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Hey guys, my dad very recently bought an '88 F-250 and it seemed to run fine but now it wont start and we think it's the ignition because it has a starter button hooked up to it. What I'm wondering is which wires I need to bridge in order to start the truck. I was able to figure this out on my Thunderbird for my remote start pretty easily because I could take a multi meter and test the wires with the ignition on but in this case the ignition isn't closing the circuit properly. Any help would be great! We have to get it off his businesses property by tomorrow because they're changing their location..
If turning the key does nothing, you might have a faulty ignition switch or a broken ignition actuator rod.
The switch is located on top of the steering column near the firewall. The easiest way to get at it is to lower the steering column.
If the rod is broken, the parts are still available from Ford, and the install is a pain in the butt...but there are a few good step by steps on this board. Alternatively, you can unbolt the switch, let it hang from the harness and use a small screwdriver to work the switch. I had to do this in my '90 for a couple of months.
If the switch itself is broken, you can replace it at that point.
I'm in the middle of trying to do this too, I have a new ignition and new keys that fit, but my obd2 port isn't working so I can't program them. When I try to turn my key over it won't even turn over (duh), so I ran a switch to both wires on the starter, and when I press the switch on it tries to start, it feels like it SHOULD start, but it just keeps turning over. Any ideas?
when removing wire to shut it off remove the wire that is connected to battery.
don't use this to steal vehicles or karma will get you.
I almost hate to say anything because I could be wrong. Hotwiring with battery to ignition coil may have worked in the 1960s before engine computers. But I don't see how it could possibly work on any vehicle with engine management and fuel injection such as this 1988. All that stuff has to be powered also for engine to run.
I'm in the middle of trying to do this too, I have a new ignition and new keys that fit, but my obd2 port isn't working so I can't program them. When I try to turn my key over it won't even turn over (duh), so I ran a switch to both wires on the starter, and when I press the switch on it tries to start, it feels like it SHOULD start, but it just keeps turning over. Any ideas?
You have hot-wired only the starter; you also need to hot-wire the ignition (Key On). I have this same problem; ignition part of switch is bad so it only cranks, and like you said, seems to want to start. That is because the start circuit temporarily jumps the ignition and supplies power, but as soon as you let go, it dies, because there is no ignition.. Somewhere on this same thread (I thought, maybe not) I read instructions on how to jump the ignition. Yellow is battery power, and red with light green stripe is the ignition (coil, fuel injection, fuel pump, etc.) I have now done this, and it STILL DOESN'T WORK. Apparently that was NOT the ignition wire, so now I have to investigate further. At least now I have my manual ignition switch hooked up and ready to go. Just have to find the right ignition wire. When you have ignition, you should hear the fuel pump (or maybe it is the tank transfer switch) power up and build pressure.