Just wanted to thank whoever it was that posted he was going to add "EGR cleaning" to his regular preventative maintenance. I can't recall who it was, but I will track down the post after awhile.

I am now in this camp a whole lot sooner than I thought I would be!

I recently (within the last 5000 or so miles) finished a few mods that i think are important for reliability (assuming you have not already blocked off your EGR valve and cooler).

• First and foremost, I had the dealership update all the computer strategies (this includes a better idle strategy among other things)
• Second, I plan to idle a lot less in the winter than I did this past winter
• Third I added a ccv filter (even though some say this isn't necessary, I am glad I did it).

Getting to the point ......................... I decided that even though I am only at 28,000 miles, I would pull and clean my EGR valve. Actually I have a spare so I removed the original one from the truck and installed the spare. I can now take my time in cleaning the one I just pulled out.

I really didn't expect it to be too bad since I didn't think that I had idled the truck too much, I have not had any bad fuel yet (knock on wood - but I do add 2-3% bio every tank), I hadn't seen any signs of poor operation, I do not have oil consumption, I use Stanadyne, and I occaisionally "drive it like I stole it". Actually, it has been running GREAT w/ fuel economy around 18 mpg driving apprx 50 miles to and from work.

Even so, the EGR valve was terrible and almost as bad as any I have seen in previously posted pictures. I did not take pictures of the intake manifold, but it was pretty bad also. What I was disappointed in was that the build-up was not dry soot, it was oily and moist. Not moist with water, but moist w/ oily residue (I will post a picture tomorrow).

As everyone else has posted, pulling it was a PITB but thanks to all the previous posts, I got it done fairly quickly. I first tried pulling it right after driving (all components were hot). I had it rotated and was pulling up from the tabs w/ wire and a section of heater hose for a handle. It finally "popped out" after cooling down a bit.

After installing the new valve, I took it for a 50 mile drive. Didn't notice any change in performance, but I sure am glad the intake and the valve are clean (for now). I plan on doing this same job in another 30,000 miles, so it will be interesting to see if it is in the same condition. Ultimately, I will eliminate the EGR system, but only when I decide to install an SCT.

Now my question (I was expecting dry soot and found oily residue):

What is it that causes some to have the oily residue while others have dry soot????

Hopefully idling less, the new computer flashes and the ccv reroute/filter will help in the future!

FORD TSB - Coking (carbon) Deposits in Turbo and/or EGR Valve:
Coking deposits are usually a build up of unburned fuel or oil in the exhaust system and related components (valves, turbo, EGR valve). This can be caused by poor fuel quality, overfueling/leaking injectors, idling for excessive periods of time (especially in cold ambient temperatures), low engine operating temperatures, injection timing (calibration) or oil consumption. Unburned fuel usually appears as white smoke, but over time the coking condition can result in excessive black smoke. Coking depositis can plug the EBP sensor tube, foul the EBP sensor, cause the EGR valve to stick open, block the EGR cooler, plug the MAP (boost) sensor hose, or cause the variable turbo vanes to stick open (no power/boost) or closed (excessive backpressure, black smoke, popping noise, bucking). The cause of the coking issue should be identified before replacing parts to prevent reoccurance. If poor fuel is suspected, use Stanadyne Performance or Motorcraft PM-17-A Cetane Boost. TSB 06-4-12, 06-23-16.

 

i just cleaned mine at 40000km and i found an oil/tar mix on my egr valve. i do drive short distances every day and i idled during the winter. i just got the new flash and i hope to see improvements.

 

bis

I used a 4 ft bar for leverage and pryed very gently and the egr popped up without much fanfare. I used the alt bracket as a fulcrum point. Just a thought for future reference

 

I cleaned mine a couple of weeks ago. It was cleaned 8,000 miles ago by the dealer. I noticed the bottom half of the valve had dry soot and the upper half had some sticky wet oily stuff on it. I looked in the intake manifold and there was some more oily sticky goop in there. I used various sizes of pipe cleaners with a vacuum cleaner and managed to get almost all of it out of the manifold. I don't let it idle more than 5 minutes in the mornings to let the engine warm up before I take off. I don't let the rpm's go over 2,000 until water and oil temp reach at least 160 degrees. Why would the bottom half of the egr valve be dry and the top half stickey?

 

Bottom half is exhaust, top half is intake with CDR emissions.

 

w_
Are you sure?? - a previous explanation that I was given (along w/ a diagram)showed the intake on top AND on bottom. The exhaust gas being recirculated came from the middle section. This design was used so that there would be equal pressure acting on the top and bottom of the valve from the exhaust. This way high boost should not force the EGR valve to move (this being why simply unplugging the EGR valve when it is closed SHOULD work to eliminate the exhaust recycle).

I am just going by what I was told (although now I think there is an explanation in the 6.0L Bible I will look up).

Look forward to learning something new every day!

Edit -

here is the link to the picture I was thinking about.
Page 37: Air Management System

 

Nope, I'm not sure. I should have clarified my last post by saying that was just a guess...

I thought I recalled when looking at it the other day (sticking my finger down the egr valve hole and feeling around) that the bottom plenum was from the EGR cooler and top plenum would be air from the intake. I didn't notice 3 different levels to the intake, as you mentioned.

I probably didn't look at it close enough, but it's not hard to figure out. Just pull the intake plenum out of the truck and take a look.

 

Definately 3 levels. I found the link, I just can't get it to work yet. The diagram clearly shows the middle section and upper and lower sections.

Assuming this is all correct, this still does not explain the question about the sticky oily residue on top. BTW - mine was EXACTLY this same way!!


This link should work:
Page 37: Air Management System

 

Good Q. Don't know.