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Not sure where this is coming from. As of late I have a very audible "exhaust tick" on start up, after about 1 minute of warm up it disappears and doesn't come back until the next start up after it has cooled down. It sounds like it's coming from the passengers side. I've checked the exhaust manifold studs looking for rusted or broken off ones, but they all look good. Is there another area in the exhaust I need to be looking at? I just feel it at has to be coming from the exhaust area because after it warms up and swells (I assume) it goes away. What do you guys think? Thanks, Steve
See if your exhaust manifold gasket is snapped between the two rear ports on the right side of the engine. Mine seems to have a problem with this corner of the manifold and when the gasket snaps between those two ports I get a leak shortly after.
You described exactly what my '99 was doing. I brought it into a shop to check the manifold studs. Several looked fine but were only holding on by a tiny thread. Of the 20 studs, 6 came out in one piece, 4 came out in 2 pieces and the remaining 10 had to be drilled out and helicoiled. You could see how almost every port was leaking on the gasket and the manifold.
If you have to keep replacing gaskets I'd ask if you had the manifolds milled so the gasket had a fresh surface when they were reinstalled. If not, that may be why you have had to do the job several times. I'm getting excited, my truck is supposed to be ready tomorrow after 2 weeks in the shop.
It looks like the head on the right hand side in the rear is discolored from exhaust leak around that port. I do believe that is where my exhaust leak noise is coming from the first minute or so on warm up. Should I start putting PB blaster on the studs now for near future removal? Were you able to remove all studs without them breaking? Thanks, Steve
You definately want to soak them. The problem my shop ran into was that there was very little of the threads on the stub left at the nut. When they put a wrench to them they just snapped off. Looking at the broken stud and nut you could see how all that was attaching the nut to the stud was less than 1/16". In other words, the diameter of the stud at the nut was acutally down to less than 1/16"! I was lucky that there was enough of the stud left on 10 of them (after the manifolds were removed) that they could get a wrench on them and remove them without drilling. Even though, drilling 10 was a big chore. Not a lot of room. of course the ones that needed drilling were mostly the hard to reach ones too. They actually discharged the AC and removed the compressor so they could have a better shot at them. I thought removing the inner fender would give them better access but on my truck it wasn't a big help. Ugly, ugly, nasty job.