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Winch bracket weld and 115V welder

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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 06:46 AM
  #1  
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Winch bracket weld and 115V welder

So I've got everything for my winch cut and figured out, only I am working with a miller 115V mig welder. Even if I double and triple the weld beads I am told it will not hold 10,000 pounds of pulling force and that I should Arc weld everything. 1/4 inch thick square tubing. What are your thoughts?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 09:09 AM
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turn that buzz box up as hot as it will go and burn it in. run triple pases and linger at all the high stress points. you will not be able to burn through that thick of metal so go real slow! i think you will be fine.

-cutts-
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 09:41 AM
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Why not just tack it all together and find a friend that has the right welder ?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Nitronic
So I've got everything for my winch cut and figured out, only I am working with a miller 115V mig welder. Even if I double and triple the weld beads I am told it will not hold 10,000 pounds of pulling force and that I should Arc weld everything. 1/4 inch thick square tubing. What are your thoughts?
Fishman is right. You won't burn through 1/4 inch metal with your welder. What I would do is grind a bevel in the metal to assure I get good penetration all the way around. Take your time and do a good job.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 10:29 AM
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x2 you should be alright with good prep and a good weld
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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What model Miller? With a good bevel, and multiple passes, you SHOULD be ok, but if it's in question, get someone with a bigger welder to do it. That is alot of stress on it.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 01:16 PM
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imho, Any 120v <140 amp welder is only good for fillet welds on1/8 wall material.

> Why not just tack it all together and find a friend that has the right welder ?

That is what I would do or find someone on CL that will do it for $50-$100.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 02:51 PM
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I teach welding and my sugestion is to tack it up and have it welded with a 220 machine and I would still have the person weld atleast 3 passes so that it would get good penatration mig welding will be fine but I would weld it with a 7018 on a stick welder .
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 05:36 PM
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Although it is possible to weld everything with my welder, there is still doubt that I will have with it, so I'm going to tack it and get someone to arc weld everything. Thank you for the suggestions it helped me decide to go the extra distance and do it right. Thank you.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 09:04 PM
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where do you live? i'd be more than happy to burn some metal if you are close by! I have a MM 210 that i know will have no problem!

-cutts-
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fishmanndotcom
where do you live? i'd be more than happy to burn some metal if you are close by! I have a MM 210 that i know will have no problem!

-cutts-
yeah, same here......if your in the central FL area i'll burn them in for you.....(lincoln 255)
 
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 06:52 AM
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His profile says NJ.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rbloodhound
His profile says NJ.
well i can still offer cant I? I mean maybe he wants to drive down to GA and hang out with someone COOL!


j/k (kinda)


-cutts-
 
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 05:52 PM
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I would HIGHLY recommend what the others are saying. Tack it and find a 220V or 440V welder to do the finish work. Most towns have a local weld/repair shop that may only charge $20 since you did all the prep work.
My experience on this issue comes welding a "pull" ring for my grandpa's International 504 tractor (row crop not utility). Anyway, the tractor has mounting holes on the front for weights. I got a piece of 1/2" plate and drilled holes for mounting to frame, 4 each side. I then used a piece of 1/2 x 2.5" bar stock bent into a rough V-shape. Put a 10,000 pound D-ring in and welded it at work with 440V 3 phase Miller running 0.052 wire. I triple passed both ends of the bar stock. Needless to say, the welds broke one day trying to pull the tractor out of the mud with the neighbors MFWD 8430.
Moral of the story, tack it and let a larger machine do the welding.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by stryder
I would HIGHLY recommend what the others are saying. Tack it and find a 220V or 440V welder to do the finish work. Most towns have a local weld/repair shop that may only charge $20 since you did all the prep work.
My experience on this issue comes welding a "pull" ring for my grandpa's International 504 tractor (row crop not utility). Anyway, the tractor has mounting holes on the front for weights. I got a piece of 1/2" plate and drilled holes for mounting to frame, 4 each side. I then used a piece of 1/2 x 2.5" bar stock bent into a rough V-shape. Put a 10,000 pound D-ring in and welded it at work with 440V 3 phase Miller running 0.052 wire. I triple passed both ends of the bar stock. Needless to say, the welds broke one day trying to pull the tractor out of the mud with the neighbors MFWD 8430.
Moral of the story, tack it and let a larger machine do the welding.
I got someone with a 240 amp stick who is taking the job. I told him I want around 10K pulling force he says it should hold up.


Originally Posted by quadzjr
yeah, same here......if your in the central FL area i'll burn them in for you.....(lincoln 255)
Thank you for the offer but I'm in western NJ lol

Originally Posted by fishmanndotcom
where do you live? i'd be more than happy to burn some metal if you are close by! I have a MM 210 that i know will have no problem!

-cutts-
I would take you up on the offer but I'm just a little far away lol
 
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