When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I got a fairly straight '59 F series I drug home from an auction ($CHEAP$ ), I got it running , Im told its a 223 cid; any info on this engine, I know little about them, seems to be low geared !
223c.i. I-6, "Mileage Maker Six": 1954-1965, Industial applications '67: bore 3.625 X stroke 3.6
Chain driven cam, distributor in front right, '54-'60 used 7/16" Head Bolts, '61-'67 used 1/2" head bolts, '54-'59 2 nuts holding down valve cover, '60-'67 8 bolts holding down valve cover, '63-'64 Police Interceptor & Special Taxicab engines used a gear driven cam.
Found in light trucks & cars, tractors & industrial applications, Found in Ford model 6000 gas tractors: Found in DIVCO trucks as the "F" series motor to '65(?)
'55 block & intake painted yellow, valve cover silver: '57-'58 block & intake painted red, valve cover black: '59-'60 block & intake painted black, valve cover red: '63-'67 painted same as 170 Special c.i. I-6
Door codes; cars- '54-'59: A, '60-'64: V, trucks- -'64: J
Four main bearing engine, Holley visa bowl single barrel carb, valve clearence I believe was .019, late model had a mechanial zero lash a rocker arm set up. Overall a very reliable engine, only problem I know of was a problem with timing chains wearing and getting noisey. I owned two one in a 59 f100 which I bought cheap because they thought it had a burnt valve, but it was adjusted to tight and one in a 56 sedan. Never had a bit of problem with either. Drove the truck 14 years and the car 8. kotzy
with high mileage and wear on the rear main, there were many that broke the crank, usually at an angle on the rear main journal
that was the only common problem I know of............I had one do that in a '59 P/U
just put a crank kit in while engine still in the truck
be very careful with the 7/16 head bolts, when re-using, at least one will break just before the spec. torque
not very good oiling to the rocker arm shaft, usually had to be replaced on a rebuild
I had the truck for about 10 years, sold it about 20 years ago, and still see it running
(I guess the rebuild I did worked ok)
btw, always had trouble with the Holley 1 bbl, made an adapter and ran a small 2 bbl Rochester of and old 283 chevy............ran great
The ONLY reason for Oiling Blockage was Because the Owners were NOT maintaining the engine Properly w/ Regular Oil Changes.
As long as you Regularly Maintain the 223c.i. I-6, You will Not have a blockage problem.
I know this is an old post but I have been reading all that I can find on the 223 engine, as I have one tore down in the garage. Newer oil is better than the old stuff too, so with regular maint. things should be okay! The 1960 223 that I am working on is worn out over 0.050 on the crank main journals. Now I have a really cool paper weight! I have a 63 223 that I am now intending to take down and see if the crank will work for me. NumbersDummy was kind enough to look up the numbers for me and said that there were diferent part numbers for 54-60 vs 61-64, with regard to crank, bearings, block,etc... however, when reading the specs. they measure the same. I guess you can't know untill you try!
I too am rebuilding an early 223 for my 54 F100. The block is at a machine shop being bored as cylinder taper was excessive. I am concerned about breaking a head bolt as noted below. Other than making sure both threads are clean, what can I do to prevent? I don't recall seeing any aftermarket harder headbolts out there. Also, I will be buying a master rebuild kit. On line I see they are available from Greenbay Parts World, RPM Rons Precision Machine and Performance Auto Parts. Would you fellas have experience dealing with any of these suppliers?
Thanks
Bob