service engine light on
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 323
Likes: 1
From: new paltz ny
service engine light on
well a while ago when it was raining this light came on...it ran like it was falling on its face....was recommended here to use dioelectric grease on the cam postion sensor plug...did all the sensors with the grease...nothing...changes the cam position sensor...nothing...changed the exhaust back pressure sensor and new tube and cleaned out exhaust manifold before installing ...nothing...new fuel filter...nothing....nothing meaning still running bad....went to garage to pull codes...no codes came up....engine service light only comes on when engine is running...does anyone have any ideas of am i going to the dreeded ford dealer to get this straightened out???.....HELP PLEASE!!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Where exactly did you get the truck scanned for codes? Not all scanners will pick up the codes for these engines. If the light stays on it should have a code stored.
Can you describe running bad a little better? Do you mean it sounds / feels like not all your cylinders are firing? If so you may have a loose UVCH plug or some chaffed wires. If you have an ohm meter you can test this by unplugging the 9 pin connector at each valve cover.
The connector at the valve cover has a plug on both the inside and the outside. The one on the inside is usually the one that comes loose. You can disconnect the outside plug and ohm the wires for resistance to determine which side needs to come off. The valve cover gasket is re-usable.
The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.
Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.
To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms
Here's a link with pictures so you can see what it is you're looking for with the meter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...or-wiring.html
Can you describe running bad a little better? Do you mean it sounds / feels like not all your cylinders are firing? If so you may have a loose UVCH plug or some chaffed wires. If you have an ohm meter you can test this by unplugging the 9 pin connector at each valve cover.
The connector at the valve cover has a plug on both the inside and the outside. The one on the inside is usually the one that comes loose. You can disconnect the outside plug and ohm the wires for resistance to determine which side needs to come off. The valve cover gasket is re-usable.
The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.
Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.
To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms
Here's a link with pictures so you can see what it is you're looking for with the meter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...or-wiring.html
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
Need to find a garage with a better code reader, one that is designed for our trucks. The average run of the mill reader will not read PSD codes. If the light is on, there is a code. Give a little better description of how it is running now.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
This has happened 3 times today. I'm thinking the stars must be aligned just right or some other nonsense.
But I'll take what I can get.
But I'll take what I can get.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 323
Likes: 1
From: new paltz ny
Where exactly did you get the truck scanned for codes? Not all scanners will pick up the codes for these engines. If the light stays on it should have a code stored.
Can you describe running bad a little better? Do you mean it sounds / feels like not all your cylinders are firing? If so you may have a loose UVCH plug or some chaffed wires. If you have an ohm meter you can test this by unplugging the 9 pin connector at each valve cover.
The connector at the valve cover has a plug on both the inside and the outside. The one on the inside is usually the one that comes loose. You can disconnect the outside plug and ohm the wires for resistance to determine which side needs to come off. The valve cover gasket is re-usable.
The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.
Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.
To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms
Here's a link with pictures so you can see what it is you're looking for with the meter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...or-wiring.html
Can you describe running bad a little better? Do you mean it sounds / feels like not all your cylinders are firing? If so you may have a loose UVCH plug or some chaffed wires. If you have an ohm meter you can test this by unplugging the 9 pin connector at each valve cover.
The connector at the valve cover has a plug on both the inside and the outside. The one on the inside is usually the one that comes loose. You can disconnect the outside plug and ohm the wires for resistance to determine which side needs to come off. The valve cover gasket is re-usable.
The 9-pin plug is wired as follows:
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM. Do Not pierce the wires to test.
Test between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms.
To check glow plugs Test between "G" and battery ground. Should be between 0.6 and 2.0 Ohms
Here's a link with pictures so you can see what it is you're looking for with the meter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...or-wiring.html
just as you discribed....not running on all cylinders...i have to do as you say and test the ohms with a tester...the garage said he had all the updated code reader but maybe he thinks it can read psd...i have to go and talk to him when i pick it up....i can buy a ohm tester at radioshack ...right??.....thanks for your help
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
just as you discribed....not running on all cylinders...i have to do as you say and test the ohms with a tester...the garage said he had all the updated code reader but maybe he thinks it can read psd...i have to go and talk to him when i pick it up....i can buy a ohm tester at radioshack ...right??.....thanks for your help
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
You can get an ohm meter just about anywhere. Radio shack, auto parts store, home depot, etc. Most multi-meters have an ohm setting.
You can also do as Barry suggested if you think it is related to the raining. If it's the windshield leaking you may need to remove (unscrew) the under dash fuse panel to inspect the back of it to look for moisture. You can also inspect the drivers front wheel well liner and fender liner under the hood for any cracks or holes. Your IDM is located inside there and if it gets wet it could cause problems.
Keep us informed of what you find.
You can also do as Barry suggested if you think it is related to the raining. If it's the windshield leaking you may need to remove (unscrew) the under dash fuse panel to inspect the back of it to look for moisture. You can also inspect the drivers front wheel well liner and fender liner under the hood for any cracks or holes. Your IDM is located inside there and if it gets wet it could cause problems.
Keep us informed of what you find.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 323
Likes: 1
From: new paltz ny
there wasnt any water leaking in through the windshield but after reading that post with the wire chaffing on the push rod and the wire harness connector coming unplugged under the valve cover ...it sounds like thats where the problem is....wow you guys are great...thanks for everything
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 323
Likes: 1
From: new paltz ny
so what am i in for when i unbolt the valve covers....is there slack in the harness to get the harness unplugged to get the valve covers off...also how much would it cost for these harnesses or a ballpark figure to have a garage install them...is there a web site to buy it?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
The valve cover will lift off and leave the harness on the head so no worries there. The hardest part of pulling the valve covers is just getting to them. You may just have a loose plug and no chaffed wires. You can make a shim, I've even seen one made out of a quarter, to keep it plugged in. If you need a new harness they're cheaper from an International dealer then they are from Ford.
Have you tried the Ohm meter yet? No point in pulling off the wrong valve cover.
Have you tried the Ohm meter yet? No point in pulling off the wrong valve cover.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 323
Likes: 1
From: new paltz ny
The valve cover will lift off and leave the harness on the head so no worries there. The hardest part of pulling the valve covers is just getting to them. You may just have a loose plug and no chaffed wires. You can make a shim, I've even seen one made out of a quarter, to keep it plugged in. If you need a new harness they're cheaper from an International dealer then they are from Ford.
Have you tried the Ohm meter yet? No point in pulling off the wrong valve cover.
Have you tried the Ohm meter yet? No point in pulling off the wrong valve cover.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Just test the pins that stay in the valve cover. If you want to check the unplugged wires you'll need to dig into your drivers fender to find you IDM and check for continuity, but that's not a common problem.