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Leo, just keep in mind that if you haven't solved what caused the problem...it will happen to you again...at the most inopportune time. I burned thru about 10 of those fuses before finally finding the problem...the same problem that pressureman/Terry indicates above.
Here is a diagram that may help you if/when fuse blows again. If you have a tilt sterring wheel and moving it up and down regularly you just may have a chaffed wire under the shroud.
If anyone’s still around on this post, is the wire that’s causing the issues coming from the ignition? I only ask because someone said somthing about a bare wire around the shifter and I have manual and am having this similar issue with a slight smell of hot electrical. I haven’t had a chance to check fuses so I’m not sure it’s the same issue or not yet.
If anyone’s still around on this post, is the wire that’s causing the issues coming from the ignition? I only ask because someone said somthing about a bare wire around the shifter and I have manual and am having this similar issue with a slight smell of hot electrical. I haven’t had a chance to check fuses so I’m not sure it’s the same issue or not yet.
I am also having this issue with a late '00 f350. And also a manual tranny and tcase, so no chaffed OD wire on the shifter. So far I have replaced every relay in the two fuse panels, tore apart the under dash fuse panel and all was clean and shiny with no corrosion. I took apart the cluster and checked all the solders like problems on the newer models. Behind the radio are two relay boxes. One has two relays and a flasher, the other has four relays. I can't find anywhere what these are to. When the gauges and cluster quit, if I just keep shifting gears until I get around ten miles an hour, the door locks go up and down repeatedly by themselves. Any insight anybody?
I too just recently had a similar issue. I had pressed the overdrive button and all my gauges went out, no throttle but engine idles fine. After idling back home and pulling things apart I found the wire in the steering column going to the OD button had a bare spot, shorted out and blew a fuse. Taped the wire, didn’t have any fresh liquid tape, replaced the fuse and life is good.
I too just recently had a similar issue. I had pressed the overdrive button and all my gauges went out, no throttle but engine idles fine. After idling back home and pulling things apart I found the wire in the steering column going to the OD button had a bare spot, shorted out and blew a fuse. Taped the wire, didn’t have any fresh liquid tape, replaced the fuse and life is good.
Aubie, be aware that the insulation is broke creating more stress on the wires themselves. Black tape and liquid tape are a temporary fix in your situation. The new shifter is around $50 I believe and well worth the peace of mind. Michael's and my trucks are manual trannys so there is no OD button. Michael Archer, I just found my issue. I originally checked voltage and continuity through the fuse, but with an intermittent problem that got ruled out but ended up being the issue. The fuse for the wipers, ever since I bought the truck, had a brass connector shoved in with the fuse for some sort of accessory I never had. I always left it because the fuse was loose without it. When playing with the fuses again tonight I accidentally wiggled fuse 19 under the dash, then the door chimed and the gauges "reset". So I wiggled it some more and got the problem to show at my command. I removed the fuse block with the GEM attached still. I had to remove the master cylinder linkage from the clutch and shove the clutch to the floor (it will stay there without the master attached) to get the fuse box and GEM out. Take a picture of your fuses and relays, remove them, and starting from the left with a couple small screw drivers you can pull off the cover that blocks you from the female sockets the fuses plug into. Using a small pick you can hook and remove those sockets and carefully bend the internal tabs back to make a tight connection. A dental pick works very very well for this. If fuse 19 sockets look good, then check relay 5 I believe. It is the bottom relay. Relays are cheap so if in doubt, replace it. While you are in there you might as well go ahead and make sure that all are good and tight. You already spent the time to take the thing out. I have seen other weird electrical problems from water and/or corrosion inside the fuse box that may be worth your while to check out too. Pull out those sockets and look for colors other than silver, especially by shining a light where the socket plug into the other end.
Aubie, be aware that the insulation is broke creating more stress on the wires themselves. Black tape and liquid tape are a temporary fix in your situation. The new shifter is around $50 I believe and well worth the peace of mind. Michael's and my trucks are manual trannys so there is no OD button. Michael Archer, I just found my issue. I originally checked voltage and continuity through the fuse, but with an intermittent problem that got ruled out but ended up being the issue. The fuse for the wipers, ever since I bought the truck, had a brass connector shoved in with the fuse for some sort of accessory I never had. I always left it because the fuse was loose without it. When playing with the fuses again tonight I accidentally wiggled fuse 19 under the dash, then the door chimed and the gauges "reset". So I wiggled it some more and got the problem to show at my command. I removed the fuse block with the GEM attached still. I had to remove the master cylinder linkage from the clutch and shove the clutch to the floor (it will stay there without the master attached) to get the fuse box and GEM out. Take a picture of your fuses and relays, remove them, and starting from the left with a couple small screw drivers you can pull off the cover that blocks you from the female sockets the fuses plug into. Using a small pick you can hook and remove those sockets and carefully bend the internal tabs back to make a tight connection. A dental pick works very very well for this. If fuse 19 sockets look good, then check relay 5 I believe. It is the bottom relay. Relays are cheap so if in doubt, replace it. While you are in there you might as well go ahead and make sure that all are good and tight. You already spent the time to take the thing out. I have seen other weird electrical problems from water and/or corrosion inside the fuse box that may be worth your while to check out too. Pull out those sockets and look for colors other than silver, especially by shining a light where the socket plug into the other end.
The fix and $50 shifter saved me much angst. Thank you.
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