that's been splayed open due to heat isn't vibrating around loose..
pull your IDM and check the back side of it and see if it has the little baffle in the side of the case... if it doesn't, suspect the IDM; if it does, suspect the injector
another thing to look for is the finish lifting and peeling from the case of the IDM and corrosion setting in underneath.. this is another sign of moisture in the IDM...
If all your OHM checks come out good, I hate to say it but, Dude you got a bad IDM.
and word to the wise, do NOT use an A1Cardone reman unit..
you WILL be doing it again later in the week...
a short to ground waiting to happen. Wires are wrapped in foil for "noise" suppression, but I can't think of an application where it's a bare wire underneath.
make sure you're wiggling & flexing all your connectors when you do this OHM check, to make sure vibration isn't causing the problem pulling a wire apart at a connector, or a connector that's been splayed open due to heat isn't vibrating around loose..
pull your IDM and check the back side of it and see if it has the little baffle in the side of the case... if it doesn't, suspect the IDM; if it does, suspect the injector
another thing to look for is the finish lifting and peeling from the case of the IDM and corrosion setting in underneath.. this is another sign of moisture in the IDM...
If all your OHM checks come out good, I hate to say it but, Dude you got a bad IDM.
and word to the wise, do NOT use an A1Cardone reman unit..
you WILL be doing it again later in the week...
the IDM has a round baffle located top center backside where mounting bracket attaches...no signs of moisture...gray calk looks good...has a ford #IDM120 SAEO...2C24-12B599-AB...7D11-2...7FAA0...*991SD223*....PWB 9172
the bare wire with tin foil is between the valve cover plug harness and the large plug...when i did the buzz test #8 injector was weak...to test the high /low do i pull the plug off the injector to ohm it...positive to wire and negative to ground?...key on for test...2 differant color wires on injector...the high side would be what color and do i measure volts for high side and ohms for low side...to ohm the harness [ i know this is dumb]..positive on one side of wire and negative on the other and should get a 0.00 resistences...right?
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