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I am having a good time. It's not the money. It's almost like therapy working on the old truck. Almost as much fun as hunting. I did some research and found some other simple things to check while i'm replacing the push rods. I thingk the timing issue is the pressing concern then the burning oil.
If you have never done valve seals using a compressor line and fitting. You might be better off using a length of rope in the spark plug hole. When the piston is brought up the rope takes up the space and holds the valve up for you so you can make the repair. Be sure to use some kind of prop to keep the engine from rotating back as the valve will then fall into the cylinder and oh boy.more fun. If you choose to use compressed air "ABSOLUTELY USE A PROP TO RETAIN THE ENGINE ROTATION" serious injury could occur if you fowl that up.
In all honesty I think you just need to get the thing timed and the fuel air mixture set, then run it for a while. If it was getting poor oiling earlier and really good now it's probably just getting past the worn parts and will level off after a lil while. Not improve by any great leap of course but will probably be better after a short time of use.
Usually when using the "air" method, the piston will be pushed to the bottom of stroke, so you don't have to worry about it going anywhere as long as the air is kept up. The rope trick is easier if you don't have an air compressor handy. Just some plain ol rope will work, roll the pison down a touch, start shoving rope in, then roll piston back up top and it will hold valves in place. Don't get crazy with it, as you don't want to cut the rope and leave it in the cylinder. Just a moderate "crush" will work.
You want the old style "umbrella seals", as they will just be a simple replacement. If you get the newer nylon seals, you have to machine the head to make them fit. No can do while on the motor.
Like Bob mentioned...lets work on the running portion before we get too worried about the smoke issue. We need to be able to drive it and make sure everything is good before tearing into that.
nothing on the smoking right now. I have been doing yard work getting ready for spring, my son has soccer, the fish started biting, and bear hunting just started. I think i fixed the timing. I had the 2 and 3 wires mixed up. I was so sure i had it correct that every time i looked at it I didn't really pay attention. I took a few days off and now it works. Now i just have to jump the battery to make sure that was the issue.
runs like a top now. EXCEPT SMOKES! I did notice one thing that i missed before. I left the choke on, and it had the same smell to the smoke just more. I don't know where to look to see the valve seals. I will start driving it and see what happens. I pulled the valve covers and the the rocker assembly is soaked in oil. thank god!
Last edited by reifwj; May 6, 2008 at 10:52 PM.
Reason: update
there's some information on the auto zone website "repair guides" that covers valve seals. some of it is generic but it has pictures which helps me alot in understanding the steps to do stuff.
that part # for felpro umbrella valve seals that's listed here back on page one comes up for '60 352 as well as '70 360.
well, hey that's good news about your truck, fish biting too, yes
I hear they're biting here too, and the escrow/mortgage companies say we cant touch a dime till it's time.. WTF!!??? This is certainly the work of Satan!!
Be advised that when an engine backfires, it puts extra stress on the distributor gear pin that holds it to the shaft. On rare occasions, this pin shears and the distributor gear moves out of alignment at least 1 tooth. This condition can make you engine backfire and jump out of timing. Pull the distributor and check to see if the pin has sheared.
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