Ignition switch fail?
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Silver City, NM
Ignition switch fail?
Hey guys. My ignition switch has been acting weird for a year or so - it still turns on but you can move it forward and back from the "run" position without doing anything. When I turn it off and take the key out I have to jiggle it a little bit to make it stop dinging at me. I just drove about 100 miles to a friend's house and when I went to leave the car wouldn't start. It would turn over fine but when you stopped pushing the key forward it would kill power to the gauges and the engine would die. I finally got it started but the turn signals and fan didn't work. Apparently the lock cylinders do wear out, a lot of you have replaced them. Is this what I need to do?
Could I just put a switch in the car that bypasses the lock cylinder to power the accesories and then use the lock cylinder to start the car? Which wires do I need to access for this?
Could I just put a switch in the car that bypasses the lock cylinder to power the accesories and then use the lock cylinder to start the car? Which wires do I need to access for this?
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Ignition switch troubles
My assumption is that it is the lock mechanism that is the issue and not wiring to it that might be intermittant.
I had trouble with the ignition switch getting very sloppy and wouldn't always turns easily. I went to Ebay and got a new one for around $25.00 or so. I also searched this forum to get directions as to how to remove the lock mechanism. All is well now. The key is now different from the door locks, but I had a new key cut with BOTH sets of grooves, so now one key still does it all.
I wouldn't NOT recommend long term bypassing of the lock functions with other switches wired to do the same thing. Could it work? sure, but for all the potential troubles you could be creating in doing this (wrong wires & shorts), I would replace the switch.
94 Aero 3L 2WD Extended
I had trouble with the ignition switch getting very sloppy and wouldn't always turns easily. I went to Ebay and got a new one for around $25.00 or so. I also searched this forum to get directions as to how to remove the lock mechanism. All is well now. The key is now different from the door locks, but I had a new key cut with BOTH sets of grooves, so now one key still does it all.
I wouldn't NOT recommend long term bypassing of the lock functions with other switches wired to do the same thing. Could it work? sure, but for all the potential troubles you could be creating in doing this (wrong wires & shorts), I would replace the switch.
94 Aero 3L 2WD Extended
Last edited by Patiodadio; Nov 6, 2010 at 08:45 PM. Reason: forgot vehicle detail
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Silver City, NM
but seriously, thanks for the advice. If its not the wiring, i guess a new cylinder for $14 will last until the engine dies.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Silver City, NM
k so i went and got a new lock cylinder and put it in. it had the same problem - I couldn't get it to stay running unless I held the key past the "run" position. i tried just turning the ignition with a screwdriver and it did the same thing. So I'm back to either buying a new ignition switch or making my own bypass that gives power to whatever its supposed to. Anyone have some advice/wiring diagrams? Driving back from the auto store was fun....I held the key forward the whole time. then shifted and steered with my other hand. fun stuff.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,432
Likes: 7
Just buy a new switch. They are cheap, and they just plug right in. If that doesn't fix the problem the issue is with the cylinder lock mechanism. Just for the record, I let the pros do mine because they can make it use the same key as everything else. Having just one key is a lot nicer than having to carry two. Its possible to switch the tumblers yourself, but only tackle that if you feel confident in your ability to do that kind of work.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
I have been trying to attach two jpg pictures (smaller than 220K each)for the last half hour using the albums functions as described in the "Albums and Pictures" instructions located under the "User CP" tab. I might not have the right permissions or whatever? These are Ign Sw Schematics (two sheets) of how the ignition switch is connected to the rest of the wiring.
I have an original Ford Aero 94 Electrical and Troubleshooting Manual that was bought on Ebay for $15.00 and that info is thorough.
I can send to your email site providing that it is permissable to share that info here.
I have an original Ford Aero 94 Electrical and Troubleshooting Manual that was bought on Ebay for $15.00 and that info is thorough.
I can send to your email site providing that it is permissable to share that info here.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Silver City, NM
Hey patio, i PMed you my email. If you could send me the diagrams that would be awesome. I kind of like the idea of having a switch. I'll have to think about doing that vs. changing the switch.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Silver City, NM
weird. I took the plastic covering off of the steering column and was in the process of taking the male part of the ignition switch off when the whole thing fell out of the metal plate attached to the steering column. I put it back in and now everything works normally. the whole switch does seem a bit loose in the metal bracket. I'm still wary/scared that it will stop working again though...
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Silver City, NM
apparently mine wasnt shorted or anything; the switch somehow got loose. I put a zip tie on it and hopefully it stays there. Even though the lock cylinder wasn't the problem I'll leave the new one in there - the old one was kinda loose and you could turn it without the key sometimes (not enough to start the car, but still not a good thing)
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
OK I am late to this thread and the OP probably already has his problem solved, but I will put in my two cents worth in the event it helps anyone else.
First off I am a locksmith and I am intimately familiar with Fords ignition locks and the problems they might have, so I will start with the lock cylinder issues that one might encounter. Up until 95 Ford used what we locksmiths refer to as the 10 cut system.
The most common problem with these ignition locks was "loose ears". This is where the ears come loose from the lock plug and will rotate from their intended position.
If this is not too bad it can be repaired, no parts required.
If a new cylinder is required or desired one can put in a new cylinder by turning the key to the on position and depressing the retainer and slipping in a new one.
