i have an 89 3.0 manual. shorty.

just pulled codes.

85 - Canister Purge circuit failure
21 -ECT out of Self-Test range MAP/BARO out of self test range

im not a genius about cars or anything...im 18 and this is my first car and my dad is helping me fix it...so. any help would be appreciated.

-Mmxchamp

 

21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range -

I am not sure where you got that a code 21 has to do with the MAP? it just deals with the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. This usually idicates that the sensor needs to be replaced. I am not sure where it is on the 3.0L but I believe that it is located on the right of the water pump around there. The only way to fix this is to replace.

<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=2 width="95%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>85</TD><TD>O,R</TD><TD>Canister Purge Solenoid
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

There is a Carbon Cannister that catchs the fumes from the gas tank that could be clogged. Try venting it out, it looks like a coffee can on the drivers side from looking underneath. Otherwise you will need to replace. If you just chuck it, you will still have the code, but it should not bother driveablility. This is mainly for emmisions.

 

ok great thanks. hopefully ill be able to find where everything is...i probably wont be able to finish work this weekend...have to go back down to LA for college. thanks for the help

 

It's O.K. you dont have to be a genius to fix this.

The purge flow soleniod can probably be fixed. If you follow the vacuum line from the cannister (usually located under the airfilter box),it will lead to a small can with 2 hoses plugged into it. This is the valve which is supposed to open when the engine warms up & engine revs rise above about 1500rpm. It can get plugged with carbon dust & will stick. Take it off & spray carb cleaner down the ports while shaking it around or gently blow air into the ports. Spray until the carb solvent comes out clean. If you connect a battery charger to it, the ports should be open. They will close when no voltage is present. If this seems fine then unplug the vacuum lines & make sure they are clean (high pressure air is best for this). Unplug the electrical plug & connect a small test bulb or a voltmeter across the terminals (don't allow the pins to touch). When the engine revs to 1500rpm's the bulb should come on within a short while, if it does not then you could have an electrical problem but this is rare. 90% of the time either the hoses are plugged or the solenoid is stuck.
If yours has another component ahead of the solenoid it will be the purge flow sensor, this can also fail but not sure if your engine has this. Good news is that these parts are relatively cheap & easy to access.

ATB Aeroman.

 

ok....I am now back from college and just saw gas prices for the first time in 9 months. wow. I am not looking forward to filling up. .

But on to the van. I replaced the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor and the temperature gauge on the dash now works. But...it goes from below the Cold mark to right on the C.....any thoughts?

On another note, I am hoping to replace the clutch this weekend because it slips pretty bad. Has anyone here done it before and do you have any tips that will make my life easier?

Thanks.

 

Replace the thermostat, the engine is overcooling. Overcooling will cause poor fuel economy and carbon deposits.

 

the ECT is a 2 wire sensor that feeds the engine computer

the Dash Temp gauge sender is the 1 wire sender

which did you replace?

most Aero Temp gauges read on the low side.

replace the throw out bearing and pilot bushing at same time as clutch.
get the kit, comes with all you need to replace
<img src="http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=200271&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/RhinoPac/07-054.jpg"><br />
rough up the flywheel face with 80 grit sand paper on a block and wipe clean with acetone to clean off all grease.

do not get any finger prints or grease on the new clutch disc, pressure plate or flywheel face

 

I win!

I replaced the thermostat, and sure enough it was broken. Started her up and got to see the temp gauge move for the first time in my life. It was exciting.


at 96_4wdr -
I replaced the 1 wire sender, that sends the information to the dash temp. I am gonna drive her for a few days and recheck error codes to see if i still get the same code. If i do, I will replace the 2 wire sensor.

I did notice my coolant is pretty rusty....not lots of large particles but just a red color....should i worry about it?

 

yes, flush the system and change the coolant.
red color means block and heads are rusting

 

The coolant should be replaced every year.

 

So i now have the transmission off, and am replacing the clutch. I flushed the coolant a few times, it still came out rusty, so im gonna flush it some more once the clutch is replaced.

I am going to replace the master cylinder, slave cylinder, flywheel, and everything in the clutch set. currently waiting on parts to arrive.

Im also considering replacing/repairing driver side exhaust manifold. Theres a noticeable crack that i figure i should probably take care of now that i have the exhaust off and the car off the ground. What do you think the best option is? replace? repair?

 

junkyard dog is the cheapest.
most break from broken broken motor mounts, exhaust pipe hangers or flex pipe replaced by solid.
don't waste the time trying to weld. won't hold for long

look for a Ranger at junke yard for flywheel. lots of manuals in them

flywheel face can be lathe turned to smooth and even up unless the gouges are too deep

 

What do you guys think about replacing the left side exhaust manifold with one from a ranger and adding flex pipe in to the exhaust before the O2 sensor? will the manifold from the ranger fit without hitting anything?