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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 04:09 PM
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Exclamation FE390 Rebuilt Questions

This morning I order the Edelbrock RPM intake manifold, Carburetor Perfomer 600 w/electric chocke, and some Hedmans Headers for my 76 F100. I need to buy the pushrods, this engine has the non-adjustable rockers, which pushrods do I need to buy, and can I just go to any autoparts and ask for them.

Second, do I need a spacer between the carburetor and the intake manifold, and if I do need one, what size.

Thanks for all your help.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 05:01 PM
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Kragen®, Checkers®, AutoStoned®, NAPA®,etc.. summitracing.com, falcon globa on ebay //...yada yada..

BUT: you better get the length worked out. Don't assume anything.. get the preload measured and order the right length push rods
 
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 05:34 PM
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Thanks Redmanbob, but how do you measure the preload. Would the ones from summit part number CCA-7833-16 they are from COMP CAMS
 
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 11:08 PM
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As far a compatibilty between the carb and the manifold (since they are both from edelbrock), you don't have to use a spacer. A good one inch spacer, however, can increase your performance. By how much, some of these other guys might have a better idea. Snag one from the junk yard for cheap, clean it up, and see what happens; you might notice an improvement, who knows?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 05:37 AM
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obm, Another use for the spacer is to stop boiling of gas when shut off. Many of us have experienced not being able to restart a hot engine. A 1" phenolic spacer allows the engine to restart like it is supposed to.


John
 
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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That is another good point in using a spacer for more effective heat dissapation away from the carb. I didn't even think of it. I've even seen a piece of sheet metal between the holley four barrel carb and the spacer as the piece of sheet metal was bigger in area than the carb if you were to look straight down on it. It looked kinda goofy, but I wonder how much more effective it was.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 02:08 PM
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Likely a stock set of replacement push rods SHOULD be just fine. Yes, it would be good to make sure you have the proper lifter preload(.060"). Unless you had the machine shop cut ALOT of your head surface, you shouldn't have any problems with stock length pushrods.

You need to install a pair of pushrods, with piston at TDC(compression stroke so both valves are closed), tighten rocker stands down slowly and watch as lifter is compressed. 1/16" compression is all you need. If it bottoms lifter out, then you need shorter pushrods.
 
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Old May 1, 2008 | 02:20 AM
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[quote=jowilker;6096226]obm, Another use for the spacer is to stop boiling of gas when shut off. Many of us have experienced not being able to restart a hot engine. A 1" phenolic spacer allows the engine to restart like it is supposed to.


Do you mean boiling the gas out of the carb bowls?
 
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Old May 1, 2008 | 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Dusto5
Do you mean boiling the gas out of the carb bowls?
Dusto, I will let one of the carb gurus splain where the gas is boiled from. Many of us have experienced shutting off a up to temp engine for 10 min or so and coming back and not being able to restart without grinding the hello out of it.

Adding the spacer allows a starter bump instant fire restart.


John
 
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Old May 1, 2008 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
Likely a stock set of replacement push rods SHOULD be just fine. Yes, it would be good to make sure you have the proper lifter preload(.060").
It would be better to REALLY know

Haven't we heard from enough people with bent pushrods or wiped cam lobes?
 
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Old May 1, 2008 | 07:05 PM
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The vehicle sits w/hot engine and heat soaks into everything in the engine bay. Today's 'gasoline' is more volatile and thus has a lower boiling point (it is actual formulated for tailpipe emission levels more than anything), so the fuel percolates in the bowls when this occurs. Go to start it and the motor has a 'hello' of a time turning over; the phenolic plastic acts as a heat barrier. I imagine the combo of a phenolic spacer and an old ThermoQuad would be fairly good at remeding this problem!
 
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Old May 1, 2008 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 7d2 Custom
The vehicle sits w/hot engine and heat soaks into everything in the engine bay. Today's 'gasoline' is more volatile and thus has a lower boiling point (it is actual formulated for tailpipe emission levels more than anything), so the fuel percolates in the bowls when this occurs. Go to start it and the motor has a 'hello' of a time turning over; the phenolic plastic acts as a heat barrier. I imagine the combo of a phenolic spacer and an old ThermoQuad would be fairly good at remeding this problem!

i dont know about more volatile, ive heard that the old gasoline you couldnt stand ten feet away from a gas can with a lit cigarette and it not catch on fire, now you have to nearly make contact with the gas
 
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Old May 2, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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Fuel perculation with heat soak wasn't nearly the problem it is now back when these rigs were fairly young. Todays vehicles all run SMPFI; the much higher fuel pressure compensates for the reformulated fuels' lower BP/FP. I don't ever play with matches or gasoline (not together..just seperately.in the bedroom.trying to spice up the marriage).
 
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Old May 2, 2008 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by crescentwrencher
i dont know about more volatile, ive heard that the old gasoline you couldnt stand ten feet away from a gas can with a lit cigarette and it not catch on fire, now you have to nearly make contact with the gas
I think that is an old wives tale personally. I have fueled many vehicles with a lit cigarette in hand. I have also seen a lit cigarette thrown into a bucket of gas and it go out.

So somethings can get twisted with time.


John
 
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Old May 2, 2008 | 10:04 PM
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Thats due to being above or below the explosive limits. Overly rich or overly lean
 
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