Doing it that way will mean you have two keys. But there is more. To keep one key, if the correct part number is obtained then it is just a matter of having your locksmith cut the new keys with the door cuts and the new keys will now work both the door and the ignition.
The locksmith might also have uncoded ignitions that can be keyed to your existing key.
To get the right part first check the price with your local locksmith. Quite often his price for the part might be a bit lower than other options. If you don't like his price see if he can tell you what the depth of the cut 6 spaces from the tip is. Here you have 5 possibilities 1-5.
Perhaps now I will explain how things work. Your door locks have 6 tumblers that correspond to the 6 cuts nearest the head of the key, and the ignition has 6 tumblers that use the 6 cuts nearest the tip of the key. This means that the two cuts in the middle are common.
Fords replacement solution was to drop one of the two common tumblers from the replacement ignition and then you only need to choose one of 5 part numbers and cut the new keys to match the first 4 cuts on the old key and you are back to one key.
If you have the key codes this is a simple matter. The code for your ignition/door key will be something like FA 000 C 0000 here the letter C designates that you have a 3 cut in the 6th position.
If you look at the offerings from Rock Auto, the Motocraft ignition part numbers will indicate A,B,C,D, or E. If you have an A you are lucky as you can use the cheap aftermarket cylinders and (the quality is OK on these, the only thing I have ever noticed is the chrome might not be as shiny as the originals.) still use one key.
If your switch is bad, you might want to replace it. I had a Mercury Topaz with a boogered switch and I had got lazy and just lived with the thing. One night on the way to the coffee shop, the switch lost contact and the engine died going down the freeway. I reached down and jiggled the key and when the ignition came back on it backfired and the pressure from the backfire blew off the line from the smog pump the the cat. Now I got a major exhaust leak.
When I was driving home, with the very noisy car, I was just exiting the freeway and the diaphragm inside the brake booster smoked from the exhaust leak and I lost power brakes and had to really stand on the pedal to stop at the bottom of the ramp.
There is not much room to work in the Tempo so changing out the booster was a real PITA as well as an expense I could have avoided just by fixing the little switch in a timely manner.
OK I will stop my rambling here. If anyone wants the scoop on the newer style 96 up locks I will be happy to give a few pointers.
First off I am a locksmith and I am intimately familiar with Fords ignition locks and the problems they might have, so I will start with the lock cylinder issues that one might encounter. Up until 95 Ford used what we locksmiths refer to as the 10 cut system.
The most common problem with these ignition locks was "loose ears". This is where the ears come loose from the lock plug and will rotate from their intended position.
If this is not too bad it can be repaired, no parts required.
If a new cylinder is required or desired one can put in a new cylinder by turning the key to the on position and depressing the retainer and slipping in a new one.
Doing it that way will mean you have two keys. But there is more. To keep one key, if the correct part number is obtained then it is just a matter of having your locksmith cut the new keys with the door cuts and the new keys will now work both the door and the ignition.
The locksmith might also have uncoded ignitions that can be keyed to your existing key.
To get the right part first check the price with your local locksmith. Quite often his price for the part might be a bit lower than other options. If you don't like his price see if he can tell you what the depth of the cut 6 spaces from the tip is. Here you have 5 possibilities 1-5.
Perhaps now I will explain how things work. Your door locks have 6 tumblers that correspond to the 6 cuts nearest the head of the key, and the ignition has 6 tumblers that use the 6 cuts nearest the tip of the key. This means that the two cuts in the middle are common.
Fords replacement solution was to drop one of the two common tumblers from the replacement ignition and then you only need to choose one of 5 part numbers and cut the new keys to match the first 4 cuts on the old key and you are back to one key.
If you have the key codes this is a simple matter. The code for your ignition/door key will be something like FA 000 C 0000 here the letter C designates that you have a 3 cut in the 6th position.
If you look at the offerings from Rock Auto, the Motocraft ignition part numbers will indicate A,B,C,D, or E. If you have an A you are lucky as you can use the cheap aftermarket cylinders and (the quality is OK on these, the only thing I have ever noticed is the chrome might not be as shiny as the originals.) still use one key.
If your switch is bad, you might want to replace it. I had a Mercury Topaz with a boogered switch and I had got lazy and just lived with the thing. One night on the way to the coffee shop, the switch lost contact and the engine died going down the freeway. I reached down and jiggled the key and when the ignition came back on it backfired and the pressure from the backfire blew off the line from the smog pump the the cat. Now I got a major exhaust leak.
When I was driving home, with the very noisy car, I was just exiting the freeway and the diaphragm inside the brake booster smoked from the exhaust leak and I lost power brakes and had to really stand on the pedal to stop at the bottom of the ramp.
There is not much room to work in the Tempo so changing out the booster was a real PITA as well as an expense I could have avoided just by fixing the little switch in a timely manner.
OK I will stop my rambling here. If anyone wants the scoop on the newer style 96 up locks I will be happy to give a few pointers.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Silver City, NM
zombie thread, back from the dead!!
I ended up putting 3 zipties on the switch last november, and haven't had any problems since. I took the new key and the old key into a local locksmith, and for $10 got 2 new keys that work with the new ignition switch and the old doors.
I ended up putting 3 zipties on the switch last november, and haven't had any problems since. I took the new key and the old key into a local locksmith, and for $10 got 2 new keys that work with the new ignition switch and the old doors.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
