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Do you have to have one? PVC valve?
I am going to have a flathead rebuilt for my truck and the engine currently doesn't have one (its missing). any specific info concerning draft tubes or alternates would be greatly appreciated.
Positive, works all the time, not just when you are moving over a certain speed.
No frothy mess dripping on your driveway.
No oily haze around the breather.
You don't have to have one, but the draft tube is designed to pull fumes out of the motor. So, if you don't have one, you have some additional risk of internal sludge/goo buildup, or, wherever he tube attached, a mess there.
ross { albuq} had a list of parts ya need to put a pcv in . i got it somewhere but like so many other things it's been on hold for a freakin' coons age now .................. the pcv would be much better , although the people walking up to me telling me my truck has a bad exhaust leek and it's smoking is kinda funny ................
I ran a hose from the draft tube to an original ford carb spacer with the pcv attachment. And an inline pcv check valve. It needed a step down barb fitting. It's on a '60 OHV.
i plan on running a tube through under my intake and through the spare vent in the fuel pump to one of my carbs and burn off the gasses through the motor again
i plan on running a tube through under my intake and through the spare vent in the fuel pump to one of my carbs and burn off the gasses through the motor again
You need the PCV valve to regulate this and prevent sucking oil directly in, and not have the connection just be a big vacuum leak. Look at pcv set ups and duplicate one.
my flatty parts distributor does it to al his motors that he builds and he nevers has any problems. Hes a reputable guys who has been cited as a source for various hot rod magazine articles
I just got a price quote for the rebuild and machine work, Ouch!
Josh - you've kept us in suspense long enough!!! What was the quote? I'm curious, because I've debated building my "spare" block, just to have a spare...
About $3600 which includes new timing gear upgraded cam, valves, align hone (which may not be neccesary),hardened valve inserts, can't rmember everything else but that was pretty much a worst case scenario, so hopefully it would actually end up being a lot less than that, all done and said. oh and it didn't include reassembly (just the valve assembly) I am still going to get a second quote for the same options and see how they compare.
I just need to remove the valves and cam at this point then I will get it in and magnafluxed to make sure its rebuildable. then it may sit a while until I find some $
Wow, that IS a lot...more than I figured, when I found out my block is probably good. You have gone a little further than I would have, but, when I got there, I know I would have gone ahead, and done it right...guess my $1200 rebuilt motor IS a good deal!!