Every time I see read a post about Robert's truck I look at the gallery and think to myself about liking the "stance" of the truck. I was just wondering what was used to achieve this. I assume it has drop beams in the front, but what all does the front end get to set it where it is? How is the rear done? Also, do you think my 352 is similar enough in weight to your motor to do this?

I started to do this in a pm, but then I thought someone else might like to know this as well. Thanks.

Ps- LOVE the Cragars!

 

I'm pretty sure he put some IFS clip under the front, and as you can see in his pictures, the rear axle was flipped over the springs for the rear.

He's got the 292 also.

But I hope he'll chime in here, I'd like to know the info about his truck as well.

 

Hey fellas, I'm sure glad you guy's like my truck and as I said before the body style along with it being a long bed is what stole my heart.
When I originally got the truck I used it as a work horse hauling pavers, sand, block, deck material (lumber) and just about everything else you can imagine. On a trip to the landfill while at work, (I was a trashman) I saw this beautiful 59 f100 at the scales. After talking with this guy awhile, He introduced me to a friend of his (mechanic) who fixed up this 59 f100 which wound up being a feature in "classic trucks" sometime around 2000. Well anyway between him and I we did the following.
Grafted a Volare front end on I still have about an inch of adjustment left. now keep in mind the 292 had great compression all the way around and I liked the looks of it, so I was keeping it. Headers were made to flow through flowmasters and out the back. the truck was completely re-wired from front to back. The dash was filled in giving it that smooth look, no ash tray, no radio, and no glovebox. The rear had the springs put under and a c-notch was added. Still using same shock perches except they were moved forward to accomodate the c-notch. A 23 gallon gas tank was made to fit between the rails.
I've been fortunate to meet some of the best people who build cool rides. When I was a chebby owner I had my truck also a long bed completely tricked, topped off with a pearl black-cherry paint job. So I met some good body people.
All of these guys I met took the time to teach me what I know I still rely on them from time to time. Now while I'm not always posting on this board I am here researching and reading endless posts on everything I can. I visit junk yards to learn the easiest way to disassemble something then I have to find out how to reassemble it (proper torque). Sorry to end the story so abruptly but I got to go.

Sorry for the endless ramblings but I finally learned to type using three fingers on each hand. That one finger pecking would have taken me a week to type this.
Anyways thanks to all of you on this board for all of your help so far and your kind compliments.

 

I guess I said to much. one reason why I don't post much

 

No- no at all. I was just a little discouraged to hear of the whole front end swap. Not saying it's a bad thing, just little more than I am willing to tackle. The rear I think I can easily handle, although I'd like to see pics. Wonder how much of a drop spindle it would take to get mine there? Or do they even come in different drop amounts?

 

You know cfrives3, if you can handle the rear, you might be able to handle this for the front...

How I lowered My 58 F-100 - THE H.A.M.B.

They don't have drop spindles for these trucks. Even if they did, the most they drop them is like 2".

 

Hey gangstakr, I PM'd this question to you a while ago but you didn't get back to me. Now that we have a question thread on your truck, I figure I'll ask it now.

I can see from the pics that you notched the rear for proper axle clearance, but it looks like the exhaust pipes are still in line with the frame rails, and not above the top of the notch. Wouldn't the axle hit the exhaust pipes instead then?

 

Hey Matt,
You'll need to learn to drive a low rider to understand. If I was hitting bumps and potholes at a speed that would case me to bottom out it's possible that I would hit exhaust. I have about 4 inches of travel at the notch and 2 1/2 inches at the pipe. I have yet to hit the pipes. The 2 1/2" is plenty of travel considering my tire size. I would probably do more damage to body and other components besides the pipe to worry about. So while I'm not driving it like a 4x4, It cruises just fine on the freeway and city streets even with a load on it. My truck will still haul most anything I would like it to, it just looks better doing it. Just my opinion of my truck.
Thanks for asking Matt.

 

Alright, that's all that I was asking. I just wanted to find out if you had enough clearance between the axle and the exhaust pipes...

So really, the notch didn't have to be that big...

Over bumpy roads and potholes, just drive slower. Gotcha.
_____

I have another question:

Are you still running the full leaf pack in the rear? How many leafs are in the pack?

Also, how long have you been driving the truck with it lowered like this?

 

There are 9 leafs per pack.
I've been driving this truck for about five years.

As for the c-notch, You do it once and you do it right. The c-notch was done before I decided what size pipe I was going to run. Not only that your c-notch is not based on your exhaust diameter.
Now just a thought, What if I was to run one inch pipe through glass-packs or straight out the back for that original lowrider whapppaaaaa? Then I would have more travel into the c-notch. You see my options are open.
Best thing to do before you start cutting, hackking, welding and just modifying, have a plan. It helps when others are there to give you advise.

 

You have 9 leafs? I've only got 5, and that's including an extra thick one...

I understand all that about the C-notch. I was just thinking out loud, and I know everything can be altered/modified to make stuff work.

 

I should have said drop beams, my fault. What about dream beams? I swear I have seen them on a 65 and newer trucks. The beams are the same all the way up to 79 aren't they?

That link is for a solid front axle, correct? I have twin I beams and I'd like to keep that if I can. 65 was the first year for the twin I beam if I remember right, that's why I wanna keep em.

 

cfrives3,
AIM and DJM make drop beams for the '65-'79 trucks. If you look at my gallery you can see pics of both sets side by side.

 

Awesome! Forgive the dumb question, but could you tell me what the AIM and DJM stand for? Also are these installed on anything now, and pics of them?

 

I think they're just different companies.