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The early castings had the same "depth" on the bottom of the borre the difference was that they raised the deck hieght of the 71 and later blocks to reduce the compression for emissions purposes (from 10.300 on the DOVE and earlier to 10.310 for some of the early D1VE blocks then to 10.322 from about 72 on) there is enough material to bring the later blocks down to the 10.300 original deck hieght.
All D9TE blocks are external balance (429/460 has a AB suffix, 370 had a BB suffix after the casting number) all the rest of the blocks are internal balance as setup from the factory. little point of reference physically you can put the later model external balance cranks into a early block as a drop in, but the early internal balance cranks will NOT fit into a D9TE block without clearencing.
Originally Posted by DirtStripHero
I understand what you mean tank. When I went to buy a new starter, I told the guy at Autozone that I needed a starter for a 460. He gave me a 2 bolt starter. Mine is a 3 bolt design. He told me that the 3 bolt was in cars while the 2 bolt was in trucks. The 2 bolt looked normal, while the 3 bolt had that Chevy-like solenoid.
Are you sure that 3 bolt starter setup is on a 460? that sure sounds like a MEL 462 engine in an early Linclon with 3 bolts.
Very good and helpful info all of you! The engines are in a '77, and two '78 Lincoln Mark VIIIs or whatever the coupe was. I have arranged to buy all three, and I've gotten all three to run before I decided to buy them. One fired right up and had only been parked for a year or so with a blown tranny, so I'll swap it right into the truck right away. The other two took some ether, and smoked a bit so I'd like to keep one of those and build it up over the summer and swap it in this next winter while the truck is parked. The other I'll sell to get my money back for all three, and then some I'm sure! I bought all 3 motors for $300 since the cars were lined up for the crusher at the local salvage yard! If scrap weren't $200 a ton, I would've got 'em for half that two months ago! Damn iron shortages!
I do know that the later model truck starters had a siliniod on them and this is considered an upgrade by guys running a lot of compression because those are gear reduction starters. I know at least 3 people running the 90s model truck starters on engines pushing 13:1 compression and they work great. But those are all 2 bolt starters. I have several C6 transmissions for these and haven't ever seen one setup for a 3 bolt pattern which would be the transmission that would have the bolt pattern not the engine, nor have i ever seen a block plate with 3 bolt holes from behind a 429/460 so this is interesting to me.
Sorry Monsterbaby you were right. I got our projects mixed up. The 3 bolt starter was on a 462. We are also toying with my buddys Mercury Park Lane and we had the starter go on it at the same time as my truck. Sorry for the confusion.
Monsterbaby: 13:1 on a 90's engine seems nice. How did they fo that? As far as i know, the 90's are EFI, and have low compression heads...
As i've bought such an engine, i'm curious in ways to raise the compression...
thanks.
Dutch I didn't say the 90s engines were 13:1, I said that guys were using the 90s starters on engines that were built to 13:1 BIG difference. I am talking about purpose built race motors using factory starters, not factory motors.
Not sure what your question actually is. Yes most aftermarket starters do go at least 13:1 compression. But I was just talking about the factory starters and mentioned that the later model truck starters had the solenoid mounted on the starter and being gear driven are actually really strong and are being used by guys running 13:1 thats all I was saying.
But since you seem to be curious and anticipation of whats next the reason why to run one of the factory late model truck starters on a race engine is the aftermarket starters run around $250 and up, and have NO warranty. You can buy the lifetime warranty starter from napa for a 92 F350 with a 7.5 and use it on a race motor for around $150 and never have to pay for one again.
dutchlincoln79, it's pretty easy to increase compression, just install flattop pistons and deck your block. That'll get your compression up easy enough. I wouldn't increase compression though if the motor's in a daily driver.
Did the 460s in the cars have different cams than the 460s in trucks to move the powerband into higher rpms for streetability or does anyone know? I'll probably put a lower rpm cam in it anyways, since it'll be only used for towing, just wanting to know for future reference I guess.
Thanks.
Thing is: i actually would have it tore down again to make these mods, as its just completely build up..
Now, changing pistons to flattops wouldn't be such a drag, but surfacing the deck means completely tear down.
Other problem, as far as i know of, is that the engine is .020 overbored now, and i can only find flattops with a overbore of .030 and up... So that really would be a problem, as i'd have to start all over again...
Main fuel however, will be LPG, which is the main reason why i want to increase CR anyway...
Why wouldn't you increase CR on a daily driver? There is a torquier cam in it indeed...
Increasing compression means you'll have to run a hotter fuel, and all my experience with high compression engines is that they don't seem to last as long. There isn't anything "bolt-on" you could do to increase compression, aside from taking your heads off and having them decked. How many valves does a truck 460 have? I noticed on these lincoln 460s I bought that they have 4 valves per cylinder. Well, the air cleaner says 460 - 4V so I'm guessing thats what it means.