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I purchased a 1995 E-250 with a 5.8L a couple of weeks ago, and the trouble code indicated 311- Thermactor inoperative during KOER bank 1. and 332- EGR flow insufficient. Now the only thing I could find in the book was the thermactor solenoids, and I note that right next to this unit is the EGR solenoid. But I can not find any way to test these units, or what the voltage, or resistance levels for the connectors should be ? I assume it's the harness and a possible bad ground, or to much resistance. Am I off base ? Any help would be greatly appreacated.
332- turned out to be a faulty EGR valve position sensor. And 311- Looks as though it is going to be a dirty MAF sensor, which is also a part of the thermactor system. I will clean the sensor and let ya all know if it works.
And 311- Looks as though it is going to be a dirty MAF sensor, which is also a part of the thermactor system.
No it's not, there only a slim possibility you have a MAF meter, and if you do it will be the large aluminum piece in the air intake hose right beside the air filter box. This sensor measures the air the motor consumes and is very important to engine operation, a fault on this sensor will produce specific codes.
The Thermactor system consists of an air pump, a couple diverter valves, and a pair of solenoids that control the valves via vacuuum pressure. The computer operates the valves electrically and directs air into the heads or cats dependig upon where it is in the operating cycle to improve emissions. A system malfunction could be a result of a broken valve or vacuum line or a malfunctioning solenoid.
Is there a test that can be run on the solinoids, and what should the voltage be for the connector ? 5-7 volts ? I could not find any thing on it in the book. Although it did show the location of the solinoids. And the pump is working just fine. Help would be appricated.
You can test the solenoids for operation by momentarially applying 12v to the signal pin with the other pin grounded.. this is with the electrical connector disconnected from solenoid. Testing for voltage at the solenoid connectors is hit or miss as you would have to do it when the computer is activating the solenoids, and that's not all the time. You also want to verify the vacuum lines between the solenoids and valves are intact and that the solenoids are getting proper vacuum.
Last night I tested the MAP/BARO sensor and the voltage failed to fluctuate when vacuum was changed and applied at different levels. So I will change it out today, to see if it has any relevance to the Thermactor system, and its vacuum. After this the only thing left to check are the lines, and the solinoids themselves. But so far I have been inspecting the lines, and have not noticed any wear or holes ? But I haven't noticed any vacuum either. But it only applies under load, is that correct ? I suppose I could tap in a vacuum gauge and drive around, and see if it comes on ? What do ya think ?
With the engine running, if you disconnect any of the vacuum lines attached directly the intake plenum it should be pulling air all the time, and inserting a gauge here should show vacuum, obviously. Additionally, the system should hold vacuum after the the motor is shut off, there are vacuum resovoirs(juice cans) in the system for this reason. Failure to do so indicates a major leak somewhere.
The Ford MAP sensors output a varying frequency waveform instead of a voltage signal so you can't measure it with a simple DMM, you need one that measures frequencies between 80hz and 160hz or an oscilloscope.
The book said with the key in the on position, and with the engine off, and the electrical connector reconnected, tap into the sign and baro line ? {Unclear on the term listing} and apply vacuum. Using a DVOM you should note a change in the voltage signal as the vacuum is applied and decreased to the sensor, if not, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. I also found another Ford listing for the code 311- EVAP system vacuum cut bypass solenoid malfunction.
Oooops !! Oh well . LMAO~ I recieved a code-12- Unable to increse RPM during test. So I checked and tossed the sensor. And ordered a new one. All based upon the testing procedures listed in the Chiltons guide. Here's hoping it was bad.