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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 08:37 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by bobbytnm
I agree, It a great system and easy to install.....and its all Ford. I think Ford started using in somewere around 75 or 76 on pretty much everything

Bobby
If that is the case, then the 83 F-100 which is my dodor truck, should already have this system. Maybe I don't need it because I already have it. No???
 
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 08:47 PM
  #47  
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I don't think so if its a variable venturi system. I think they tried controlling the spark advance with that system.

I believe what you need is the ignition system from a 1980 and older vehicle. Don't quote me on that though as I've wiped out those brain cells somewhere along the line.....lol

Bobby
 
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 09:20 PM
  #48  
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I think 83 is that "funky" year where Mr Ford tried to make the carb act like fuel injection, same as a lot of companies that year....really messed up idea.
That being said you may be ok with the 83 stuff. Look for the Duraspark module on the fender should have a 4 pin connector and a 2 pin connector on it. The distributor also has a 3 pin connector on it that has its wires going to the module.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #49  
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ring-help.html Reading this thread may help. At the end is a nice alternative.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:15 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by havi
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ring-help.html Reading this thread may help. At the end is a nice alternative.

OK, now I am confused. It looks as thougn I better just stop asking questions and do some research. But all the same, thanks to all that have tried to help an old fart out here.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 07:47 AM
  #51  
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Question

Originally Posted by sparky
I always grab the complete system off cars I scrap. Really simple to install, runs great. You can buy the parts at any Parts Store if you so desire. Require a module, aka Duraspark box, matching distributor, and a wire harness from the dizzy to the module, which you can make it isnt that hard. One power wire hot when key in run position to red wire on module and one wire hot when key in start, I usually tap off the "I" terminal of the start relay, to the white wire of the module. The white wire retards the timing for better starts and is optional.
Very neat, very simple system.
Hey Sparky, a question for you. I was told to tie the red and white wires together and to connect them to a key hot?? If the white wire is to retard the timing for starting (kind of like a compression release on an old Harley) Then what to do you really do with the white wire if you want it to work, and should I disconnect the white from the red? This is on another project truck and it dont start really well?? I thought it was the ignition switch, cause it acted like it wasnt getting enough power while cranking. So I put a toggle switch on the two wires to keep them hot while cranking, it worked, but is probably wrong?

Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 08:50 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Truxx1956
Hey Sparky, a question for you. I was told to tie the red and white wires together and to connect them to a key hot?? If the white wire is to retard the timing for starting (kind of like a compression release on an old Harley) Then what to do you really do with the white wire if you want it to work, and should I disconnect the white from the red? This is on another project truck and it dont start really well?? I thought it was the ignition switch, cause it acted like it wasnt getting enough power while cranking. So I put a toggle switch on the two wires to keep them hot while cranking, it worked, but is probably wrong?

Thanks!
Yes disconnect the white from the red, then hook the white to the "I" terminal of the start relay. This terminal sends out 12 volts only when the relay is closed.................. I am not to sure how the module works internally but I am sure it is some kind of electronic forward bias on the flux capacitor that modifys the signal to the dizzy ground causing the timing to be retarded....... on another neat side note it works quite well with a nitrous system...... send 12 volts to the white wire when the nitrous is being fed to the engine and viola more oommph and less chance of detonation, aka spark ping
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 08:55 AM
  #53  
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This diagram shows how a stock system is wired........... I hope it makes sense.....

http://therangerstation.com/tech_lib...parkwiring.GIF
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 12:14 PM
  #54  
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Talking

Thanks Sparky!! I think I understand now. I'll try as soon as I get away from this albatross I am working on right now.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 12:45 PM
  #55  
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Oh make sure you hook the red wire to a switched wire, no power when key off, otherwise the module is powered all the time.
Another note try to avoid hooking it to the ballast resistor circuit, wrong side of resistor won't give you the full 12 volts to the module.
It is just easier IMHO to find a switched 12 volt wire or add one
 
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 06:23 PM
  #56  
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Dave,

Don't let it overwhelm you, its really not that bad. Once you start doing some of the research and actaully have some parts in front of you things will all fall into place

Bobby
 
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