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You start at the top middle, loop the rope around the whole rubber channel where it would seal to the cab. Leave some sticking out to grab hold of.
Get inside the truck, have someone hold it in place from the outside with the rope dangling inside the cab. Keep it snug against the cab and slowly start pulling the rope out of the rubber channel straight towards you.
As you pull the rope out, it pulls the inside rubber lip into place on the cab.
It's kinda hard to visualize, but once you've done one you'll be amazed at how easy it can be.
The only diference in the cabs from 80 to 96 that I can see is the firewall. I have a 95 cab for my 85 and the firewall has some new openings with some old openings closed off. I am still torn between making it work and swaping firewalls, Both are a lot of work.
The only diference in the cabs from 80 to 96 that I can see is the firewall. I have a 95 cab for my 85 and the firewall has some new openings with some old openings closed off. I am still torn between making it work and swaping firewalls, Both are a lot of work.
I do believe that the dash bolts up differently also.......
A sliding rear window swap is something I've been considering for a while on my 86.
I've seen the rope trick demonstrated on TV, but how exactly does one make it work?
FYI and a heads up,
The factory slider uses a different gasket with a wider channel for the glass frame (two tracks wide).
Aftermarket sliding windows are slightly smaller OA with a flange that fits the single pane groove in the regular window gasket.
I use a braided nylon line, like small engine pull starter cord or old fashioned venetian blind cord (about 3/16" dia).
Some silicone spray or white lithium on the gasket helps things along immensely.
1983-1996 Factory Sliding Rear window.
Also the tinting has changed throughout the years. The earlier tints were green in comparison to the newer "smoke" tints.