I'm installing a switch to shut off my ignition to not allow thieves to drive my van away when it's parked. It's either that, or I do a switch for the wire that powers the IP FSS.

Does anyone know which wires on a Ford 1988 ignition would be the one that controls the starting of the vehicle?

 

Did some voltage testing.

Here are the wires that had some voltage at some point.






With the Key Off:

• Blue Yellow = 12V
• Black Pink = 12V
• Red White = 12V

Acc:

• Blue Yellow = 12V
• Black Pink = 12V
• Red White = 12V

Key Forward:

• Blue Yellow = 12V
• Red White = 12V
• Black Pink = 77mV

Run:

• Blue Yellow = 12V
• Red White = 12V
• Light Blue = 12V
• Large Blue Wire = 7.6V
• Black Pink = 77mV

I didn't test it with the key in "Start."


I think I figured out the two wires that provide power to the ignition switch: Blue Yellow and Red White. However, I just need to know which one would be best for installing the switch. I didn't expect two wires to be hot.

Hmmmm. I just realized that one must be for the hazard light switch. IDK. I'll keep poking around with the multimeter, but if someone knows the answer, I'd really appreciate it.

 

Well crud. As far as I can tell, that connector only handles the blinker and hazard and horn stuff. Here's a diagram for a similar vehicle.





I'll have to fish around for more connectors that deal with the ignition switch.

 

Better description: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8947784

1) Pink/Black wire Circuit #158 Key warning switch to Buzzer
2) Light Green wire Circuit #511 Comes from Brake light switch
3) Light Blue wire Circuit #44 Comes from Turn signal flasher
4) Orange/Light Blue wire Circuit #5 Goes to RH Rear Turn/Stop Bulb
5) Light Green/Orange wire Circuit #9 Goes to LH Rear Turn/Stop Bulb
6) White/Red wire Circuit #385 Comes from Hazard Flasher
7) Yellow/Light Blue wire Circuit #460 12 volts for Horn Relay
8) White/Purple wire Circuit #296 12 volts from Fuse #6 used for Cruise
control.
9) Dark Blue wire Circuit #1 Comes from output contacts of Horn Relay.
10) White/Light Blue wire Circuit #2 Goes to RH Dash Turn indicator and RH Front Turn Lamp
11) Light Green/White wire Circuit #3 Goes to LH Dash Turn indicator and LH Front turn Lamp

 

Ah.... Now it's making more sense. It's nested up underneath the instrument cluster. This is going to be a bigger project than expected. ugh.

 

If you do mind loosing radio and clock presets. A battery disconnect between starter solenoid and starter would be an easier way to do it. The problem would where to mount it so you could get to it with out taking the dog house off. The FSS kill switch the thrives could run the batteries down. They probably would any way unless they knew how to start an idi. If you were not on the west coast I would say loud alarm and a good 12 gauge or a .45

 

On the connector at the ignition switch you will need to cut the start wire splice your switch to the two ends. You just need a 2 pole on off.

I knew a guy once had a 57 Chevy he had a add a bunch of unlabeled switches. I ask him why all the switches he he reply 1 was start ,1 was ignition, 1 was fuel pump and a couple others were accessories the rest were dummy. Hw was the only one that knew the sequence

 

I'm not going to do a starter relay kill switch. I just want it to shut down the "run" position on the ignition. I want the thief to think the van is just ****ty and won't catch, then he abandons it.

I'm postponing the kill switch project for now. I have too much invested in the van right now for my upcoming 11,000-mile roadtrip next month to risk fiddling with the ignition wiring right now. I'll return to this soon thereafter.

 

i had a 64 falcon that had a hidden mini toggle switch in the ash tray hooked in line with the coil ground wire going to the points.
ashtray out the car would run. ash tray in and no ground for the coil and the car would not run.
best part about this was even if they tried hot wiring the car and hooking 12 volts to the coil, it did no good because the points did not work. and the wires were hidden in the loom casing.
so by simply hooking up a similar hidden switch setup to the fuel shut off the truck will be dead until the switch is flipped, or 12 volts is put to the FSS.

 

I would assume that anyone who is going to steal a 1988 Ford Van with a diesel engine wants it for a very specific purpose and not just for a joy ride. That person is going to know all about a jumper wire to the FSS and a jumper wire to the starter so your kill switch is not going to do any good.
You'd have better luck putting an electric shutoff valve in the fuel line. It will start and maybe run for a couple of minutes and then die. The thief will jump out and run rather than try to "fix" it.

 

Still like the loud alarm and 12 Guage, even if it loaded with rocksalt or bacon bits. 0lus just b 5he sound of the pump stops alot of people

 

I already have a shut-off switch for my e-pump, but the odd thing is, regardless if the fuel pump is "ON" or "OFF" it still starts and runs. I once drove for ten miles down the highway with the e-pump off, and it didn't have an issue. Kinda bummed. I was hoping that would have been a simple shut-off switch.

I'm leaning against putting a fuel switch to the FSS, as you suggested, since anyone with a 3 ft wire could bypass it. But that would be a very dedicated and knowledgeable thief. I doubt anyone would steal this van for the diesel parts, since no one can really tell it's a diesel at first glance (no decals).

However, here in Los Angeles, I am afraid of the increasing homeless population, migrant population, and chop-shop thieves that are taking over the city. You can't drive down Manchester Blvd without seeing hundreds of RV's and vans, that are clearly being lived in. Vans are a sought after item, for a variety of reasons.

Most of those people wouldn't know about the FSS, but they could have a bunch of ford keys (not many were made) or jam a screwdriver in the keyhole to drive way with the van.

I don't have a garage that can contain this 8-ft tall beast, so I need an alternative to a fuel-pump shutoff switch.

 

I would still lean toward a cut out bet ween the starter and solenoid give the reason you want to install a switch.

Something like this hidden, with a relay and hidden switch that only you know about.


You could put close to the end of the starter feed wire and add a wire from the relay to the starter. To start the van you would have to push the switch and turn the key. This would prevent the FSS jumper and screwdriver to start. Even with the screwdriver no power would get to the starter 8nles the relay was energized.

Putting one on the ignition switch would not stop the screwdriver.

 

But wouldn't the best situation would be to run a simple switch thru the "RUN" position of the ignition wiring? This would kill all the electrical throughout the system. Sure the thief could still try to "Start" it, but that would crank without starting. Eventually the batteries would die and he'd just leave, thinking the van is a POS.

Plus, splicing the "RUN" wire from the ignition makes the whole project really easy, cuz it would limit my wiring to just the spot next to the instrument panel and where I hide my switch.

 

If you are just trying to stop JOE DIRT BAG thief, but if it is someone that really wants an IDI van then they would know all the things we know such as jumpering the FSS and the starter relay and busting the key lock