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So this is a continuation from my last thread, but its more specific now:
Ive got the white smoke issue narrowed down to two things that could be wrong: Injectors and the IP.
I tried to mess with the timing a little bit. It was retarded about 1.5 ticks, so I advanced it a little (to center), and then a little more (1.5 ticks advanced), to no avail really. Still a lot of white smoke. Some of those bolts on the pump can really be buggers to get at huh?
My question is... Is there any way possible to eliminate either the injectors or the IP as the source of the problem, or at least make a more educated guess? I want to avoid buying both, if possible. I can't get the Injectors pressure-tested, because all of the shops around here won't/can't do it...
I had the same problem. After a lot of reading, I thought that I might have bad injectors so I replaced them all along with the return fuel lines and injector caps. It didn't fix the problem and I move out of town. The truck sat for 6 years until I just recently got the time to work on it again. I replaced the injector pump and it runs like new.
Not saying it's you IP. Just sharing my experience.
Have you tested for air in the fuel lines yet..........
Have ever done the opening of the fuel lines at the injector 1/2+ turn to see if the injector(s) off line have a noticeable effect on the engine......
Haven't tried that. Might be my next step. I read that these injectors usually go out in groups though, and its rare that one just calls it quits, but I'll try it for good measure.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Does the white smoke smell like raw fuel?
If I had to choose between fuel and sweet, I would say its definitely fuel, and besides, I'm not loosing any coolant...
There isn't any rattle that stops after the engine warms up and the idle slows down.
Injectors have more than 50k on them, at least, and they are painted gray and say "made in Italy" on them. The IP is stock. Truck has 180K on it.
The timing mark (before I messed with it) was about 1.5 ticks to the drivers side, but I moved it around a little to see if anything magical would happen. Its dead center right now.
Move the IP timing mark about one width of the timing line to the passenger side of the mark on the IP drive cover.
And make all adjustments, then retighten all the bolt before you start the engine.
No moving the IP while the engine is running.
If the timing advance is still working, you want a slight rattle sound when the timing advance solenoid is energised.
The rattle shoud go away when the timing advance turns off.
You can use a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the rear timing advance connection on the drivers side of the IP and see if the RPM picks up just a little and the engine sound changes with a warm engine.
If the sound and RPM change, the advance is probably still working.
At todays prices for both new injectors and fuel, a new set of injectors may pay for themselves in a very few months if you drive it much.
If the injectors are grey, they have as many miles on them as the engine does, 180K is time for new ones.
The white smoke may be late timing, and it may also be leaking injectors that are not sealing when they pop closed.